What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[ZionXIX]

You should check for rust at the bolt points where the heat sheild above the catalytic converter bolts into the inner footwells. Mine seems to spill over and drain into those holes and one of them rusted out pretty bad. My indie said it's a problem he sees alot with these cars too.

Texas has gifted me with +10 rust resistance.

Wow, that's a lot of water! Clean out your cowl drains and make sure there aren't a bunch of leaves and junk in the cabin filter/inlet (not sure if your car has a filter).

I keep the cowl very clean and I added a cabin filter last year. I also thoroughly vacuumed inside the housing when I replaced the fan and resistor. What ever is stuck in the drain has been there for years. Im not about to tear the dash apart to clean it until I'm ready to replace the evaporator.

[Sveedy]

Replaced fuel pump with a DW200. Had to do a little modifying of the suspension basket, but other than that easy pezzy.

[Sufbug]

Not today but yesterday....

1998 volvo wagon.....


------new oil cap rubber
-------lube hood latch
-------------blow out the sunroof drains
------find exhaust leak---patched with smuutch lol
---- trw rack new rubber boots
------check all brakes 12 mm front. 5 mm rear
-------balance tires
-------mount and clean wheel speed sensor from pass
-----sunroof doesnt work ..lubed and operated.
-----moonroof doesnt work lubed and operated
-------winter button is intermittent...loosened up
------new oil filter with magnet on drain plug

[Sufbug]

Also was putting on a new cv boot on the pass side, and broke the bearing race. Don't ask....but now gonna call fcp and see how quick I can get an axle/cv joint/or cv bearing race.... Grrrrr

[BlackBart]

Cleaning the AC drain hose made no difference. Barely poking through with a zip tie unleashes the floodgates. I think something is trapped in there acting like a 1 way valve. The zip tie has zero resistance going into the drain but is very difficult to remove. Not sure if that is normal.

My fix involved placing the zip tie in the drain hose and leaving it there. So far today its never worked better.

That IS a lot of water.

It's curious why that zip tie is working. There's not some sort of flapper valve in there, is there? And why would there be? So as others have said, it could be a big leaf and a bunch of goo, and you're just pushing it out of the way temporarily.

Do you have any way to put some air pressure in there - reverse - and push all that out? Compressor or a necked down shop-vac hose on reverse (blow). Or even scrub it with a small plumbing snake and pull it out, then rinse.

[abscate]

Got the fuel filter off and found the fuel leak onGrunhilde.

Now she can move under her own power. She is fighting for her life vs a part out

[j-dawg]

You should check for rust at the bolt points where the heat sheild above the catalytic converter bolts into the inner footwells. Mine seems to spill over and drain into those holes and one of them rusted out pretty bad. My indie said it's a problem he sees alot with these cars too.

Never heard of anyone else with this issue, but I'm glad I'm not alone! I have a little spot of surface rust here, not nearly as bad as in your picture but it's the only apparent casualty of the car's life in the Rust Belt. The rest of the car is so straight despite 15 years around the Northeast and Midwest that even a little speckle of brown startled me.

[ZionXIX]

My fix involved placing the zip tie in the drain hose and leaving it there. So far today its never worked better.

That IS a lot of water.

It's curious why that zip tie is working. There's not some sort of flapper valve in there, is there? And why would there be? So as others have said, it could be a big leaf and a bunch of goo, and you're just pushing it out of the way temporarily.

Do you have any way to put some air pressure in there - reverse - and push all that out? Compressor or a necked down shop-vac hose on reverse (blow). Or even scrub it with a small plumbing snake and pull it out, then rinse.

I could position the air compressor gun under it but its only going to move things around. I suppose I could use one of those finger snakes to break up some of the material. I wish I could see it. I though about sending an endoscope through the center vents. Im just happy its working right now.

[abscate]

Trolling the regulars here.

Does anyone remember a thread about someone doing piston rings by pulling the piston down through the sump after removing the oil pan, or have I been breathing in too much brake cleaner again?

P80 NA 1998

[volvolugnut]

Trolling the regulars here.

Does anyone remember a thread about someone doing piston rings by pulling the piston down through the sump after removing the oil pan, or have I been breathing in too much brake cleaner again?

P80 NA 1998

Seems like it was mentioned in the last month. I don't remember any details. Looks like it would be real fiddly to use a ring compressor from the bottom.
volvolugnut