What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[abscate]

Do a voltage drop test on each battery cable at each point , Bruno

The cable do get crusty inside after 20 years, and can fail intermittently.

With the lights on, Measure b+ voltage directly across battery. Now move the negative probe to the ground and see how much the measure voltage changes. That will give you an idea of the negative cable condition.

Negative probe back on battery terminal. Now move the positive probe to the ends of the red cables and look at the voltage with lights on.

This badly needs a video link, will search for a good one

[brunocerous]

The positive and the B+ cables had been changed by the PO, so I wonder if there's an ongoing issue lurking.

Never a dull moment!

[bmdubya1198]

The positive and the B+ cables had been changed by the PO, so I wonder if there's an ongoing issue lurking.

Never a dull moment!

Ah, if that's the case then it would probably be worth looking into.

[Ocelot]

So after saving up some funds, I took my S70 to the Volvo dealer for a new axle. Turned out the former one was... too long?! That explained some of the noises. I've heard you guys say alot about aftermarket axles, how they are rubbish and brake down, but my Volvo dealer placed an aftermarket product. They said they searched everywhere, even called different Volvo-dealers in Sweden, but they couldn't find an original anymore Well, the new axle drives like a charm, no more clunky noises in sharp corners, so that's a plus.

[Cookeh]

UK supply of driveshafts (and outer CVs) dried up about 10 years ago, according to long term owners. Breaker-yards are barren too, and have been for almost 5 years (thank you, Scrappage Scheme...). We've been using aftermarket driveshafts for a while as a result, though mostly sourced from well-known driveshaft specialist sources. As always and with anything, quality aftermarket should pose no issue - but unknown or smaller brands should generally be avoided.

[5rivers]

I don't remember the power steering lines being so difficult to remove, but I was able to cut them between the rack and front part of the subframe before the lines turn up to the pump/reservoir. I used a pair of bolt cutters, vice grips, and a hack saw. The vice grips were helpful in moving each line back and forth until the cut parts became separated. Closer to the rack I had to use a hack saw! Now it's the connections at each end of a line to loosen.

The stuck 13mm open end wrench finally came looose after I applied some heat to the bolt head and put an enormous amount of pressure to the stuck part of the wrench with a pry bar! Stuck the end of the pry bar underneath the stuck part and just kept pushing up until the wrench popped off!! Was then able to remove the bolt to the "beaver tail", but now the tail won't come out so I can get to the bottom part of the mount still bolted to the rack. I have tried raising and lowering the subframe and/or motor, all to no avail. There is almost enough room to slide it out behind the rack, but the O2 sensor is in the way. The arm attachment to the mount from the motor gets in the way when I try to slide it out in front of the rack! I think I might have to either remove the control arm bolts/nuts or undo the bolt(s) at the column holding up the steering rack. Just not sure which to try first! I need another half inch to an inch for the tail to clear the part of the rack where the mount is attached.

[5rivers]

A pic of the power steering lines at the rack, almost ready to be removed (waiting for pb blaster to work!).

The old rear motor mount (bottom part still attached to the rack) and new mount:

[kallekula]

Brakes bled! Old stuff looked really yucky...

[volvolugnut]

Brakes bled! Old stuff looked really yucky...

That is nasty!
volvolugnut

[Cookeh]

Are those discs dimpled or drilled?