DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT PCV Mod: no more smoking dipstick!

[kickin_it]

I love to see the DIY threads. Way to go.

Looks like I will be embarking upon this fix in the near future. Replaced entire PCV system when I did a head job back in December 2012 back am still having oil leaks from the front of the motor and the smoking dipstick with positive pressure. Today on the interstate I stepped on the gas pretty hard and I "blew" the trap to cam cover hose off of the car! Needless to say I had oil everywhere and a good amount of smoke from oil burning of exhaust.

My question is has anyone used the 5/8 hose to replace the oil trap to cam cover hose? I believe it is part number 1271654. It was mentioned in previous posts but I did not read where anyone tried this. I may give it a shot if I can rig something up. I plan on reusing my "new" parts from last year and cleaning them as much as possible.

[jblackburn]

I doubt heater hose will make that sharp bend without sticking way up.

Is that a URO or genuine Volvo hose? My URO blew off constantly - it is useless junk.

[cn90]

...I’d appreciate any advice about this specific variation of the PCV system, or any suggestions about using heater hose for this.

MMT51,

For 2000 model, I am thinking:
- Remove the old hoses.
- Cut off the metal pipes near the Banjo Connection and re-use the metal part.
- Use heater hose as much as possible, i.e. eliminating any unnecessary connections.

This should improve flow.

[cn90]

...My question is has anyone used the 5/8 hose to replace the oil trap to cam cover hose? I believe it is part number 1271654. It was mentioned in previous posts but I did not read where anyone tried this. I may give it a shot if I can rig something up. I plan on reusing my "new" parts from last year and cleaning them as much as possible.

kickin_it,

You have a few options:

1. Of course the best is to buy the Volvo hose, which is not too bad, about $21 for this hose (from oil trap to valve cover).

2. Get the generic heater hose of the right length, bend it about 90 degrees (making sure no kink) and blow through it, if there is good flow, then I guess you can use generic heater hose.

3. Buy "pre-formed" heater hose, i.e., heater hose that is already bent to 90 degrees. With this, you have to ask local autoparts store for you to browse through their collection (usually in the back of the store). If you bring the old hose, it will make the search easier.

If I were you, I'd stick to #1 above b/c the price is not that bad and you know it lasts some 130K (by that time of another 130K miles, you probably will get rid of the car anyway).

[abscate]

I’m not having any failure symptoms, but the car has 145,000 miles and the PCV system is probably original. Might this mean the coolant line jacketed with the vent line is working?

I think the 1999-on coolant warmed PCV system clogs a lot less than the 1998-previous system based on my own experience and reports here.

[kickin_it]

Is that a URO or genuine Volvo hose? My URO blew off constantly - it is useless junk.

It was the PCV kit from FCP that included URO hoses. Blew it right off and on to the road somewhere. I am kind of interested to see if I could fashion something out of hose to replace the troublesome hose. If not, I am lucky enough to live in Franklin, TN, home of Darrell Waltrip Volvo, and I could pick up some parts from the stealership.

One thing I did recognize on the PCV diagrams, Volvo has this hose (18) connected to the cam cover with a clamp or clip (19). The hose that I received did not incorporate a clamp and it basically just "plugged" into the cam cover. A little confused because I don't see how the clamp would hold anything. I am going to have an extra vehicle today to run around town and grab parts as I work on the vehicle.

[mikealder]

We call the clips I used on mine "Jubilee" clips in the UK, I think you know them as Worm Drive clamps, these are fiddly to attach to the top pipe pipe but it can be done and is easier than the OEM Volvo clamps that are the Oetiker style crimp clamps - Whatever type of pipe clamp you use it does need them on all the pipes that are part of the PCV system - Mike

[anglveyes]

ok guys I did a PCV on my 850 turbo last night replaced everything and did the heater hose mod (5/8)
and took car for drive came back it was fine .
today been driving car for awhile I stop and checked and im starting to smoke from the dipstick again as well as I found some oil which I did oil change to last night under the spark plug cover. which I mad sure that hose was good and clamped down tight looks fine .
as I pulled the dipstick out also I noticed some white gunky creamy looking stuff all of a sudden.
what would that be from ??? what should I do ?
please help asap !
thanks so much !

[mikealder]

The mayo is emulsified oil which is a mixture of water and oil, quite often found on the inside of the dipstick tube as the engine heats up the water content in the oil boils off and condenses in to mayo where it gets cooled (plenty of cold air rushing past the dipstick tube) - One option is to put pipe insulation around the dipstick tube but another is to take the car for a decent one hour plus drive to get everything up to temperature and boil the water content out.

As for a little smoke/ steam post the PCV change I wouldn't worry, look again after a couple of days/ 100 miles or so and it should settle down, I did the PCV on an S60 T5 recently that smoked afterwards, three days later it was fine.

If the top hose for the PCV hasn't blown off and you are seeing oil under the top cover change the oil filler cap seal as it costs little and they do leak when they get old - Mike

[mtd240]

I recently had some PCV issues after doing this mod (and replacing the whole system), and found the 5/8" heater hose to be kinked. Here is my ghetto solution. Might be nice to use some copper piping/elbows instead - I don't really know how the PVC will hold up.

FYI - I recently replaced my front O2 sensor. When I removed the air intake hose (accordion), including all the PCV stuff on it, I heard a "plunk!". Out came the PVC pipe on the outlet (horizontal) portion of the elbow. I thought they were snug when I assembled it.

So, my quick O2 sensor swap turned into an intake manifold removal. I used PVC cement to reassemble the pieces - they don't budge now. Now I can remove the intake manifold in less than 30 minutes - have had to do it 4 times in the past 6 months.

I also managed to touch the ECT wiring harness connector, which readily crumbled. Check Engine light, hooray! Cans of worms just sitting everywhere in this car.

Lesson: Use PVC cement if you are using my method.
Better lesson: Perhaps don't use my method.