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PCV Write-up for 1999+ Volvo 5-cylinder 31325709

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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abscate
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Re: PCV Write-up for 1999+ Volvo 5-cylinder

Post by abscate »

Tone - look on top of your cylinder head for one or two silver cylindrical solenoids with a connector on back. If you have these, you have CVVT, and the timing cam setup is more complicated than just lining up the marks. Its still simple, you can do it easily, but you have to understand what is going on there.
Empty Nester
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1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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zwieback
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Year and Model: V70 2002
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Post by zwieback »

This was super-helpful for me, thanks a million. I got the kit from iPd+ and it worked great. A couple comments on my 2002 non-turbo V70 :

- I had to disconnect the fuel line at the "quick-disconnect", which wasn't that quick to disconnect. Unhooking it from the fuel rail is easy but I couldn't maneuver the manifold past the fuel line, which is very stiff

- Plan in a trip to the parts/HW store for hose clamps and also the O-ring they shipped didn't fit. My engine is slightly different from all the pictures I could find, not sure why.

Andrew

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

You can bend that fuel line to release the manifold, then bend it back after reassembly. Just radius it smoothly and don’t kink it.
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kashee77
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Post by kashee77 »

Thank you so much for that excellent tutorial on the PCV system maintenance. I couldn't find the new thread or new post button so please point me in the right direction.
I rescued a 2000 v70xc from going to the wrecker. It had a clogged PCV system I suspect as it suddently blew its front cam seals and oil then :| stopped running. I am hoping it just lost pressure and stopped running and isn't seized. I had a friend completely run out of oil and seize his 1996 V70 but once he added oil it ran fine again so I am hopeful that this engine will be ok. This is really all I know about it. Its in great shape and I want to repair everything properly. I love these V70XC's!
So any suggestions as to what else I should be looking for that might have failed? I saw on youtube that there is an oring on the inside of the front cam that apparently volvo doesn't list? Does anyone know what I'm talking about an how to get one? I checked ebay already. I am replacing the timing belt, tensioner and pulleys, waterpump, serpentine belt and pulley, I have rear cam seals just in case. New PCV oil trap and hoses, intake gasket.
Did I understand that tutorial correctly? Are you putting a hose down the top where the of the engine where the PCV hose attaches through to the bottom where it attaches to the pcv oil trap? Can I stick a skinny brush on a wire down there? I have a good one from cleaning my hydration pack. I really don't want to pull the pan if I don't have to.
Also the previous mechanic lost the bolts to the intake manifold. When I tried to buy some new ones I was told they are an odd size M7? Is this true? I didn't know it existed.
Thanks in advance Kathy
99 V70 XC
98 V70 XC (Parts Car)
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99 V70 XC (Parts Car)
96 850 Turbo
95 850
95 850
88 740 had 466,000
I am a bit of a fan

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Good luck on your rescue, Kathy!

If you use one of the Volvo parts web store sites ypu can drill through to the assemblies needed and find all the parts. I don’t think there is a missing oring but if there is, some here will know!

The intake manifold bolts are M7, a funny size. You can get them at the same place above.

Does the engine turn over by hand ok with a big socket on the crank pulley, 30 mm, with the plugs out? Listen for bad noises or screeching of bad bearings
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ADent
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Post by ADent »

Did my 2001 V70 T5M and son's 2004 V70R (M) this Saturday - a loooong day.

Only could do it with a stubby 17mm wrench (made famous by the FCP video and discussion of said video) - required a trip to pick one up. We could get the 2004 out, but getting it in was bad and the 2001 is a bit tighter.

Getting the banjo bolt in we used the method from here: viewtopic.php?t=88989
volvomadness wrote: - So whats the best way to handle getting the banjo bolt back on. I had the greatest success less than 5 minutes by doing this.
DON'T connect the following hoses to the breather box. The one that goes to top of engine. The one that connected to the banjo.
and don't connect the hose from the banjo to thermostat. Doing all this will allow you alot of clearance to lift up intake and start the bolt. You will have to work under the manifold to connect those crankcase hoses but its no big deal.


Don't need to remove the ETMs they are under the manifold (so no gasket needed).

The duct to the ETM on the 2001 was very stiff to remove and install, so we took the manifold in/out with it attached and removed the two sensors connectors and disconnected it from the intercooler end. On the 2004 it just popped if off like in the FCP video (both with loosened clamps).

The fuel line on the 2001 needed to be separated at the quick connect - there are cheap nifty tools to do it, I couldn't find mine and used several screwdrivers. Just taking it off of the fuel rail isn't enough.

Removed the hose to the thermostat housing so we could follow the instructions above. On the 2004 we replaced the whole hose thing, so that came out anyway.

On the 2001 no check valve in the banjo bolt. The 2004 had one, but the older version that reportedly occasionally fails. The new one ( 31325709 ) has 2019 stamped on the top.

On the 2001 I had to pull the hard line from the power steering pump (that runs across the front of the car and turns into a soft line). The 2004 has a different shaped line and the smaller ETM makes maneuvering the manifold easier. About 1/4 cup of fluid will drain out, so have some towels. Built a shield for the alternator with some foil since some coolant will spill from thermostat too. I covered the exposed end of the hard line with a plastic bag and rubber band.

Of course on the V70R the airbox had to come out - the T5 has it on the side so it stayed.

On the 2001 the connector for the ETM is a long distance away from the ETM and you have to loosen a rear starter bracket to free the to pull the connector thru.

The split loom on my 2001 turns to dust with a touch, so have some replacement on hand. Also the plastic connector tabs are fragile - I had to clean the dust out of the ones on the intake duct to ease them off.

And of course on the turbo cars you will have to remove the boost tube that runs over the engine (not shown in OP since it is N/A).
2001 V70 T5M
1988 740 GLE 5.0

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Post by FireFox31 »

What additional preventative work should be done during the PCV cleaning now that our cars are seven years older than when this thread started?

I'm planning to do this on a 2000 V70 non-turbo with 200k mi and an unknown service history. I'd like to proactively replace whatever is reasonable at this age/mileage.

Do we really need to replace the two long hoses coming off the oil trap? Or how could they be cleaned?
Should I replace the oil trap since its service is unknown? I don't think it's leaking like the OP's.
Would you change the oil immediately before or after doing this job?
Does the 2000 V70 have a "flame trap" to worry about? On older cars, is that the cylindrical filter on the air intake pipe?
FireFox31
Blue 2000 V70 NA manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
Green 2000 V70 NA automatic, "the G70" - awaiting 2nd rehab
Black 2000 V70 NA automatic, "Geronimo" - rescued, rehabilitating
Blue 1998 V70 T5 manual, "the T5M" - awaiting rehab

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Post by abscate »

No flame trap on the 1999- models

I would replace all rubber parts on an unknown PCV especially if they are hard or oil soaked. if they are soft, dry , and pliable, you can reuse on a budget.

The catch can can be rinsed with solvent and re- used
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Post by FireFox31 »

Thanks. Replacing all rubber would include refurbishing the expensive hose between the PCV and the air intake, part 9202143 on my 2000. The hose contains two hard metal lines for air and coolant, but has plenty of rubber and plastic pieces on their ends. The FCP kit contains only the two parts linked below so I'm wondering how many I should replace. I'm draining my cooling system so wouldn't mind replacing those hoses too.

PCV hose:
9155948 - Oil trap to hose coupler, rubber, $10
Clamp for coupler to hose?
Vacuum hose off of coupler?
9155862 - Oil trap to intake manifold vacuum coupler, plastic, $8, apparently breaks easily
Air intake to hose coupler, L-shaped rubber. Part #?
Clamp for coupler to air intake?

Coolant hose:
U-shaped rubber coupler by thermostat and its clips?
45 degree rubber hose by throttle body and its clips?
FireFox31
Blue 2000 V70 NA manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
Green 2000 V70 NA automatic, "the G70" - awaiting 2nd rehab
Black 2000 V70 NA automatic, "Geronimo" - rescued, rehabilitating
Blue 1998 V70 T5 manual, "the T5M" - awaiting rehab

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Post by FireFox31 »

abscate wrote: 26 Jul 2021, 06:20 The catch can can be rinsed with solvent and re- used
cn90 wrote: 27 Nov 2016, 19:22 - Oil Trap, take it out and clean it with solvent. I posted the photo of the inside anatomy somewhere in forum.
Yes, you can re-use it.
erikv11 wrote: 05 Sep 2017, 17:00 The oil trap is the one part that is it totally fine to clean and re-use
What solvent can I use to rinse out the PCV breather box / oil trap? Can you provide a brand and product name? I've searched everywhere and found basically nothing. Thanks.
Last edited by FireFox31 on 12 Aug 2021, 14:10, edited 2 times in total.
FireFox31
Blue 2000 V70 NA manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
Green 2000 V70 NA automatic, "the G70" - awaiting 2nd rehab
Black 2000 V70 NA automatic, "Geronimo" - rescued, rehabilitating
Blue 1998 V70 T5 manual, "the T5M" - awaiting rehab

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