What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[bmdubya1198]

I’ve heard that PVC cement works well, but I have yet to try it. I’ve used JB Weld plastic bonder in the 2 part syringe, and the stuff is awesome. They have a black one and a tan one, they seem to be the same. Specifically the plastic bonder though, NOT plastic weld.
It’s a little thin on application, but it sets up quickly. Once cured, it’s STRONG.

[abscate]

Notes uneven wear after a good alignment, looked at the control arm on the uneven side and found a split boot on the ball joint. Could this cause my issues?

IF there's play and slop at that ball joint. I'm surprised they didn't catch that and mention it.

Place was subcontracted by the tire shop i stopped at. Meant to give them a call to see if all was well however lost the time. I am going to my indy tomorrow to see if it is indeed an issue. I do have slight pull to that side on braking and have had uneven wear on that side by a slight amount. The other side was replaced previously for safety January 2020.

Hoping this is the issue as i do not want to destroy these tires.

In terms of play it feels like i can slightly push it one side or the other on that side. I thought it was usual however i felt my friends miata the other day and it definitely feels a lot stiffer then what i got on.

I’ve found it’s hard to See the slop in ball joints on P80 Volvos with the typical visual pry test. Once the lower control arm is off, if you can move the ball joint with light finger pressure, ir if it’s over 100k old, replace it.

It should be stiff to move with hand pressure, several fingers.

Push some grease into thst joint and wrap with silicone fusion tape to protect it from water if it’s got service life left

New lock nut for the ball joint bolt per Volvo

[yanga001]

IF there's play and slop at that ball joint. I'm surprised they didn't catch that and mention it.

Place was subcontracted by the tire shop i stopped at. Meant to give them a call to see if all was well however lost the time. I am going to my indy tomorrow to see if it is indeed an issue. I do have slight pull to that side on braking and have had uneven wear on that side by a slight amount. The other side was replaced previously for safety January 2020.

Hoping this is the issue as i do not want to destroy these tires.

In terms of play it feels like i can slightly push it one side or the other on that side. I thought it was usual however i felt my friends miata the other day and it definitely feels a lot stiffer then what i got on.

I’ve found it’s hard to See the slop in ball joints on P80 Volvos with the typical visual pry test. Once the lower control arm is off, if you can move the ball joint with light finger pressure, ir if it’s over 100k old, replace it.

It should be stiff to move with hand pressure, several fingers.

Push some grease into thst joint and wrap with silicone fusion tape to protect it from water if it’s got service life left

New lock nut for the ball joint bolt per Volvo

Thanks for the advice!

Getting it changed tomorrow morning at my indy. Didnt recognize a brand on the previous ones and it felt dry within the joint. Hopefully nothing else is wrong down there.

Did some digging and found i drove 4000km this month which is a hell of a lot more than expected. Need to cut down on my long distance drives lol.

Will take pictures and report the joints state tomorrow

[abscate]

I finished fixing Shaggs left front foot. New FAG bearing. One of the heads on the hub bolt stripped, zip zip zip

I treated the brake backing plate with ortho for rust and then hammerite. One hole had rusted out on the plate so I added a fat washer to the M6 bolt

[abscate]

… and the crowd went wild……

[xanthefin]

My 850 now has some real problems.. earlier suspected gearbox but now i moved focus at engine fully.


It is been hard to start. Stalls pretty easily if given any load for the engine but idles freely well 98% of time (maybe balancing effect of 5 cylinder?) So only very super tiny random hiccup which you wouldnt even put a notice. It struggles at during revving (at the begining some hiccups when rising revs but keeps constant higher rev) so it started now feel ignition or spark side having problems as bad coil at earlier cars made so that there is hiccups and it becomes worse during time. Like here now its totally bad and earlier had only some hiccups so i suspected the gearbox. Cant drive or long at all now.


I tested compression and during that i found some of my spark plugs were covered oil very well so after compression testing it started again fine but now after couple days it become again bad. Compressions were fine. All was slightly different. 150 to 220 psi.. first cylinder after timing belt was the worst which by reading i remembered is common on these.



Maybe that because my summer holidays started so Volvo decided too go to holidays..


Next as i have had here waiting i will replace the ignition distributor or what it is called exactly.


Kinda annoying as suddenly i was blocking two lanes out of three lanes middle of the day for a moment before i got it to started again. I shouldn't have tried to go as it was hard to start at morning .. lets try next time listen own senses better.

[manovlov]

Hy,

It remains me something your story. Could it come from this part ?

Sensor - Cam shaft pulse.jpg (43.63 KiB) Viewed 463 times

Manov

[xanthefin]

Thanks for the tip i will check that too. Could be honestly. I will use oscilloscope for checking as i was in need to check both (RPM sensor and CMP sensors) anyway too for to bench M4.4 with fake engine signals.

Will wait traffic to be less so i can use multi attempt to move car back home so i can diagnose those pulses easier..

Will attempt just replace for first now distributor and rotator as i have those already in shelf been waiting.

Sadly i have fenix so i am kinda blind of what is going in engine otherwise as sensor data.

[manovlov]

Does ODB give codes ?

[xanthefin]

Waited it give light for such as these if error codes in Fenix but not any else codes been there. Will attempt read Fenix codes if anything appeared now after couple stalls.

Edit: Just read.. RPM sensor fault code doesn't put MIL light on. CMP fault does,