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2001 S80 T6 Siren Module 9452709 Replacement/Repair - How To Topic is solved

Everything on the Volvo S80. Sometimes called an "executive car", the S80 was Volvo's top-of-the-line passenger car. P2 platform.
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Fix Siren Module on 2001 Volvo S80
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turbotim2
Posts: 708
Joined: 4 February 2005
Year and Model:
Location: Maine

Re: 2001 S80 T6 Siren Module Replacement/Repair - How To

Post by turbotim2 »

I just did this repair on my 2004 XC70. It took about an hour and fifteen minutes. The alarm and sunroof are working again! Its an easy repair. I got the siren from the Richardson, TX link earlier in the thread, it was almost $200 with shipping and they added a new bolt as well. Thanks for posting this repair!
2004 XC70

2005 S60 2.5T AWD (gone)

1996 850 GLT Wagon in Blue (gone)

1996 850 GLT Wagon in Green (gone)

DGM
Posts: 459
Joined: 23 December 2010
Year and Model: V70 2.4i 2005
Location: Quebec, Canada
Been thanked: 3 times

Post by DGM »

I replaced the battery of the siren module on my V70 2005. I decided to change it before the circuit board gets corroded.

The battery has started to leak an acid compoud on the negative side. The battery voltage was only 3.7 volts when I replaced it.
Old battery
Old battery
CIMG1683m.JPG (47.66 KiB) Viewed 5813 times
I found the following Lithium-Ion battery to replace it.

It is of smaller size and within 10% of the original capacity. Also it is of better quality and should last longer. I reused the original connector and soldered the leads to it. I used heat shrinks to isolate.
Lithium Ion replacement battery
Lithium Ion replacement battery
CIMG1684m.JPG (51.29 KiB) Viewed 5813 times
I ordered it on line at ;

http://www.onlybatteries.com/showitem.a ... 7&uid=1108

I glued the new battery at the bottom of the housing with silicone.
New battery held in place with silicone
New battery held in place with silicone
CIMG1686m.JPG (63.82 KiB) Viewed 5813 times
When dryed, I reassembled the top portion with 2 parts epoxy/5 minutes. I finished the assembly with a coat of silicone on the seam to waterproof it.

One last thing, I used a long nose Vise-grip to undo the bolt instead of drilling it. I found it was easier. I reused the same bolt on reassembly.
Bolt removal / Vise-grip
Bolt removal / Vise-grip
CIMG1708m.JPG (84.33 KiB) Viewed 5813 times
Many thanks to the contributors of this tread for your help :) .
V70 2005 2.4i 195,000km, sold
S70 1998 T5 355,000km, sold
960 1994 80,000km, sold
760 1990 Turbo 265,000km, sold

Paulie151
Posts: 8
Joined: 1 October 2011
Year and Model: S80, 2006
Location: New York

Post by Paulie151 »

Nice post, it helped me familiarize myself with getting at the module and what it looked like inside before I opened it myself.
I found a great solution to the battery problem, and thought I'd share my success. :D

Obviously, what led me here is having encountered the same problem. On my fathers 2006 Volvo S80, the alarm started to go off for no apparent reason at different times, but then seemed to be okay. He took it in to get it checked, and they told him to replace the module. Well, looking at a repair bill of around $300. or more to have the dealer do it, my father said the hell with it. Taking out the fuse, was the kneejerk solution. AHA! But then we discovered the sunroof no long worked! So I took out the module, and decided to repair the "Not serviceable" thing myself as I have a fair amount of electronic know-how. I just love it when they tell me "Not serviceable"! It's like a challenge!!

I neglected to take pictures, so bear with my explanation here.

After taking the module apart, I discovered that I had battery leakage. It corroded the pc board right around where the battery wire plugs into the board. This caused obvious continuity problems, which is why the alarm would go off at intermittent times for "no reason". So I looked at what you found out about the battery, and went on a replacement hunt of my own. Now here's where things got tricky, as this was a specially made battery apparently made specifically just for this module. So ignoring the original, I decided to find a voltage/mAh equivalent that would fit into the space. I decided to use a Li-Ion battery, because they are more dependable and last longer.

The perfect one to use, and just fits in the module body where the old one was, is a Li-Ion 18650 7.4v Tenergy 2200mAh rechargeable battery with built in pc. The built in pc on this model battery, is designed to protect the battery from overcharging, over discharging and to prolong battery life(by having the first 2 features). It is also wrapped a hell of a lot better than the original, but I sealed mine into place with hot glue around all the edges anyway to ensure no possible future leakage ever hits the pc board again. You will have to remove any plastic and stubs from where the original battery was, and make the bottom of the module body flat before installing the new battery. Also, you will have to relocate the transformer to the empty corner of the module body, as it will not fit with the new battery in place. And chances are, you will have to take it off anyway to clean/repair any corrosion from the electrolyte leakage. You can use the plastic cover from the old battery to cover it with a little trimming, and use colored wires to re-connect the transformer to the pc board. Then just a little hot glue on the sides to hold it in place.

I then repaired the contacts on the pc board, and installed two posts where the old battery jack was to solder the new battery wires onto as the new battery does not come with a plug, and mine was far too corroded to reuse. For any electronic novices reading this, be VERY careful when re-soldering connections around existing components! Especially transistors and capacitors! The heat can damage them, so don't use an "instant heat" solder gun, they get too hot.

I then put the module back together with superglue, and stuck it in the vice for 5 minutes. Then I used some hot glue to seal the seam and make it weatherproof again. I then re-installed the module, and everything works great!!! No more annoying messages on the dash, and I saved my father big bucks!!! All this wound up costing us was a little time, and about $20.00 for the battery!!!

Good luck, I hope your repairs are as successful!

Paulie151
Posts: 8
Joined: 1 October 2011
Year and Model: S80, 2006
Location: New York

Post by Paulie151 »

igel513 wrote:My 03 S60's battery was always loosing it's juice so I decided to remove the alarm using this write up. Sure enough, the battery leaked and blackened the board. I'm still searching for a replacement siren battery and haven't found one similar to the original.
I just called the dealer and it cost $243 and change + tax for a siren. Ouch! I'll try to order a 7.2 volts battery from the website mentioned above and see if the PCBoard was not fried. The short on the wiring was probably causing the battery drain cuz the car started2 days after I removed the siren and the battery is usually drained after 2 days if car is not used.
The question now is, do I have to replace the siren if I'm unable to fix it? Will other elec'l components be affected if ECM detects
a missing siren? There will surely be DTC like Siren Module problem but I'm not concerned with that. Any thoughts on this?
See my reply today for the repair info. Cheers.

Paulie151
Posts: 8
Joined: 1 October 2011
Year and Model: S80, 2006
Location: New York

Post by Paulie151 »

DGM wrote:I replaced the battery of the siren module on my V70 2005. I decided to change it before the circuit board gets corroded.

The battery has started to leak an acid compoud on the negative side. The battery voltage was only 3.7 volts when I replaced it.
CIMG1683m.JPG
I found the following Lithium-Ion battery to replace it.

It is of smaller size and within 10% of the original capacity. Also it is of better quality and should last longer. I reused the original connector and soldered the leads to it. I used heat shrinks to isolate.
CIMG1684m.JPG
I ordered it on line at ;

http://www.onlybatteries.com/showitem.a ... 7&uid=1108

I glued the new battery at the bottom of the housing with silicone.
CIMG1686m.JPG
When dryed, I reassembled the top portion with 2 parts epoxy/5 minutes. I finished the assembly with a coat of silicone on the seam to waterproof it.

One last thing, I used a long nose Vise-grip to undo the bolt instead of drilling it. I found it was easier. I reused the same bolt on reassembly.
CIMG1708m.JPG
Many thanks to the contributors of this tread for your help :) .
Not to knock your ingenuity or repair, it does look good and I'm sure it works fine. But it looks to me like you paid too much attention to the size of the battery, and went too low on the mAh as a result. This may cause problems for you in the future, but I hope not. Anytime you replace a battery, you want to try to match both the volts and the mAh. It's okay to go a little over, but not below. You are reducing capacity and battery life as a result. See my post today for the ideal replacement battery, and more. Cheers.

Paulie151
Posts: 8
Joined: 1 October 2011
Year and Model: S80, 2006
Location: New York

Post by Paulie151 »

Tudor_1984 wrote:Hi,

Do I have the possibility to test the siren module without installing it on car.
I have bought a second hand siren module and I want to test it before mounting it on car.
Maybe there is a way testing it with the multimeter?

Thanks and regards,
Tudor
I hope you did not pay too much for it, as it will most likely not last long if it is used. The problem with these modules is that they only last up to 5 years before the battery starts leaking and damaging the pc board inside. See my other post today for full details on how to repair this problem.

As far as testing it before you install it, simply plug the wire into it from the car. Then lock/arm the car, and pull the wire out of the module. It should immediately go off. If it does work and goes off, you will have to plug the wire back in to turn it off.

Hope this helps, cheers.

Paulie151
Posts: 8
Joined: 1 October 2011
Year and Model: S80, 2006
Location: New York

Post by Paulie151 »

will-sussex-uk wrote:I just bought a used siren off Ebay and plugged it in to test it, nothing. Same as old one, no sunroof, showing alarm service message. Does the alarm need to charge up , if so does it do it just by being plugged in or does the car have to be running/driving ?

I want to cut this unit open and have a look but then i can't send it back to the seller.
RETURN IT!!!

The problem with these modules is that they only last up to 5 years before the battery starts leaking and damaging the pc board inside. See my other post today for full details on how to repair this problem. Especially if you cannot return it, at least you could repair it for $20.00.

Hope this helps, cheers.

Paulie151
Posts: 8
Joined: 1 October 2011
Year and Model: S80, 2006
Location: New York

Post by Paulie151 »

billybob121 wrote:Okay guys i am having a huge problem with this i and i can not find an answer anywhere. My siren went obviously but i can not find the damn part on the car to replace! I have an s60 2003 i love in the usa. I checked behind the right front passenger wheel and there is nothing there it just leads right into the engine bay. there is not siren behind the wheel anywhere. Am i missing something where is it located?
You said you checked behind the right wheel, did you look in front? The module could be in front of the right wheel, behind the wheel well shroud. It could also be in the same location, but on the left/driver side.

Hope this helps, cheers.

Paulie151
Posts: 8
Joined: 1 October 2011
Year and Model: S80, 2006
Location: New York

Post by Paulie151 »

VCA wrote:
Beachbum wrote:Does anybody know if you can just jump the wires going into the siren module without having to remove the module? To get rid of the annoying "Alarm System Service Required" message. And if so, would the sunroof still work?

Are there just 2 wires going into the module, and could you jump them to disable it? If more than 2, which ones (what colors) would you jump?

Yes, I know this would disable the siren but would save you some $$$ and time.
I'm afraid not. The siren's not just an on/off device, it's signaled over a serial protocol called Volcano Lite or LIN (Local Interconnect Network) depending on the year. Do not jump any of those wires, as there is the possibility of killing your UEM, and that's real money to put right.
You could just repair it for $20.00, see my other post today for full details on how to repair this problem.

Hope this helps, cheers.

DGM
Posts: 459
Joined: 23 December 2010
Year and Model: V70 2.4i 2005
Location: Quebec, Canada
Been thanked: 3 times

Post by DGM »

Paulie151 wrote:
Not to knock your ingenuity or repair, it does look good and I'm sure it works fine. But it looks to me like you paid too much attention to the size of the battery, and went too low on the mAh as a result. This may cause problems for you in the future, but I hope not. Anytime you replace a battery, you want to try to match both the volts and the mAh. It's okay to go a little over, but not below. You are reducing capacity and battery life as a result. See my post today for the ideal replacement battery, and more. Cheers.
Size matter and in fact you have demonstrated it because you had to relocate the transformer in your repair .

The capacity of the NiMH battery is 780 mAh (3x260). Consequently a battery rated at 750 mAh is within range considering Lithium Ion batteries are of better quality and will conserve voltage/current over time better than NiMH.

As you mentionned it is okay to go a little over but nearly 3 times the original is more than a "little". The ability of the circuit to handle the increased current during a deep discharge/recharge cycle is unknown. It can create problems even if the battery charging rate is controlled with its onboard IC. It was another factor to consider in selecting a battery within the original capacity range.

In my opinion the battery you used isn't the "ideal replacement". It is another approach requiring extensive fitment but having the advantage of an increased capacity. It should be presented as such and is a matter of choice. Cheers.
V70 2005 2.4i 195,000km, sold
S70 1998 T5 355,000km, sold
960 1994 80,000km, sold
760 1990 Turbo 265,000km, sold

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