2001 V70XC - 200,000 Miles Makeover Topic is solved

[vtl]

Are you replacing camshaft seal or VVT hub? For t-belt alone locking tool is not needed...

As said, do marks on old t-belt and all sprockets (two camshafts, one crankshaft), remove t-belt, transfer marks to new t-belt, count teeth between marks twice, install. Use paper clips to hold t-belt on camshaft sprockets:





Here on the pic I did my first t-belt and have used a sprockets lock tool, but it was not needed at all. It turns out I did two marks on each sprocket, just to play safe.

Also, don't use Contitech belts for this engine, they are not good

[- Pete -]

Yes to the paper clips! Thanks for that VTL. I’ve used the miniature Irwin quick clamps to hold the belt to the sprockets. And the paint mark on the crank pulley/belt is a must too.

The VVT hub on yours may be the spring loaded type. Mine was. Since I reused the hub the quick clamps were also a must. The new hubs aren’t spring loaded.

VTL - could you expound on why you recommended against Contitech belts?

I’d have to look, but I know I have them on 2/4 cars right now. Probably 3/4. I change them at 75-80k & have never had a problem.

[vtl]

Conti T-belt is not "even": one side is thinner than the other, or something along that way. Belt tends to slide to the outer edge of the sprocket. OE belt does not do that.

Serpentine belt will eventually cost you a PS pump. It is either a bit too short, or it does not stretch/flex enough, so it requires a lot of force to put it on the pulleys, and that force remains there after the tensioner is released. One Conti belt in my car had even shredded along the treads, about 1/3 of its width. The kevlar threads made their way under the t-belt, it jumped one tooth at exhaust sprocket. I got a replacement Conti belt, was amidst painful installation process when figured out that PS pump is knocking badly. Had PS pump replaced ($380, ouch!), got Volvo belts, both. No more Conti belts, no more belt problems. Volvo serpentine belt is a much easier to install.

Yes, I've got the correct Conti belt. The shorter one wouldn't even fit, because longer barely fits.

[- Pete -]

Conti T-belt is not "even": one side is thinner than the other, or something along that way. Belt tends to slide to the outer edge of the sprocket. OE belt does not do that.

Serpentine belt will eventually cost you a PS pump. It is either a bit too short, or it does not stretch/flex enough, so it requires a lot of force to put it on the pulleys, and that force remains there after the tensioner is released. One Conti belt in my car had even shredded along the treads, about 1/3 of its width. The kevlar threads made their way under the t-belt, it jumped one tooth at exhaust sprocket. I got a replacement Conti belt, was amidst painful installation process when figured out that PS pump is knocking badly. Had PS pump replaced ($380, ouch!), got Volvo belts, both. No more Conti belts, no more belt problems. Volvo serpentine belt is a much easier to install.

Yes, I've got the correct Conti belt. The shorter one wouldn't even fit, because longer barely fits.

Very interesting, on both your T & S belt findings. Thank you again!

Your luck with car stuff sounds a lot like mine.

All the timing belts I've replaced with Conti belts have tracked right in the middle of the sprockets & shown zero wear/fraying upon replacement. I've only done 4. I'm in no way doubting you, just stating I've had different experiences. I replace S-belts at the same time I do T-belts. 2 of my PS pumps have an extremely small leak that I truly haven't tracked down to being the pump itself. Could very well be the reservoir/barb/hose junction leaking. All my pumps are silent. I honestly don't know what brand the s-belts on the cars are though. Just whatever is of European manufacture & of decent ratings on FCP.

[abscate]

Possibilities are

Counterfeit part
Out of spec part sold on greymarket, aka eBay parts
Defective part

As always, check new parts before installation. Priceless information for me as I just bought a Conti timing belt forT5

[vtl]

Belts were bought at FCP. T-belt was ok, only riding on sprockets unevenly, I was mostly worried about my serp. belt observations (snapped, too much force put on pulleys). T-belt replacement with Volvo was more of "f-k you, Conti".

It just does not make sense to pay $10-20 less for aftermarket parts that are supposed to run for 100k/8 years.

[abscate]

I just measured my Conti belt thickness at 4 pseudo-random places along its length

results

No more than 0,1mm vacation across width of belt

Range of thickness long length of belt 2.5mm to 2.8 mm

I estimate the error of these measurements to be of the order of 0.1mm

This an FCP purchased belt 0845 1405 2019 (So May 2019 production?

Part number 8627484

Nicht Knicken (dont steal timing belts)

[- Pete -]

Very interesting. I’ve read peoples comments occasionally about belts being “too short” to get on the accessory circuit etc. I just always thought it was because they hadn’t positioned their serpentine belt removal tool properly.

[abscate]

I think people know this, but when putting a belt on a tensioned, multi pulley system, the larger the pulley, the easier it is to put the belt on - so put the timing belt on the water pump, not the idler, and the serp belt on the PS pump, not the idler - last.

[xHeart]

Practicing how to be calm and prepared during this project.

Are you replacing camshaft seal or VVT hub? For t-belt alone locking tool is not needed...

Also, don't use Contitech belts for this engine, they are not good :)

Yes, seals and hub, along with oil pump service (circus at crankshaft), hence adding t-belt, s-belt, components, and water pump to Pete's list below. I may order a la carte, not kit.

Really, all you will need to replace is the rear exhaust seal, rear intake plug, front intake & exhaust seals, then your crank seal/o-ring/gasket. Make sure to use some sealant on your oil pump bolts (under heads & threads nearest heads).

Did you get a cam locking tool? If not, mine is free for the taking now that I'm done with my task.