2001 V70 2.4T Brake Failure Service Urgent / Power Fluctuations / Engine Shuddering

[abscate]

It’s amazing what living around the elevated temps of the radiator does for rust growth.

[prwood]

I managed to get the broken screw out:

IMG_4887.jpg (1.94 MiB) Viewed 398 times

With the clip still attached to it, but it's out nonetheless, and there's now a clean opening there for my own solution.

It should be noted that the rust was entirely in the condenser section of the sandwich - the clips that the screws attach to are all attached to the condenser. Nothing on the radiator or intercooler was rusty.

I went ahead and removed the other clips as well, and got a set of nuts, bolts, and washers to replace all of the original screws and clips with. The bolt size is M6-1.0 75mm. Home Depot did not have stainless steel screws in the right size with hex or torx heads, only phillips heads, which I didn't think was a good idea. I got their basic zinc-plated screws. Also got nylon locking nuts. I'll apply some anti-seize compound to the threads.

I ran out of energy to finish the job yesterday, so hopefully I'll be able to finish up today.

[EngineeringBloke]

Earlier you asked about the regulator's washer position and if it mattered.

I think it does. The way you have it connected now results in current going thru the wire to the attached terminator, then thru the washer to the nut and the threads on the projecting 'bolt' into the regulator.

If you change it to match the diagram, the wire terminator is in close contact with the nut and then to with the threads into the regulator.

The purpose of the washer is mechanical and not electrical. So it could add impedance to the electrical circuit.

This might be totally insignificant, but you had to ask.

(Sorry about the radiator, I don't want to think about all the stuff I've broken repairing my MA S60 - looking at the passenger door's window triangular sail panel cover with 2 broken clipping posts - that no longer appears available.)