2001 S80 T6 Siren Module 9452709 Replacement/Repair - How To Topic is solved
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Fix Siren Module on 2001 Volvo S80
Re: 2001 S80 T6 Siren Module Replacement/Repair - How To
Try to repair the siren module of my 2005 S80. However, it may take a while to fit in a new battery and/or repair the pc board. So, my question is that will the car still function normally without the siren module? I have to put tire back and use the car after taking out the module. Appreciated if anyone has the answer.
-
DGM
- Posts: 459
- Joined: 23 December 2010
- Year and Model: V70 2.4i 2005
- Location: Quebec, Canada
- Been thanked: 3 times
An interesting post by fazool. Last summer I made a mistake when I estimated the total current of the replacement pack. The cells are connected in series and only the voltage add up. The total current is limited by each cell capacity (250mah).
Find this interesting link on the subject.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/arti ... igurations
Then a battery pack rated at 7.2 v/ 250 mah is a suitable replacement.
The one that I used has extra capacity compared to the original. The siren module circuitry charges it well. Its physical dimensions are smaller than the original.
The new set-up went through the winter and I will report if a problem arise.
Find this interesting link on the subject.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/arti ... igurations
Then a battery pack rated at 7.2 v/ 250 mah is a suitable replacement.
The one that I used has extra capacity compared to the original. The siren module circuitry charges it well. Its physical dimensions are smaller than the original.
The new set-up went through the winter and I will report if a problem arise.
V70 2005 2.4i 195,000km, sold
S70 1998 T5 355,000km, sold
960 1994 80,000km, sold
760 1990 Turbo 265,000km, sold
S70 1998 T5 355,000km, sold
960 1994 80,000km, sold
760 1990 Turbo 265,000km, sold
-
fazool
- Posts: 746
- Joined: 6 February 2010
- Year and Model: S60, 2007
- Location: buffalo, NY
- Been thanked: 7 times
lwliu wrote:Try to repair the siren module of my 2005 S80. However, it may take a while to fit in a new battery and/or repair the pc board. So, my question is that will the car still function normally without the siren module? I have to put tire back and use the car after taking out the module. Appreciated if anyone has the answer.
The car will drive without the siren module. Since it is connected through the upper electronic module, you may have non-working sunroof, ceiling lights and homelink.
I have heard someone claim the car will also eventually go into immobilizer mode (thinking the alarm was tampered with) but I have never seen evidence of that myself.
2007 S60 2.5T AWD (Daily Driver)
2001 S60 2.4T (Daughter's Car)
2003 S80 2.9 (Son's Car)
1995 850 2.4 (Daughter's Car - sold off)
2005 S40 2.4i (Bought new - since sold)
1986 740GLE 2.3(First Volvo - sold off)
Just done this repair myself. Got the genuine parts from a member called Rufe. All genuine Volvo parts . Priced around the £100 mark. The hardest part was removing the security bolt. Chose to use a Dremel with a metal cutting disk. Came out with no problem. Fitting was easy and no re-programming was needed on my 2002 V70 T5 model. Great post and thanks for the help.
-
fazool
- Posts: 746
- Joined: 6 February 2010
- Year and Model: S60, 2007
- Location: buffalo, NY
- Been thanked: 7 times
I have a separate thread here:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=47227
Where I ran into some similar issues.
I repaired my battery connections and reassembled my module. In the meantime I purchased a replacement battery and will tear into the module again, once the stock battery finally gives up the ghost.
The security bolt was super easy to remove on mine. I used long nose vise grip pliers. There was just enough edge to grab and it spun out very easily.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=47227
Where I ran into some similar issues.
I repaired my battery connections and reassembled my module. In the meantime I purchased a replacement battery and will tear into the module again, once the stock battery finally gives up the ghost.
The security bolt was super easy to remove on mine. I used long nose vise grip pliers. There was just enough edge to grab and it spun out very easily.
2007 S60 2.5T AWD (Daily Driver)
2001 S60 2.4T (Daughter's Car)
2003 S80 2.9 (Son's Car)
1995 850 2.4 (Daughter's Car - sold off)
2005 S40 2.4i (Bought new - since sold)
1986 740GLE 2.3(First Volvo - sold off)
-
fazool
- Posts: 746
- Joined: 6 February 2010
- Year and Model: S60, 2007
- Location: buffalo, NY
- Been thanked: 7 times
Here are some more How-To notes and photo's for this repair.
I won't repeat the Siren Module removal - that's already well detailed. One note, however, on the security screw - I had good luck removing the security screw on mine by grabbing the edges. That did not work on the salvage yard replacement, however. I had to wrestle it out of the bracket (since this car was missing a fender).
Opening the module is not hard. I tried a dremel type tool with a cutting wheel:
This didn't work as well as I thought, so lightly tapping a thin bladed putty knife into the seam and rocking it around the perimeter worked better.
The damage on the board can clearly be seen. The battery leads were destroyed, the PC Board damaged and even the connector was damaged.
The battery I chose was this one : http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2255
The connector is not the same type. The original has a tab to help retain it. But the new one has the same spacing and will work. Just trim off the extra connector spots so it has two connector spots by using a razor knife or diagonal cutters. Here you can see it, ready to install.
The battery retainer was cracked during removal and the battery pack is a little smaller. I crazy-glued the battery retainer back into shape and then wrapped the battery pack in electrical tape so it fit snugly.
To replace the fender liner rivets, I got these from Home Depot
And painted them with some leftover black textured plastic paint I had.
So far so good. My replacement pack is ready to go. I am milking my OEM unit a little longer since the battery has been behaving for the past couple weeks. Once it finally goes, I will swap out my working PC Board into this new battery equipped case, glue it shut, seal the seam and reinstall it.
I won't repeat the Siren Module removal - that's already well detailed. One note, however, on the security screw - I had good luck removing the security screw on mine by grabbing the edges. That did not work on the salvage yard replacement, however. I had to wrestle it out of the bracket (since this car was missing a fender).
Opening the module is not hard. I tried a dremel type tool with a cutting wheel:
This didn't work as well as I thought, so lightly tapping a thin bladed putty knife into the seam and rocking it around the perimeter worked better.
The damage on the board can clearly be seen. The battery leads were destroyed, the PC Board damaged and even the connector was damaged.
The battery I chose was this one : http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2255
The connector is not the same type. The original has a tab to help retain it. But the new one has the same spacing and will work. Just trim off the extra connector spots so it has two connector spots by using a razor knife or diagonal cutters. Here you can see it, ready to install.
The battery retainer was cracked during removal and the battery pack is a little smaller. I crazy-glued the battery retainer back into shape and then wrapped the battery pack in electrical tape so it fit snugly.
To replace the fender liner rivets, I got these from Home Depot
And painted them with some leftover black textured plastic paint I had.
So far so good. My replacement pack is ready to go. I am milking my OEM unit a little longer since the battery has been behaving for the past couple weeks. Once it finally goes, I will swap out my working PC Board into this new battery equipped case, glue it shut, seal the seam and reinstall it.
2007 S60 2.5T AWD (Daily Driver)
2001 S60 2.4T (Daughter's Car)
2003 S80 2.9 (Son's Car)
1995 850 2.4 (Daughter's Car - sold off)
2005 S40 2.4i (Bought new - since sold)
1986 740GLE 2.3(First Volvo - sold off)
- regent
- Posts: 1319
- Joined: 22 February 2010
- Year and Model: 2015 XC60 T5
- Location: Under the Hood
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 12 times
Nice writeup.
I like the replacement pop rivets a lot, too
I like the replacement pop rivets a lot, too
Example of Precision: Measure with a Micrometer, mark it with Chalk, and then cut it with an Axe.
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired
1987 340 DL - retired
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired
1987 340 DL - retired
Can anyone tell me if the location of the alarm module is the same for a 2004 V40? Also would the unlock lock method work to reset the alarm considering this isn't a P2 platform Volvo, or am I going to need it reinitialized at the dealer?
Thanks for any help!
Thanks for any help!
- regent
- Posts: 1319
- Joined: 22 February 2010
- Year and Model: 2015 XC60 T5
- Location: Under the Hood
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 12 times
On V40, the location and arrangement is different from P2. Make sure you clear any comm codes
- Attachments
-
V40 Factory Alarm1.pdf- (80.88 KiB) Downloaded 343 times
-
V40 Factory Alarm2.pdf- (52.32 KiB) Downloaded 708 times
Example of Precision: Measure with a Micrometer, mark it with Chalk, and then cut it with an Axe.
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired
1987 340 DL - retired
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired
1987 340 DL - retired
Two questions, if I may.
1. Is it completely necessary to disconnect the battery or is this just "good practise"? (I'm worried about the code to re-enable the radio)
2. Can the car be started and driven without the alarm module? The lights and noise is getting VERY annoying and it could be a while before a new module arrives ...
Thanks.
1. Is it completely necessary to disconnect the battery or is this just "good practise"? (I'm worried about the code to re-enable the radio)
2. Can the car be started and driven without the alarm module? The lights and noise is getting VERY annoying and it could be a while before a new module arrives ...
Thanks.
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post






