Oil Pan Job... How bad?

[FlyingVolvo]

*high five*, friend!

I was surprised also... I found NO trace of any pink sealant.

But as far as if you are going to use it, you really should use the Volvo OEM stuff, it's a pink anaerobic sealant.

Also, I'd like to get the pan really clean. Is there a way for me to do this, or is it best left to a shop to "dishwash"? How would I ask about that service?

[JDS60R]

Transmission shops seem to be the most reasonable for parts washing as they do it for each unit. Call ahead and tell them what you are looking ot have done. The outside of the case will be stained from the old accumulations on it and the water that went over it.

For those who want it looking top notch a high heat paint from Duplicolor or VHT is close in color and is made to transfer heat well. This is for the outside of the pan only - do not spray paint on the inside of the pan or on the gasket surface. Duplicolor advertises this paint for brake calipers and Engines. Both are heat rated for about 400 degrees which is more than is needed. Just pick your color, clean the outer pan and spray.

If you clean it at home then a simple green solution ( or carb cleaner) will take off most of the residue on both the inside and outside. I like the liquid B-12 Chemtool as it cuts through the residue quickly. A spray can of it is helpful as well for the tight spots.

[FlyingVolvo]

Cool, thanks for the info! There is a transmission shop just down a few blocks, I'll give them a call. Too bad I didn't wait until Sunday to do this though, now if I decide to how it power treated I'll have to wait until Monday.

I'm not so concerned about the outside appearance, I'd just like the inside to be pristine.

Also, any comments/suggestions about the lack of old sealant? Did the factory stuff just burn off after this many miles? I couldn't find any remnants at all, only varnish marks from oil and grime.

[JDS60R]

Its a topic of conversation for Monday. I thought it odd as well. Especially that both of you had the same o ring issue.

[JDS60R]

Dont wait - clean the outside thoroughly with simple green and then use B-12 for the inside. It won't get much cleaner than that in the cooker. And it turns it a darker grey in the cooker.

[FlyingVolvo]

Alrighty, how's this?

I let it soak in Simple Green for 10 minutes then attacked with a scrub sponge.

I think I did a pretty good job, will probably pass on taking it somewhere. I just need a way to get rid of that varnish/gasket on the mating surface that you see at the bottom of the second pic. I don't want to damage the surface.

[JDS60R]

Looks Great !!!

Just as you pointed out:
Clean the mating surfaces on the pan and block(chemically only) and you will be ready to reassemble. I use a little Hylomar to hold the o rings up in the block. This way I know they are in correctly.

[JDS60R]

Hey - while you have it off and clean. Can you post a pic of how low the oil drain plug sits from the inside of the pan. Everybody always asks me for that pic and I always forget to take it.
Thanks

[JDS60R]

A spray can of B-12 will remove any residue from inside the pan and will help with the gasket residue. You want to get the simple green residue out and brake clean or B-12 will not leave residue.

Because you are using the liquid sealer it is not overly important that you remove the gasket chemically only. I have had to redo so many head gaskets etc because folks have scoured them. Its like second nature for me to warn people not to scour a gasket surface.

[FlyingVolvo]

I lightly scrubbed the surface with my sponge, no hard pressing though. I'm going to take a razor to it and see if I can carefully get some of it off. Is B-12 available at most stores?

Also, your wish is my command...