What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[abscate]

Torque as a surrogate for clamping force is only accurate to 20% anyway, so don’t sweat those errors.

The cam cover bolt torque is non-critical, the anaerobic glue does the work

Typical torque wrench error is specs at 5% of full range. A 150 ft lb wrench will have an error if 7.5 ft lb potentially. At 15 ft lb torque that’s 50% error!!

That’s worst case as the error is composed of a fixed and a variable contribution but it will be much worse at low end than high, always

[jsrnsis]

20230523_144645.jpg (201.31 KiB) Viewed 401 times

I can't find any info on this thing, does anyone know what this is?
1994 non turbo 20 valve.

And I now have a Tekton inch-pound torque wrench. I'd really like some type of split-beam or higher quality wrench but they're a bit out of my price range. I have a pretty bad track record with shearing off bolt heads.

[BlackBart]

That may be some secret NASA hardware on yours.


Glad to hear from other Over-Tighteners! I trust my nice Snap-On clicker wrench (bought in a moment of weakness while in the truck). It goes from 20-100. My son needed a torque wrench for work recently and we happened through an Ace Hardware. There was a $100 Craftsman clicker wrench at $55 off (!). Weekend special, one left, we grabbed it.

[abscate]

20230523_144645.jpg

I can't find any info on this thing, does anyone know what this is?
1994 non turbo 20 valve.

And I now have a Tekton inch-pound torque wrench. I'd really like some type of split-beam or higher quality wrench but they're a bit out of my price range. I have a pretty bad track record with shearing off bolt heads.

Thats either really early version of Supplemental Air System (SAS), Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR), or an early Crankcase Ventilation system. I would guess the latter, of the three

[CIK7]

I really love everyones knowledge! I appreciate all of you. Abscate's last response prompted that.

[bmdubya1198]

Looks EGR-related, but it's going to the valve cover... hmm... maybe a heater for the PCV?

[jsrnsis]

Thats either really early version of Supplemental Air System (SAS), Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR), or an early Crankcase Ventilation system. I would guess the latter, of the three

https://www.bostonvolvocarsparts.com/p/ ... 07813.html

I really thought these earlier cars didn't have SAS. Even then, I don't understand the benefit pumping air from the engine bay right next to the battery tray directly into the cylinder head. Unless there's some extra passages to parts unknown that I'll find when I pop the cam cover off.

I definitely remember the other NA models I've looked at just having the regular SAS that goes into the exhaust or nothing at all. I guess I'm "blessed" with SAS, EGR, and VVIS.

[brunocerous]

I heard scraping that came from Blue Steel’s brakes while driving to work today. When I got home, three of the discs had a band where the brake pad didn’t seem to be making contact. I also felt heat coming off them, with temps around 150-185 degrees F. The fourth disc was a relatively cool 78 degrees.

I had initially thought it was time for new brakes, but is it possible I have three stuck calipers?

1997 Volvo V70 brake disc

IMG_6881.jpeg (335.21 KiB) Viewed 366 times

[abscate]

Those temps I would guess you have one stuck caliper with no braking action.

150-180 disc temps is pretty normal

[scot850]

Well finally got the main dash back in yesterday with all 4 firewall bolts working, then promptly removed it again as the connector for the light sensor in the middle of the dash had fallen down behind the dash where I couldn't get to it!!

On the third attempt, hopefully it is in there for good now!

Tightened the firewall bolts to 8NM, then the steering wheel airbag bolts to 10Nm/7 ft/lb.

The re-installed the steering wheel (40Nm/30 ft/lb), dash pad, center console, the ECC, and anything else I thought might be needed to see if the car would re-start after removing the alarm and remote start system. Everything was only installed far enough to allow wires to be connected.

I had to remove the aftermarket Viper Remote start/Immobilizer as the installers had covered it in tape and wired across the multiplug for the dashboard preventing removal. I had to remove it to find where wires went, Took some photos of connectors and removed it. Reconnecting was a trial and I have to managed to re-install it under the dash. No point until I see if the car started!

Reconnected the battery and pulled the fuel pump fuse so I could turn the engine over a few times to build oil pressure as it has been sitting for 7 months. Put the fuse back in and the car started immediately on first key turn!! Now it probably will never start again, but I quit while ahead for the day.

Tomorrow all the dash screws can go back in , the radio, the steering column surround, glove box and screw the center console in. Finally re-install the passenger side under dash panel and light, before looking at the re-fitting of the alarm module under the dash on the drivers' side. That is my biggest issue as my round, large and crinkly form is not keen to twist upside-down trying to do that. May have to pull the driver's set to give better access!

Still also have to re-fit the wiper motor but will have to lube the shafts first as they look rusted.

Neil.