Engine died while driving and won't start. Topic is solved

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 09 May 2020, 09:05

I think it's time to get all that cleaned up and replace the cam seals, it just might fix this.

Post by **erikv11** » 09 May 2020, 10:42

bmdubya1198 wrote: 09 May 2020, 09:05 I think it's time to get all that cleaned up and replace the cam seals, it just might fix this.

lol. just maybe.

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 09 May 2020, 13:27

erikv11 wrote: 09 May 2020, 00:49 It's not weird at all if the cam seal is blown. Which it is.

So your saying a blown cam seal would shut the engine down while driving? And cause the stumbling even though I can now start it with regularity?

Post by **erikv11** » 09 May 2020, 15:59

Yes, definitely. Even with the cam seal blown out you still only get intermittent oil and moisture into the distributor cap. Can happen any time, can improve if the moisture dries up or the oil drains out the weep hole in the cap, etc. When oil/moisture gets on the cap electrodes, no spark can jump so the engine stumbles and/or dies.

When I got my 98 V70 the PCV was a cloggy coked up nightmare and I had a rear intake cam seal that blew continuously, got accustomed to the symptoms. For yours It may not be enough to just re-seat it, may need to get a new seal. Corteco only on those, the Elring seals will be popped back out in six months. If you do re-seat it dry to dry up the excess oil around the seating edges.

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 09 May 2020, 16:39

erikv11 wrote: 09 May 2020, 15:59 Yes, definitely. Even with the cam seal blown out you still only get intermittent oil and moisture into the distributor cap. Can happen any time, can improve if the moisture dries up or the oil drains out the weep hole in the cap, etc. When oil/moisture gets on the cap electrodes, no spark can jump so the engine stumbles and/or dies.

When I got my 98 V70 the PCV was a cloggy coked up nightmare and I had a rear intake cam seal that blew continuously, got accustomed to the symptoms. For yours It may not be enough to just re-seat it, may need to get a new seal. Corteco only on those, the Elring seals will be popped back out in six months. If you do re-seat it dry to dry up the excess oil around the seating edges.

Thank you for your explanation, makes complete sense. I just ordered SKF seals after a ton of research from members that detail SKF manufacturing OEM Volvo parts without the premium Volvo "brand" $.

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 21 May 2020, 14:54

**UPDATE**
Success! Replaced both rear cam seals, both were blown out (literally fell out), didn't have to use the "2 screws" technique for seal removal. She's running great now! No stumble/stutter/stall and no wandering idle which has been an annoying issue for years.

Now...I'm asking if its time to replace the PCV because I do have clogged symptoms but will recheck to confirm.

Thank you for all the great troubleshooting recommendations and guidance.

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 21 May 2020, 15:11

TOOL TIP...I didn't have a 36mm socket to drive the cam seal in place so I found that a 1 1/2" schedule 40 PVC tube (had a 4' piece) worked great, perfect diameter to seat the seal.

Post by **erikv11** » 21 May 2020, 16:25

Now that the rear of the cams is sealed, do a glove test to check out the health of PCV. If it is bad (lots of positive pressure) which seems likely from what you have posted, I would run it with the oil dipstick dislodged until you can fix the PCV. Will save from blowing out the new cam seals. Be sure to clean out the passages from the oil trap into the block.

Those SKF seals will probably have decent longevity but Corteco makes the cam seals in the blue Volvo box. This is a great example of the dangers of groupthink and how untruths deployed just right (by the right people in the right time and place) can become "fact." It can be hard to trace the online labyrinth.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 21 May 2020, 20:01

Yup, I used to use SKF seals, and while they last, I prefer the Corteco cam seals. You can see where they shave off the "Volvo" name. Haven't had any leak in the several cars I've used them in, however the SKF seals I installed in my old '98 GLT were leaking after a year or so.

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 29 May 2020, 14:56

Did the glove test yesterday, got the "high 5" when I goosed the engine so its looks like a PCV replacement...$265 at IPD? dang! I also pulled the dipstick after replacing the cams seals, I don't drive far even when I go out. Still running great and no CE light which has been illuminated for 5 years.