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850 95 Dipstick rusted shut

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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ToriWhite
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850 95 Dipstick rusted shut

Post by ToriWhite »

I checked my oil level a few months ago, had some rusty sludge and thought nothing of it, maybe air pressure or something spontaneously manifested moisture in there. I go to check my oil again but the stick is rusted in place and the handle's popped right off. What could this be indicative of?

If I remember correctly, this could indicate a cracked engine block, where the coolants mixing with the oil - which would also mean my engines very quickly on track to becoming a very large paperweight, right?

Any clarification or links for further reading appreciated, Thanks!

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Do you drive the car much? A lot of short runs produce condensation in the engine. If you do not get the engine good and warm then you are likely to get condensation/rust. The 850 dipstick is known to break. You can remove it by removing the whole tube. I think on the 850 there is one either 10mm or more likely 12mm headed bolt on the front of the tube bracket into the manifold and then it can be removed complete.

You can then remove the dipstick by forcing it out of the top from the bottom.

The replacement dipstick I think is different so you need the tube and the dipstick. Make sure to get both parts correctly as the markings for levels are different.

Removing the tube will allow you to see if there is water in the oil. If there is, are you losing coolant? If so it may only be the radiator leaking into the oil cooler pipes if it is a turbo.

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

Like Neil says, probably you can just replace the tube-dipstick combo.
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ToriWhite
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Post by ToriWhite »

scot850 wrote: 29 Jun 2022, 18:45 Do you drive the car much? A lot of short runs produce condensation in the engine.
...
Removing the tube will allow you to see if there is water in the oil. If there is, are you losing coolant? If so it may only be the radiator leaking into the oil cooler pipes if it is a turbo.
It is not a turbo, Base model manual
Have had the same ~ 15m weekly commute for 3 years, this has only been apparent the last 3 months. I checked the coolant from the reservoir, it doesn't look lower, but would it even be noticeable? How would I be able to tell from taking the tube off? (Also, if I take the tube off, is it just going to start peeing oil out its new hole?)

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Post by Sveedy »

So when did you last change the oil ? If you have coolant in the oil, I'd think you see it at that point. Frankly it seems like you'd have to have a lot of coolant in there to cause a rust problem. Like Scot850 mentioned - condensation most likely.
Unbolting the dipstick tube and pulling it won't cause you to lose any oil. The stick protrudes out of the tube a bit, and the O-ring is even further up on the tube end.
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Post by foggydogg »

ToriWhite wrote: 30 Jun 2022, 16:55
scot850 wrote: 29 Jun 2022, 18:45 Do you drive the car much? A lot of short runs produce condensation in the engine.
...
Removing the tube will allow you to see if there is water in the oil. If there is, are you losing coolant? If so it may only be the radiator leaking into the oil cooler pipes if it is a turbo.
It is not a turbo, Base model manual
Have had the same ~ 15m weekly commute for 3 years, this has only been apparent the last 3 months. I checked the coolant from the reservoir, it doesn't look lower, but would it even be noticeable? How would I be able to tell from taking the tube off? (Also, if I take the tube off, is it just going to start peeing oil out its new hole?)
If the level in the coolant tank hasn't changed, I think you're OK there, it is likely just condensation.
+1 what Neil said; unless you can find a good dipstick at a junkyard, you will need the tube assembly. The oil level in the pan is lower than the bottom of the tube. If you haven't done so in a while, get a new gasket for the oil fill cap, that could help keep condensation down.
Regardless of the miles, if the oil hasn't been changed in some time, this might be a good time for a maintenance cycle.
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Post by foggydogg »

My old 850 had developed that crusty look at the top of the dipstick, I cleaned it up and put fresh o-rings on it - and the fill cap gasket - and that solved the problem.
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
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97 850T5 project
98 V70R, Junkyard rescue
98 V70GLT x2, parts cars
00 V70xc x2, both now dead
62 122s four door, 2l, FI head, discs up front, ipd swaybars
56 445 Duett basket project
1950 Studebaker 2R10 flatbed, T9 crashbox

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Post by abscate »

If you are pulling the dipstick and tube, definitely replace the o-rings if you aren’t replacing it with new
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Post by foggydogg »

The o-ring/gasket at the bottom of the tube seems to be the same part number through the years, but as mentioned, there is an engine number break on the dipstick itself. When you get the assembly out of the car, you may be able to get rough with the remnant piece, and once the tube is cleaned up, just replace the dipstick itself.
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
94 850 Turbo, T-boned, ambulance for me, crusher for it
97 850T5 project
98 V70R, Junkyard rescue
98 V70GLT x2, parts cars
00 V70xc x2, both now dead
62 122s four door, 2l, FI head, discs up front, ipd swaybars
56 445 Duett basket project
1950 Studebaker 2R10 flatbed, T9 crashbox

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