Hey guys, I need some advice on where to go next.
I have a 1990 240 wagon, B230F engine, the transmission is current off the vehicle (M47). I just finished replacing the rear main seal and the oil pan seal. The engine will no longer turn clockwise, it goes about a half a rotation on the crankshaft then binds. It turns freely counterclockwise (was I dumb for trying counter clockwise?)
Any tips on where to go next? I thought this was a clearance/non interference engine,but maybe I messed something up by going counter clockwise a bit while I torqued the flywheel bolts?
My thoughts would be to first check the timing, then pull the pan again (not looking forward to that) to see if the oil pump still turns freely and to make sure the black plastic tube (i think it ces down from the pcv/breather box) didn't break off or something.
This a car for me to have fun and learn something working on, not a daily driver, so feel free to school me...I'm here to learn.
1990 240 B230F engine wont turn
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Flyingfish
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- volvolugnut
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I believe this should be a non interference engine, but that will only apply when the timing is correct. Turning CCW may have caused the timing to change as the timing belt got looser at the tensioner.
Remove the front timing belt covers and start the timing process. You may have to remove the timing belt and get the camshaft closer to correct to get the engine to turn CW.
Unless you tried to crank with starter or really torqued CCW, I think you may have did no harm.
volvolugnut
Remove the front timing belt covers and start the timing process. You may have to remove the timing belt and get the camshaft closer to correct to get the engine to turn CW.
Unless you tried to crank with starter or really torqued CCW, I think you may have did no harm.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
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2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
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And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
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Flyingfish
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I like your optimism. I'm out of town for another week or so, checking the timing will be my first thing to check.
I did unfortunatly use the starter to crank it. I'll update when I get back to it.
I did unfortunatly use the starter to crank it. I'll update when I get back to it.
- volvolugnut
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If you bent a valve or two, just replace with used valves. Pulling the head is straight forward. Find a paper manual (Haynes is common) if you do not have one. Don't buy any parts until you know what you have done. You will learn much in the process.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
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Flyingfish
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 16 January 2020
- Year and Model: 1990 240DL Wagon
- Location: MO
- Has thanked: 3 times
Update: I checked the timing and everything is lined up. Looking at the cam and valve setup I don't see where pulling the valve cover is going to tell me much or how a valve would collide only when rotating clockwise.
I also pulled the plugs and it is definitely a hard stop rayher than just compression, but no metallic sound.
Given the crank can be turned counter-clockwise, and the cam/valve setup doesn't seem to have a way the valves could be out of sync simply by rotating the wrong way, I'm thinking this must have to do with how I aligned that drain/vent hose for the breather box when I reinstalled the oil pump and pan.
I'm thinking my next step is to remove the pan and see if I that drain tube is interfering.
I also pulled the plugs and it is definitely a hard stop rayher than just compression, but no metallic sound.
Given the crank can be turned counter-clockwise, and the cam/valve setup doesn't seem to have a way the valves could be out of sync simply by rotating the wrong way, I'm thinking this must have to do with how I aligned that drain/vent hose for the breather box when I reinstalled the oil pump and pan.
I'm thinking my next step is to remove the pan and see if I that drain tube is interfering.
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Flyingfish
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 16 January 2020
- Year and Model: 1990 240DL Wagon
- Location: MO
- Has thanked: 3 times
Solved: I pulled the pan, then tried to hand turn the engine with the oil pump installed. I had apparently bent the bracket that is supposed to keep the PCV drain from hitting the lobe of the crankshaft. The bracket was now hitting the bottom of the connecting rod right next to the bolt that holds it to the crankshaft. Turning CCW the connecting rod would push the bracket out of the way.
Bent it back, reinstalled the pump and it turns over normally.
Thanks for the help amd troubleshooting volvolugnut!
Bent it back, reinstalled the pump and it turns over normally.
Thanks for the help amd troubleshooting volvolugnut!
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