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Post by **MrAl** » 25 Oct 2022, 12:22

Hello,

Today the car stalled out when i went to drive home from the store about 2 miles from here.
It went fine going there, when i got done shopping i came out to the car, started it up, and about 10 to 20 feet later it stalled. Tried to restart, no luck. Later when the tow truck guy came it started right up again, ran smooth. I had it towed anyway because it is so unreliable now.

This is the very same symptom it had before i brought it in for that $2800 dollar repair.
I called a garage i use they said they dont work on old European cars anymore.
I got the car towed home and it starts and seems to run smooth again. I was able to park it in the driveway no problem.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

Thanks.

Post by **matthew1** » 25 Oct 2022, 12:26

Battery terminals/connections. Ground. Fuel pump and relay.

Post by **Chuck W** » 25 Oct 2022, 12:41

Is it cranking and not starting, or not cranking?

There is also the main EFI relay that is mounted on the driver side of the radiator. It suffers from the same degrading connector materials as most of the connectors in the engine bay. That can also cause a crank-no start situation.

Post by **MrAl** » 25 Oct 2022, 13:35

matthew1 wrote: ↑25 Oct 2022, 12:26 Battery terminals/connections. Ground. Fuel pump and relay.

Oh ok thanks.
Yeah the two truck guy mentioned the fuel pump too. I hope that's not too big of a job?

Thanks Matt really.

Post by **scot850** » 25 Oct 2022, 13:37

I won't say it is easy, but it is easy compared to an AWD car!

Neil.

Post by **MrAl** » 25 Oct 2022, 13:38

Chuck W wrote: ↑25 Oct 2022, 12:41 Is it cranking and not starting, or not cranking?

There is also the main EFI relay that is mounted on the driver side of the radiator. It suffers from the same degrading connector materials as most of the connectors in the engine bay. That can also cause a crank-no start situation.

It cranks over really well, new battery. It almost starts, even starts for a couple seconds but sounds like it's about to stall anyway, then it stalls. Only runs for a couple seconds at best.
It's even stranger because i drove all the way there with no problems at all.

Post by **MrAl** » 25 Oct 2022, 13:39

scot850 wrote: ↑25 Oct 2022, 13:37 I won't say it is easy, but it is easy compared to an AWD car!

Neil.

Oh ok, well someone told me the gas tank has to be removed is that right?
They said the fuel pump was in the gas tank.
How much you think a garage would get for this job?
Also, how much you think the part would cost?

Post by **Goupil** » 25 Oct 2022, 13:55

If it's a FWD it's not too bad, and if it's a wagon it's even better !

You can probably get it done in an hour. This doesnt show the replacement of the fuel pump itself from the carrier (not complicated) but it gives an idea of the job
viewtopic.php?t=14484

yanga001 · Post by **yanga001** » 25 Oct 2022, 14:32

If its a stall out have you checked your vacuum tubes, especially the one on the left side of the intake manifold. Same symptoms before from a broken connector, car would stall out on start. If the pipe is broken then you can use fuel line, cant remember the guage but i used it to replace the hose and car works great.

If you can get it to start sporadically then it sounds like air as opposed to a dead fuel pump. Check your ignition coil as well to see if it went bad and all vacuum lines.

Depressurize the fuel rail and see if it repressurizes (little nipple, carefully and be very careful here, push in the nipple to drain the fuel into a cup or something). Then turn the key to the 2 position and see if it charges.

Hope its something simple.

Post by **scot850** » 25 Oct 2022, 16:35

The AWD's need the fuel tank dropped. The FWD cars have an access hatch behind the RHR seat in the floor. There is a metal cover plate that has to be removed to access it. In a wagon you have to remove the floor panels to get to it.

As the other guys say it is an easy fix. Try opening the fuel cap and have someone turn the key to position II while you have your ear close to it. Even better as was suggested, drain the fuel pressure down at the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail at the injectors. Put a cloth over it and press the valve tip in and drain down the pressure. Then have the key turned and listening at the fuel filler you should hear the pump priming. If it is, then the pump is working as is the relay when they are cold. Try jumping the relay and see if that helps the car to start and run if it stalls out on you again. Both the relay and pump can crap out on you when they get warmed up and may start working again once they cool down.

Last think, if it stalls out on you, try removing the MAF connector and see if it starts. If it does, then the MAF needs cleaned or has gone bad. The bad news is aftermarket MAF's from Bosch are NLA. Only other option is used or Volvo OE (very expensive).

Hopefully something simple.

Neil.