Leaking transmission sump on 2000 S70

jmartin919 · Post by **jmartin919** » 28 Feb 2024, 12:31

Trying to figure out where my transmission is leaking and it looks to me like it's the sump cover. Is there a write up somewhere on how to remove and reseal this?

Post by **Clemens** » 29 Feb 2024, 14:27

no idea about a writeup, but are you sure it's not the driveshaft seals or oil from the turbo? The sump seal usually is not the problem.

Post by **scot850** » 29 Feb 2024, 14:48

This is a manual trans isn't it? Not familiar with manual trams on the P80 so will be of no help. If it is an auto then there are some leaking issues like seals and even rust holes in the covers.

I can't remember it if was foggydogg or firefox that I think had a cover that had a pin-hole in it.

Neil.

jmartin919 · Post by **jmartin919** » 29 Feb 2024, 16:35

It's an automatic. Best I can tell it's leaking just above the temp sensor. I first noticed it when I saw a drop hanging on the bottom of the sensor. I was at a junk yard today and thought I would see what was involved in removing that cover. I was able to remove all of the bolts except two. I only had a stubby T40 bit to work with so I think with a longer, thin Torx wrench or bit I can get the other two. No sign of rust on my cover. The one at the yard had a label on it. Mine doesn't but it has a large "80" written in white marker on it. If I do pull this cover what should I reseal it with? Looks like what was last used was red. I have that anaerobic stuff left over from when I did the oil pan.

rrres · Post by **rrres** » 01 Mar 2024, 07:34

I used MVS member FlyingVolvo's write up when I removed the sump on mine.

jmartin919 · Post by **jmartin919** » 01 Mar 2024, 08:21

Only write up I see from him is on the oil pan/sump of the engine.

rrres · Post by **rrres** » 01 Mar 2024, 08:46

jmartin919 wrote: 01 Mar 2024, 08:21 Only write up I see from him is on the oil pan/sump of the engine.

oh, that sump! You're right. I was confusing my sumps.

Post by **chrafael** » 01 Mar 2024, 10:09

On my '98, I could get the pan off by lifting the motor about three inches. Remove the airbox and the power brake hose, battery tray, main tcm harness from trans, intercooler pipe if equipped, upper torque link completely, dipstick tube, and trans cooler lines. Take care with the square o-ring on that line as I don't know where to get a new one. That should give you a clear shot from above. From below, remove front torque link completely, front and rear motor mount bolts from below, and passenger side motor mount bolts Use a 2x6 or 2x8 to pad the engine oil pan while you lift. Lift everything enough to get those two torx screws out. You may need to lift a little more because the trick isn't getting those bolts out, but to have enough room to get the pan out around the valve body. I used and totally recommend a Duraprene/Farpak gasket. They are cheap and very tough, just hard to find. Lastly, if you think you might ever have to go in there again, replace those torx screws with regular hardware store cap screws. That will give you a heck of a lot more options of wrenches to use. I slipped small magnets in my sockets which made offering up and starting the screws much easier. I've never tried the drop the subframe method so I can't say which is easier. If you intend to glue it instead, I've used Hondabond on case halves and other things and it also is good stuff. No leaks.

jmartin919 · Post by **jmartin919** » 01 Mar 2024, 11:08

OK great thank you. You mention using a Duraprene gasket. Is this actually a gasket or a liquid sealant? The Volvo parts breakdown doesn't show a gasket and it looks like mine has red sealant.

Post by **chrafael** » 01 Mar 2024, 11:51

Yes, it is an actual neoprene fabric reinforced gasket.I believe it was about seven dollars for mine. The liquid sealants like Hondabond works great, but requires a perfectly clean, dry gasket surface which isn't always possible while working under the car. The Duraprene/Farpak (brand name) piece works well regardless of whether it is are glued or not.