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Car won't start sometimes, then runs fine Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
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Radler
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Car won't start sometimes, then runs fine

Post by Radler »

Hello. As I mentioned on another thread, I recently bought a used 1999 V70 2.4 168HP. In general it runs great, but I have the following issue already since I bought it: sometimes the engine won't start until the 2nd or 3rd attempt.
  • It cranks well (I recently replaced the battery) and after it starts it runs smooth.
  • When it doesn't start it doesn't sound like it will; it sounds to me like a spark/fuel related problem. When it starts it does it almost immediately, no need to crank for more than 1 second.
  • It never stalls while driving or at traffic lights, so it doesn't sound to me like a defect fuel relay.
  • It does it also when I try to start the car with a warm engine.
  • Today I noticed while cranking the check engine light. It doesn't stay on after the engine starts.
  • When it starts it generally doesn't stall, so I don't think it has to do with the immo or the key reader. Still, I tried with all 3 keys I have and the problem persists.
  • Yesterday it stalled once after I started it and the up-right arrow on the cluster was on (I think this arrow has something to do with low-gears on the gearbox?).
I live in Germany and it is pretty cold here right now, but as I say this also happens when I make a stop (e.g. at the gas station) after driving for a while and with a warm engine. Does anyone have an idea of what the problem can be?

jmartin919
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Post by jmartin919 »

Fuel pump relay?
'00 S70 GLT SE
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coop
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Post by coop »

If it’s not happening once it warms up over freezing it’s the fpr

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Radler
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Post by Radler »

It also happens when the engine is warm. In most of the fuel pump relay threads I read that the car would also stall while running, which has not happened to me (yet). I may buy one of these relays anyway just in case.

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Clemens
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Post by Clemens »

do not get aftermarket relays. Get OE only!
Summer: 1996 855 R
Winter: 1994 855 T5M
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foggydogg
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Post by foggydogg »

Radler wrote: 19 Feb 2025, 08:40 It also happens when the engine is warm. In most of the fuel pump relay threads I read that the car would also stall while running, which has not happened to me (yet). I may buy one of these relays anyway just in case.
If the relay is original to the car it will do no harm to replace it as a routine maintenance item anyway; the coils and contacts do not age well on our cars.
Febi and Meyle both seem to have made those relays through the years for Volvo, and some boxed as K.A.E brand also have been found with the Volvo imprint, so they are out there as new-old-stock, but getting hard to find now. In the States that part through the dealer is also getting scarce - the youngest of the P80s are twenty now. Pro Parts Sweden and URO have poor reputations, so should be avoided.
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Clemens
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Post by Clemens »

wasn't there a way to resolder/fix them?
I might be wrong, but someone of our regulars pipped one open and there was corrosion visible. The elements inside were regular electronic components that one could replace.
Summer: 1996 855 R
Winter: 1994 855 T5M
Donor: 1995 854 10V

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Radler
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Post by Radler »

Clemens wrote: 21 Feb 2025, 17:16 wasn't there a way to resolder/fix them?
I might be wrong, but someone of our regulars pipped one open and there was corrosion visible. The elements inside were regular electronic components that one could replace.
From what I read in other threads the problem normally lays on the capacitors, and a on-the-road solution would be to take out the relay and bridge pins 15 to 87 and 87 to 30

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jreed
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Post by jreed »

I've had two or three of them fail for cracked solder joints.
There are some photos here:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33696
and here:
viewtopic.php?t=101095&start=10
I always keep a jumper in the back of the car in case the fuel pump relay fails again. You only need to jump between Pins 15 and 87... see the immortal words of one of the gurus/moderator Ozark Lee here: viewtopic.php?t=18663
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

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Radler
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Post by Radler »

Thank you! An original relay from a scrapyard is on its way, but I'll try to get mine repaired to keep it as a spare.

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