AC zip tie fix for other style compressor?

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 11 Jun 2025, 08:31

I have this type of AC

and not the one where commonly the zip ties are used

So for my variant. How do I apply the zip ties?

Post by **Krons** » 13 Jun 2025, 16:05

Doesn’t look possible, I wonder if you can shim the clutch like other compressors?

Post by **vtl** » 14 Jun 2025, 09:53

Need to pull the clutch, there're a couple of shims (make sure you drop them and spend good two hours trying to find where did they go). Remove one, so the gap is around 0.6 mm.

Can inspect the bearing and replace if needed. Or just replace.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 15 Jun 2025, 02:37

Can the compressor be moved around like that with the system full?

In VIDA it says

I can tell just from a visual inspection that the gap is wider than 0.5mm on my AC. Actual measurement showed on engine off(cool engine 25c), ambient temp 25c that clutch gap was around 0.75mm, maybe 0.8 but 0.75 was closer.

There is also a nice video of someone pulling this exact AC

Post by **vtl** » 15 Jun 2025, 07:16

dikidera wrote: 15 Jun 2025, 02:37 Can the compressor be moved around like that with the system full?

Of course it can.

dikidera wrote: 15 Jun 2025, 02:37 I can tell just from a visual inspection that the gap is wider than 0.5mm on my AC. Actual measurement showed on engine off(cool engine 25c), ambient temp 25c that clutch gap was around 0.75mm, maybe 0.8 but 0.75 was closer.

You need to remove one shim.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 15 Jun 2025, 09:13

Do you think I can only remove the compressor's bolts slightly, to move it more towards the bumper and work from underneath the car? In the videos I saw the guy removed PS pump, alternator and then compressor. I can do it, but it does seem quite a lot of work to get access to the clutch. I do have access even now, I just can't prop the clutch not to spin so I can give my spanner a nice hit from the hammer and get the 10mm bolt loose.

Post by **vtl** » 15 Jun 2025, 09:31

Yeah, you can try it from below. Protect the radiator with cardboard if you happen to pull the fan.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 16 Jun 2025, 10:08

Today I was able to see VIDA real-time data. A few funky things are to be noted.

When the compressor works, CCM Evap Temp is 3.5 degrees celsius. At idle with the compressor running, pressure was kind of ok at 1900 kpa, but as soon as I give it gas and kept it at 2000-2500rpm, it started to climb 2500, 2700, 3000(435 psi or 30 bar)kpa and then the compressor shuts off, but not only that, the pressure seems to drop slowly, very slowly and every time the compressor tried to ran, and pressure dropped barely to 2800, it spiked to say 2900-3000 and compressor stops, so it tries to run for a split second, but gets an overpressure condition. And because the compressor isn't circulating whatever it is circulating, the evaporator temperature climbs to 20c or more.

Interestingly, somehow, if I stop AC and let pressure fall to 1400kpa and turn the AC on at idle, it seems to maintain a healthy range of 1900-2200 kpa and does not climb, producing strong and consistent cold air.

BUUT, sometimes the AC works for a whole drive cycle, so either the system is overfilled or the AC pressure sensor is bad.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 20 Jun 2025, 03:28

It will have to wait, the clutch gap I mean. I failed to react in time with the new information and sadly the AC radiator developed a massive leak because of the overpressure. I will now need a new radiator and maybe evaporator, who knows.

Post by **vtl** » 20 Jun 2025, 10:20

Evaporator is very sturdy, and it is behind the expansion valve. I doubt you did any damage to it. The radiator on the other hand is exposed to debris and eventually gets damaged to the point of leak.