Volvo s60 2.5t doesn't run with MAF sensorn connected Topic is solved

[ArthurHyde]

So a few weeks ago my car broke down. At first, I thought it had something to do with the fuel system because the car would start for about 3 seconds and then cough and die. After finding no clear fault with the fuel system, I decided to disconnect the MAF, and lo and behold, it started. Of course, I thought "Hah, what an easy fix, I'll just buy a new MAF" Well that didn't work, still the exact same symptom with the new sensor.

Then I thought it could have something to do with the oxygen sensor so I did some googling and a common issue with oxygen sensors is that the heating element can break and you can check that with a multimeter by looking at the resistance between the heating element wires. The resistance is 4.1 ohms and I think that is normal.

So for the last few weeks, I have been driving with the MAF disconnected but I have no boost pressure and very slow throttle response as a result.

I'm completely out of ideas as to what it can be so I would really appreciate some ideas.

[erikv11]

If the new MAF is a cheap-o then right out of the box it may well not work at all. Do you know what brand it is? Bosch and Pierburg should be good, unsure about others.

It is also worth checking for a large vacuum leak as the root cause. Could be anywhere so start with careful visual inspection for bent, torn, crumbling or dislodged vacuum hoses, but especially check the pathway of the large boost hoses. They can become dislodged at connections or split open.