Having a difficult time locating a tutorial/ video on this project. After refurbished the struts, put new tire on and found the tie rods needed replacing. Naturally when pulling the boots back to remove inners discovered fluid within leading to rack replacement. While at it the control arms were determined to be in need of replacement as bushings were busted loose. And while we’re at it the engine mounts are a little spongy so there’s that. All the parts but one have arrived before the storm runs over us, and now I’m thinking we basically have everything going to be disconnected from the subframe at some point and wouldn’t in make sense to do those bushings now. Just OE ,factory quality, no polyurethane, with I guess new bolts. The old ones came out fine and I see they should not be reused. Can anyone steer me to some good write ups on this aspect of the project. At 206k this refresh will take the car well into the next owners tenure I would think which is my goal at this point.
Happy and Healthy New Year to all and thanks as always. Peter
99 v70 front subframe bushing replacement
- ZionXIX
- Posts: 1309
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- Year and Model: 1996 850 Turbo S/W
- Location: Texas
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The stock subframe bushings are surrounded by a plastic sleeve. You have to break that sleeve to get them out. Some people have been luck and can just hammer the bushings out. I have to use a flat blade screw drive as a chisel and hammer it through the plastic sleeve. After that they hammered out easily. When reinstalling I used the sub frame bolt to pull them in. Apply plenty of grease.pfmet wrote: ↑24 Jan 2026, 16:34 Having a difficult time locating a tutorial/ video on this project. After refurbished the struts, put new tire on and found the tie rods needed replacing. Naturally when pulling the boots back to remove inners discovered fluid within leading to rack replacement. While at it the control arms were determined to be in need of replacement as bushings were busted loose. And while we’re at it the engine mounts are a little spongy so there’s that. All the parts but one have arrived before the storm runs over us, and now I’m thinking we basically have everything going to be disconnected from the subframe at some point and wouldn’t in make sense to do those bushings now. Just OE ,factory quality, no polyurethane, with I guess new bolts. The old ones came out fine and I see they should not be reused. Can anyone steer me to some good write ups on this aspect of the project. At 206k this refresh will take the car well into the next owners tenure I would think which is my goal at this point.
Happy and Healthy New Year to all and thanks as always. Peter
Here are some video references.
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle
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pfmet
- Posts: 134
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- Year and Model: V70 1999
- Location: SE CT
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Thanks for the reply Zion. I’ve admired Scarlet for a while now and note you’ve done a lot of work on her. Your photo is what I’ve pictured in my future with the subframe. I’ll let you know how it goes. Need a recommendation on an SMI steering rack replacement as well actually. Going to start another thread I guess to hopefully arouse more interest. I’d be thankful for your thoughts.
- ZionXIX
- Posts: 1309
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- Year and Model: 1996 850 Turbo S/W
- Location: Texas
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Part of that subframe job was replacing the steering rack. I purchased the cheapest "new" rack on rock auto. I haven't put a lot of miles on it yet but it works. Biggest problem I found was moving the captive bolts from the old rack to the new one. They look like small wheel hub bolts that are press fit eith splints. I ended up cracking the housing for one of the bolts during installation. I just finished the installation regardless and hasn't given me any problems so far.
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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- Joined: 17 February 2013
- Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
- Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
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Definitely put 30 seconds of heat on those rack nuts bolts , bring careful with the flame, before zipping off.
New nuts are cheap, too, right from Volvo and FCP.
My Indy loves working on my cars since he notes I always replace hardware
New nuts are cheap, too, right from Volvo and FCP.
My Indy loves working on my cars since he notes I always replace hardware
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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pfmet
- Posts: 134
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- Location: SE CT
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Been distracted by failing snow removal equipment. Stupid little stuff but it all takes time and causes unnecessary stress especially with the future possibilities.
So thank you again Zion and abscate. And amblerman, I was considering a homemade press of the sort you describe, perhaps with a pipe nipple spacer, or I’d bet schedule 40 PVC would take that pressure. I’ll report on details .
So thank you again Zion and abscate. And amblerman, I was considering a homemade press of the sort you describe, perhaps with a pipe nipple spacer, or I’d bet schedule 40 PVC would take that pressure. I’ll report on details .
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crasbe
- Posts: 91
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- Year and Model: 02 S60, 98 V70 (EV)
- Location: Germany
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If you have access to a 3D printer or know someone with a 3D printer, you can also use my 3D printed subframe bushing tool: viewtopic.php?p=641202#p641202
It helped me and others a lot getting the bushings in without distorting or destroying the bushings.
It helped me and others a lot getting the bushings in without distorting or destroying the bushings.
Check out my 3D Printed Parts for Volvo P2 and P80 on Printables 
- Sveedy
- Posts: 2069
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- Year and Model: 96 850 Turbo
- Location: N. Arizona
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crasbe wrote: ↑28 Jan 2026, 04:21 If you have access to a 3D printer or know someone with a 3D printer, you can also use my 3D printed subframe bushing tool: viewtopic.php?p=641202#p641202
It helped me and others a lot getting the bushings in without distorting or destroying the bushings.
I'd buy one if it was available. (note to printers lurking out there)
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
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crasbe
- Posts: 91
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Unfortunately due to US import restrictions, I couldn't legally sell it to anyone in the US (only gifts up to 100$ are allowed) and shipping costs 2-4x more than the material. I don't want to become political, but I do hope matters in your country will be in order again soon :/
But there are plenty of people with 3D printers in the US who can print it for you.
But there are plenty of people with 3D printers in the US who can print it for you.
Check out my 3D Printed Parts for Volvo P2 and P80 on Printables 
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