P0327

[Vova585]

Another title should be "Auch ein blindes Huhn findet mal ein Korn".
2016 xc60 T6 4cyl Platinum R-design.
Just got a car from the dealer where new Nokian tires, alignment and bevel gear service were done. Wife drove the car home and it set there for 1 week. I decided to get a feel of yhe new tires and took it for a spin. 1 minute of out of the driveway-i got a turtle sign(I know that I am driving the way that gradmas in Buicks flip me), with message "reduced engine performance. Shortly got a "money light" as well. I turned back and placed it in garage again. Engine was sounding good without signs of misfire. I was suspecting that one of the Intercooler pipes rubbed through(common issue) but didn't want to do anything for a week.
After some time I got bored and decided to scan it. It came back with P0372 (knock sensor 1 circut low input). I was puzzled for a some time since I never had knock sensor actually get bad on me. Engine was sounding great as well, but software sure changed the gear/boost presets so te car was "turtle".
Knock sensor was inspected and found to be securely attacked. Knock sensor connector was free of oxidation. Executive decision was made to erase the code and it runs great now for about 200miles.

[matthew1]

Another title should be "Auch ein blindes Huhn findet mal ein Korn".

Love it

How old is the battery?

[Vova585]

I guess I should rename the title "hopes and dreams" I took wife's for a short spin, and after 12 minutes of driving it rewarded me with "turtle" sign and reduced engine performance again. After car was parked for 1 hour, it started like a champ and sign disappeared. This time it occurred for a shorter period of time so no check engine was set. Upon checking memory it still showed P0327(was erased prior). No misfires, trims are ok overall as well.
I planning to remove the sensor and clean the mating surface. Torque to speq sensor. Clean the connector with electric dioxide spray. Try to erase code and drive. If that would not help- will fire the parts cannon and put new oem sensor.
Regardless of battery- both main and "kicker" are original to the car from 2016. Both are agm and both tested at 85% life 1 month ago. Car sits of NOCO smart charger when not driven.
It is at 54k. Spark plugs were changed with oem at 48k(as preventative maintenance due to age)

[Vova585]

Parts cannon was fired due to inability to narrow further possible causes.
Knock sernsor was replaced. In case someone ever will need this, sensor located on the front of the engine. It is hidden more towards passenger side of the vehicle and can be seen between starter and throttle body. It is located in a way that you are unable to replace it without removing of the intake manifold or the throttle body. Due to not having a new manifold gasket I decided to go with throttle body removal aproach.
1. Lift and remove the battery cover tray(engine compartment driver side near firewall) by pressing 4 tabs and lifting it up and towards the front. It will have 2 plastic pins in the center.
2. Disconnect the positive cable and put some nonconducting material between post and terminal. (One can use a Phillips screw driver and turn the plastic screw located closer to the windshield counterclockwise and remove another plastic panel which will give you access to the negative terminal. If you are doing this, upon reassemble make sure the foam gasket is intact and plastic piece is sitted correctly, otherwise water will be coming on top of your battery. )
3. Disconnect big electrical connector from engine fan.
4. Carefully mive the plastic coolant pipe from the top of the fan shroud.
5. Look on the passenger side of the shroud towards bottom. You will see a clamping hose attachment holding the hose running there. Lift the clamp up and remove the hose from it.
6. Shroud is attached to the radiator with 2 top clamps(similar to P2), but they are way stiffer. Use plastic(preferably) trim tool to gently pry the tab on one side and lift the shroud past that clip. Repeat for the other side.
7. In order to get more "wiggle room" remove 2 triangular looking radiator holders located next to the hood locks. It is T30 i believe screw holding them after which you simply lift them up.
8. You will need all your patience here. Start moving the shroud out towards the top. It is a delicate process and room is very limited. You possibly will need to put some pressure on the plastic of the shroud to get it past metal sheet that is located on top of the radiator. I was able to remove the shroud by first lifting it up from lover support "hooks"(during reassemble please note that shroud will need to get inside of those hooks to stay stable), then passenger top corner and slowly wiggling it out. You also will need to be watching radiator hoses and push them aside to prevent damage. Luckily they are rubber. Cut a piece of cardboard and plase next to radiator to prevent damage.
9. Disconnect the air intake hose from the throttle body and Intercooler pipe. On the lower side it will use worm gear clamp which is best removed with 7mm socket on flex head wrench. On the top it will use BMW/Ford style clamp. In theory you will have to just pull on the front tab outward which will release the hold from the front and also move the side "wings" holder into lock position which will release the hold. In reality be careful not to get frustrated. Plastic trim tools might be helpful to keep side "wings" outward and use screwdriver to move the front clip out(5-6mm). Now bend the hose in the center and move clamp down. You can also bend it prior to removing the top clamp and remove hose from the Intercooler side first. Remove the hose away.
10. Look at your starter cables. If you are in the rust belt, you might see plenty of corrosion here.
Remove the cables by unscrewing 10mm and 13mm nuts. Move cables away. For reassemble, clean everything nicely with brass wire bush and remove oxidation. Apply NO-OX-Id paste tight back.
11. Remove wire connector from throttle body.
12. Get yourself articulating mirror and unscrew the 4 T30 bolts holding throttle body to the manifold. (Great opportunity to clean throttle body prior to reassemble)
13. Remove throtle body
14. Remove connector from knock sensor.
15. Remove t25 or t30 bolt holding evap(or cooling)plastic pipe located just below the knock sensor.
16. Unbolt knock sensor. 13mm long bolt.
17. inspect the connector of the knock sensor and throttle body for any damage or oxidation. Clean with electric parts cleaner spray/deox electric spray. Dry with compressed air or juat wait some time(it will evaporate quickly)
18. Inspect rubber o-ring gasket between throttle body and intake manifold-preferably replace with new if available.
19. Install new sensor and reassemble in reverve order.

[scot850]

And.............??

Did replacing the knock sensor clear the code and reduced engine performance issue permanently?

Great write up either way!

Neil.

[Vova585]

And.............??

Did replacing the knock sensor clear the code and reduced engine performance issue permanently?

Great write up either way!

Neil.

Too early to tell. Had to get it to Krown for spray and from there to dealer to fix alignment and then to detailshop to wash salt from carpets..around 25miles total and thus far no light. So I am very cautious about my success here

[scot850]

I don't think I have ever heard of a knock sensor going bad. On P80's you would get a code that said knock sensor, but it was on a circuit with a couple of other things (can't recall what now), and it was more likely to be one of those. In my case it was the altitude (?) sensor which was mounted by the RH hood latch.

I have my fingers crossed for your fix!

Neil.

[Vova585]

After almost 2 month and 1k miles, while being driven by professional racecar driver(wife), with multiple weather conditions- still no more codes. I start to be cautiously optimistic that the issue is resolved. Still having a hard time believed in was knock sensor(my first one ever that was wrong). Now it is time to prepare for blower motor replacement on this car...(thank you Ford for great design).