My friend has a 1986 760 Turbo sedan, with 136k miles on it. Lately, it has taken to stalling when she drives it. It seems to happen exclusively when she is coming to a stop, especially on hills. When it stalls, she's able to re-start it basically right away. Prior to this problem, the car typically wouldn't start easily (2-3 tries required) if it was left sitting for a week or more. She took it to a shop, they couldn't determine exactly what it was, and basically said they would just start replacing likely parts one at a time until they fixed the problem. Since it stalls intermittently, she'd have to make a lot of trips back and forth to them until it was fixed, and she's on a very, very tight budget. I'd like to help diagnose and maybe fix this myself, but all my experience is working on Hondas. These old Volvos seem to be _very_ different beasts.
Given the "it won't start easily after it sits for awhile" and "it stalls when coming to a stop" symptoms, my guess is that it's a fuel delivery issue, not spark. As such, my thought is that I would replace the fuel pump relay, fuel filter, and then fuel pumps, in that order. Does that make sense? Is there any way I can narrow that list down any more?
Many thanks in advance!
1986 760 Turbo stalling
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How To Change Your Fuel Filter: Guide, Tips, and Tricks
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Kmaniac in California USA
- Posts: 301
- Joined: 15 January 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Concord, California USA
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Sounds like your mechanic couldn't find his buttocks with both hands at high-noon on a sunny day. Typical for most mechanics I encounter, especially if they have no experience with Volvos. But this has been true for some so-called Volvo mechanics, as well.
Remove the ashtray and look at fuse #11 in the fuse box. If it is blown, you will need to replace BOTH fuel pumps (Yes, that car has two of them).
Check it out and let me know what you find.
Remove the ashtray and look at fuse #11 in the fuse box. If it is blown, you will need to replace BOTH fuel pumps (Yes, that car has two of them).
Check it out and let me know what you find.
Chris the "K MANIAC"
1986 740 GLE
(5) 1964 Chrysler 300-K's
1986 740 GLE
(5) 1964 Chrysler 300-K's
I took a look at the fuse box today, and #11 looks fine. What next?
Incidentally, according to the fuse map, #11 is for the in-tank fuel pump. If that was blown, I would expect that the pump just wouldn't work, and the car wouldn't run at all. What's with the two pumps in these cars?
Incidentally, according to the fuse map, #11 is for the in-tank fuel pump. If that was blown, I would expect that the pump just wouldn't work, and the car wouldn't run at all. What's with the two pumps in these cars?
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Kmaniac in California USA
- Posts: 301
- Joined: 15 January 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Concord, California USA
- Been thanked: 1 time
I'm going to do for you what I did for another guy within the last two weeks in this forum and post my compilation of thoughts and experiences with fuel pumps below. I have no clue about the reason for the two-pump design. But these cars will continue to run with just the main fuel pump. If you don't believe me, start your car, let it run and pull fuse #11 while its running. I suggest carrying a small rock with you and doing the rock test the next time is stalls and fails to start. The details of the rock test are contained below.
A thought: If you just bought the car, it is possible that fuse #11 blew on the previous owner and he replaced it, not knowing that the in-tank pump was dead and no longer conducting current. And now that the pump is fried, it will never blow the fuse again.
Study this carefully, check it out for yourself and let me know your thoughts and any questions.
September 3, 2004
I, too, have a 1986 740 GLE sedan with B230F (no turbo, fuel injection) and automatic transmission. It always starts and runs well when cold, but will randomly fail to start when hot. I have owned the car for two weeks (no wonder I got such a great deal on this) and this has occurred at least six times. A couple of times it restarted after 5 minutes, but once it sat for six hours until the sun went down before starting again. Sometimes when it has its fit, it sounds like is tries to fire, but then just cranks. I am waiting for the next incident to confirm whether it is lack of spark or fuel. Will keep you posted. In the last 4000 miles the car got new spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil, as well as a new in-tank fuel pump and filter sock. The fuel pump relay behind the ashtray works and clicks every time. Any suggestions from others who have experienced the same problem would be appreciated.
September 4, 2004
Well, my Volvo did it again today. At 7:00 AM and 65 F temperature, it started and drove fine as I got my morning coffee. Six hours later, after sitting in the hot California sun on this 90 F day, it failed to start in my driveway. I hooked up my inductive pick-up timing light to the ignition system and got plenty of spark on all four cylinders and the coil. Leads me to think the problem is hiding in the fuel injection system. The car has 203,200 miles on the odometer and everything associated with the fuel injection looks original, except for the fuel filter. Any ideas which parts of the fuel injection system would be affected by the heat of the sun on a hot day?!? At least I know it is not the ignition system. I will keep all posted as I progress through the fuel system.
September 6, 2004
Eureka!! I think I solved the Problem!!!
I drove my Volvo on errands this morning, ending up at the local auto parts store to purchase fuel injection pressure testing equipment. When I went to leave, it wouldn't start. It was a warm California day with the temperatures reaching into the 90's F. I sat with car for two hours trying repeatedly to start it. It would just crank. My timing light indicated strong spark. I got a ride home and returned with my tools in another vehicle. I spent another hour trying to figure out how to hook up the test equipment. Then a guy from the parts store comes out and says that he thinks it is the fuel pump. He then hands me a rock and tells me to tap on the fuel pump a few times. This should knock loose anything that might be hanging up inside the pump. So I take the rock, crawl under the car, and tapped the fuel pump about a dozen times. I get out, get into the car, turn the key and it starts right up! I immediately purchased a new replacement fuel pump, drove the car home and replaced the fuel pump. I am 99% sure that this will cure the problem. I will check back in a couple weeks to let you know how this is going.
October 1, 2004
After four weeks, the car starts first time, every time. No more starting problem. Both new fuel pumps did the trick!
Looking back, it is clear that the original in-tank pump was not working when I bought the car. I found fuse #11 blown a few days after buying the car. I replaced the in-tank pump for good measure. Since I was going into the tank to look at it, it was easier to replace at the same time than to put the old one back in. I discovered the old filter sock had deteriorated and had at least two holes in the sock. I suspect dirt entered the in-tank pump, fouling it and causing the fuse to blow. I further suspect the main fuel pump was fouled with dirt from the broken filter sock, which caused the intermittent starting.
Should you encounter a bad main fuel pump on your car, always inspect and/or replace the in-tank fuel pump, so that you can verify the condition of the filter sock. A bad or deteriorated in-tank filter sock will lead to fouling both fuel pumps with dirt. (Should you go to the trouble of taking out the in-tank pump, you may as well replace it while you got it out.)
November 17, 2004 (Response to a similar complaint)
Reading your story was like de ja vu. I had a similar problem with my 1986 740 GLE, which is documented in the "1986 740 GLE inconsistent starting" post. You can read my experiences there.
I need to point out that your car has two fuel pumps, which work in series. There is a small pump in the gas tank, known as the "in-tank" pump. The other is the main fuel pump, which is mounted together with the fuel filter, in a cradle, bolted to the underside of the car, under the driver's seat. Both pumps receive electric power through the same fuel pump relay, which is found behind the ashtray in the console. Though powered through the same relay, each pump circuit is protected by separate fuses. Also, although both pumps work in series, the operation of both pumps are not required for the car to run. The car will operate normally using the main fuel pump only. However, it will not run with just the in-tank pump only.
If you haven't done so already, check the fuse for the in-tank fuel pump. It is fuse number 11 in my 1986 740. Three days after buying my Volvo last August, I found the in-tank pump fuse blown. No telling how long this had been this way. Out of general principle, I pulled out the in-tank pump. I found the fuel pick up filter sock deteriorated with at least two holes in the sock. I suspect the deteriorated sock allowed debris to enter the pump and jam it, resulting in the blown fuse. Since I had the in-tank pump out, I replaced it and the filter sock.
My suggestion for you is to find and carry with you a rock, which is big enough to fit in your hand. The next time your car refuses to start, reach under your driver door, locate the main fuel pump, and strike the pump a few times with the rock. Then try to restart the car. If it starts right away, then your main fuel pump is the problem and should be replaced.
Please note, too, the main fuel filter is placed down stream of the main fuel pump. If the in-tank filter sock has deteriorated, unfiltered fuel will enter both the in-tank and main fuel pumps before seeing another filter. If you find that the main fuel pump needs replacement, it makes good sense to pull the in-tank pump and inspect the condition of the filter sock. And if you go to the trouble of pulling this pump, you may as well replace it and the filter sock for good measure. A new main fuel pump can be quickly destroyed by unfiltered fuel, if the in-tank fuel filter sock has deteriorated and is not replaced at the time of main fuel pump replacement.
The in-tank pump and filter sock cost me $50. The main fuel pump cost me $125. I put both in myself. Each pump took me about 4 hours of time each to replace, since this was the first time for me for each part. If you do this yourself, disconnect the fuel lines from the tank before removing the main fuel pump, to prevent the fuel from siphoning out of the tank. Work in a well ventilated area, free of ignition sources.
Another Response:
Inspection and replacement of the in-tank fuel pump is easy with a few simple tools. Check the in-tank fuel pump fuse in your fuse box. If blown, you definitely have a problem with the in-tank pump. Make sure you have less than 1/2 a tank of fuel remaining in the tank and work in a well ventilated area, free of ignition sourses. Remove the truck mat (sedan) and you will find a square hatch cover attached with four bolts. Take off this cover and you will see the fuel pick-up, pump, gauge sender unit assembly on the rear of the tank. Disconnect the hoses, unplug the power lead in the trunk and unscrew the ground lead in the trunk (the wires into the assembly don't unplug at the unit). Then unscrew the assembly retainer ring from the tank and pull the whole unit out.
Once you get this out of the car, carefully inspect the condition of the filter sock on the pick up end of the pump. If you see any deterioration or holes in this sock, I strongly suggest replacement of both fuel pumps. Also, once you get the assembly out of the tank, I highly recommend replacement of the in-tank pump and filter sock regardless of condition. You may as well, now that you got the old one that far out of the car.
I want to point out that fuel passes through the filter sock, in-tank pump, main fuel pump and main fuel filter, in that order. The filter sock is there to protect the pumps from dirt contamination. The main fuel filter protects the remainder of the fuel injection system from dirt and any debris expelled by a failing fuel pump. The filter sock is the one filter that nobody ever replaces on a routine basis.
When it comes to mechanics, most who are not Volvo trained, don't realize there are two pumps in these cars. I read one thread on this forum where a guys mechanic replaced the main fuel pump three times (once every 30 days) and kept wondering why these replacement fuel pumps were always defective. Then again, being Volvo trained doesn't necessarily mean much either. The previous owner of my car had it serviced for at least three years by an independent Volvo mechanic in the "Peoples Republic of Berkeley", California. After three weeks of reviewing the service records and working on my car, I realized that this mechanic couldn't find his rear end with both hands at high-noon.
Good luck with your car. Let me know what you find and if you have any questions.
Volvo fuel pumps and fuel filters revealed!
In case you didn't already know, your car has TWO fuel pumps and TWO fuel filters. The first filter that gasoline passes through is the filter sock on the suction end of the in-tank fuel pump, which is in the fuel tank. Fuel then passes through the in-tank pump, then the main fuel pump under the car below the drivers seat. After that, it passes through the main fuel filter, which is next to the main fuel pump.
Now, the main fuel filter (under the car) is routinely changed at service intervals and this is probably the one you claim was replaced 3 months ago. The function of the main fuel filter is to protect the fuel system components under the hood. The in-tank filter is never looked at and will degrade over time. The function of the in-tank filter is to protect the fuel pumps (both of them) from dirt contamination in the fuel. When (not if) the in-tank filter sock deteriorates, unfiltered fuel will enter both the in-tank pump and main fuel pumps. This first leads to the in-tank pump eventually jamming on the dirt and blowing the in-tank pump fuse, the only indication you will get that the pump has failed. The car will, however, appear to run just fine with a disfunctional in-tank fuel pump. Then the main fuel pump will start to degrade as more unfiltered fuel passes through it. This will cause the pump to inconsistently fail to operate, usually when the car is hot or has been shut off hot. Unfortunately, by the time the main fuel pump eventually fails from dirt intrusion, the owner has either sold or junked the car in frustration from the inconsistent starting.
Now, your probably asking how I know all this. I learned this the hard way when I bought a used Volvo real cheap from someone who was frustrated. It took me three weeks of my own frustration to figure this out on my own. Since I replaced both fuel pumps and in-tank filter sock, my Volvo has run trouble free for over a year.
If you are unsure the condition of your in-tank pump and filter sock, I suggest you pull the sender unit assembly from the tank. This is an easy job for the do-it-yourselfer. Be sure you have less than one-half a tank of fuel. Once you have it out, replace the in-tank pump and filter sock for good measure. You may as well, as long as you have it out. Inspect the condition of the filter sock. If you see any holes in it, then I also suggest you replace the main fuel pump as well, since it is mostly likely dirt contaminated.
One thing I must stress to all Volvo owners is to never replace the main fuel pump without inspecting and/or replacing the in-tank fuel pump and filter sock at the same time. I have read at least one post in this forum about someone who had his main fuel pump replaced three times, at 30-day intervals by an independent (non-Volvo trained) mechanic and couldn't figure out why the new pumps were always defective. The answer: His in-tank filter sock was deteriorated and kept passing dirt to the new main fuel pumps, causing them to fail. I am sure that many a Volvo has been sold or scrapped because of this oversite.
If you read through the posts in this forum, you will see that I harp on this subject quite a bit. I do this because I think this is more common a problem with Volvo's than most people, including experience Volvo mechanics realize. You see, if the basic parts on the back end of the fuel system don't work right, the complicated parts on the front end won't work well either. And most people assume any fuel problem is under the hood and ignore what is in the fuel tank. In fact, most people and mechanics don't realize there is a second fuel pump and filter in the tank.
Keep us posted with what you find out about your car. I always like to hear about success stories.
A thought: If you just bought the car, it is possible that fuse #11 blew on the previous owner and he replaced it, not knowing that the in-tank pump was dead and no longer conducting current. And now that the pump is fried, it will never blow the fuse again.
Study this carefully, check it out for yourself and let me know your thoughts and any questions.
September 3, 2004
I, too, have a 1986 740 GLE sedan with B230F (no turbo, fuel injection) and automatic transmission. It always starts and runs well when cold, but will randomly fail to start when hot. I have owned the car for two weeks (no wonder I got such a great deal on this) and this has occurred at least six times. A couple of times it restarted after 5 minutes, but once it sat for six hours until the sun went down before starting again. Sometimes when it has its fit, it sounds like is tries to fire, but then just cranks. I am waiting for the next incident to confirm whether it is lack of spark or fuel. Will keep you posted. In the last 4000 miles the car got new spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil, as well as a new in-tank fuel pump and filter sock. The fuel pump relay behind the ashtray works and clicks every time. Any suggestions from others who have experienced the same problem would be appreciated.
September 4, 2004
Well, my Volvo did it again today. At 7:00 AM and 65 F temperature, it started and drove fine as I got my morning coffee. Six hours later, after sitting in the hot California sun on this 90 F day, it failed to start in my driveway. I hooked up my inductive pick-up timing light to the ignition system and got plenty of spark on all four cylinders and the coil. Leads me to think the problem is hiding in the fuel injection system. The car has 203,200 miles on the odometer and everything associated with the fuel injection looks original, except for the fuel filter. Any ideas which parts of the fuel injection system would be affected by the heat of the sun on a hot day?!? At least I know it is not the ignition system. I will keep all posted as I progress through the fuel system.
September 6, 2004
Eureka!! I think I solved the Problem!!!
I drove my Volvo on errands this morning, ending up at the local auto parts store to purchase fuel injection pressure testing equipment. When I went to leave, it wouldn't start. It was a warm California day with the temperatures reaching into the 90's F. I sat with car for two hours trying repeatedly to start it. It would just crank. My timing light indicated strong spark. I got a ride home and returned with my tools in another vehicle. I spent another hour trying to figure out how to hook up the test equipment. Then a guy from the parts store comes out and says that he thinks it is the fuel pump. He then hands me a rock and tells me to tap on the fuel pump a few times. This should knock loose anything that might be hanging up inside the pump. So I take the rock, crawl under the car, and tapped the fuel pump about a dozen times. I get out, get into the car, turn the key and it starts right up! I immediately purchased a new replacement fuel pump, drove the car home and replaced the fuel pump. I am 99% sure that this will cure the problem. I will check back in a couple weeks to let you know how this is going.
October 1, 2004
After four weeks, the car starts first time, every time. No more starting problem. Both new fuel pumps did the trick!
Looking back, it is clear that the original in-tank pump was not working when I bought the car. I found fuse #11 blown a few days after buying the car. I replaced the in-tank pump for good measure. Since I was going into the tank to look at it, it was easier to replace at the same time than to put the old one back in. I discovered the old filter sock had deteriorated and had at least two holes in the sock. I suspect dirt entered the in-tank pump, fouling it and causing the fuse to blow. I further suspect the main fuel pump was fouled with dirt from the broken filter sock, which caused the intermittent starting.
Should you encounter a bad main fuel pump on your car, always inspect and/or replace the in-tank fuel pump, so that you can verify the condition of the filter sock. A bad or deteriorated in-tank filter sock will lead to fouling both fuel pumps with dirt. (Should you go to the trouble of taking out the in-tank pump, you may as well replace it while you got it out.)
November 17, 2004 (Response to a similar complaint)
Reading your story was like de ja vu. I had a similar problem with my 1986 740 GLE, which is documented in the "1986 740 GLE inconsistent starting" post. You can read my experiences there.
I need to point out that your car has two fuel pumps, which work in series. There is a small pump in the gas tank, known as the "in-tank" pump. The other is the main fuel pump, which is mounted together with the fuel filter, in a cradle, bolted to the underside of the car, under the driver's seat. Both pumps receive electric power through the same fuel pump relay, which is found behind the ashtray in the console. Though powered through the same relay, each pump circuit is protected by separate fuses. Also, although both pumps work in series, the operation of both pumps are not required for the car to run. The car will operate normally using the main fuel pump only. However, it will not run with just the in-tank pump only.
If you haven't done so already, check the fuse for the in-tank fuel pump. It is fuse number 11 in my 1986 740. Three days after buying my Volvo last August, I found the in-tank pump fuse blown. No telling how long this had been this way. Out of general principle, I pulled out the in-tank pump. I found the fuel pick up filter sock deteriorated with at least two holes in the sock. I suspect the deteriorated sock allowed debris to enter the pump and jam it, resulting in the blown fuse. Since I had the in-tank pump out, I replaced it and the filter sock.
My suggestion for you is to find and carry with you a rock, which is big enough to fit in your hand. The next time your car refuses to start, reach under your driver door, locate the main fuel pump, and strike the pump a few times with the rock. Then try to restart the car. If it starts right away, then your main fuel pump is the problem and should be replaced.
Please note, too, the main fuel filter is placed down stream of the main fuel pump. If the in-tank filter sock has deteriorated, unfiltered fuel will enter both the in-tank and main fuel pumps before seeing another filter. If you find that the main fuel pump needs replacement, it makes good sense to pull the in-tank pump and inspect the condition of the filter sock. And if you go to the trouble of pulling this pump, you may as well replace it and the filter sock for good measure. A new main fuel pump can be quickly destroyed by unfiltered fuel, if the in-tank fuel filter sock has deteriorated and is not replaced at the time of main fuel pump replacement.
The in-tank pump and filter sock cost me $50. The main fuel pump cost me $125. I put both in myself. Each pump took me about 4 hours of time each to replace, since this was the first time for me for each part. If you do this yourself, disconnect the fuel lines from the tank before removing the main fuel pump, to prevent the fuel from siphoning out of the tank. Work in a well ventilated area, free of ignition sources.
Another Response:
Inspection and replacement of the in-tank fuel pump is easy with a few simple tools. Check the in-tank fuel pump fuse in your fuse box. If blown, you definitely have a problem with the in-tank pump. Make sure you have less than 1/2 a tank of fuel remaining in the tank and work in a well ventilated area, free of ignition sourses. Remove the truck mat (sedan) and you will find a square hatch cover attached with four bolts. Take off this cover and you will see the fuel pick-up, pump, gauge sender unit assembly on the rear of the tank. Disconnect the hoses, unplug the power lead in the trunk and unscrew the ground lead in the trunk (the wires into the assembly don't unplug at the unit). Then unscrew the assembly retainer ring from the tank and pull the whole unit out.
Once you get this out of the car, carefully inspect the condition of the filter sock on the pick up end of the pump. If you see any deterioration or holes in this sock, I strongly suggest replacement of both fuel pumps. Also, once you get the assembly out of the tank, I highly recommend replacement of the in-tank pump and filter sock regardless of condition. You may as well, now that you got the old one that far out of the car.
I want to point out that fuel passes through the filter sock, in-tank pump, main fuel pump and main fuel filter, in that order. The filter sock is there to protect the pumps from dirt contamination. The main fuel filter protects the remainder of the fuel injection system from dirt and any debris expelled by a failing fuel pump. The filter sock is the one filter that nobody ever replaces on a routine basis.
When it comes to mechanics, most who are not Volvo trained, don't realize there are two pumps in these cars. I read one thread on this forum where a guys mechanic replaced the main fuel pump three times (once every 30 days) and kept wondering why these replacement fuel pumps were always defective. Then again, being Volvo trained doesn't necessarily mean much either. The previous owner of my car had it serviced for at least three years by an independent Volvo mechanic in the "Peoples Republic of Berkeley", California. After three weeks of reviewing the service records and working on my car, I realized that this mechanic couldn't find his rear end with both hands at high-noon.
Good luck with your car. Let me know what you find and if you have any questions.
Volvo fuel pumps and fuel filters revealed!
In case you didn't already know, your car has TWO fuel pumps and TWO fuel filters. The first filter that gasoline passes through is the filter sock on the suction end of the in-tank fuel pump, which is in the fuel tank. Fuel then passes through the in-tank pump, then the main fuel pump under the car below the drivers seat. After that, it passes through the main fuel filter, which is next to the main fuel pump.
Now, the main fuel filter (under the car) is routinely changed at service intervals and this is probably the one you claim was replaced 3 months ago. The function of the main fuel filter is to protect the fuel system components under the hood. The in-tank filter is never looked at and will degrade over time. The function of the in-tank filter is to protect the fuel pumps (both of them) from dirt contamination in the fuel. When (not if) the in-tank filter sock deteriorates, unfiltered fuel will enter both the in-tank pump and main fuel pumps. This first leads to the in-tank pump eventually jamming on the dirt and blowing the in-tank pump fuse, the only indication you will get that the pump has failed. The car will, however, appear to run just fine with a disfunctional in-tank fuel pump. Then the main fuel pump will start to degrade as more unfiltered fuel passes through it. This will cause the pump to inconsistently fail to operate, usually when the car is hot or has been shut off hot. Unfortunately, by the time the main fuel pump eventually fails from dirt intrusion, the owner has either sold or junked the car in frustration from the inconsistent starting.
Now, your probably asking how I know all this. I learned this the hard way when I bought a used Volvo real cheap from someone who was frustrated. It took me three weeks of my own frustration to figure this out on my own. Since I replaced both fuel pumps and in-tank filter sock, my Volvo has run trouble free for over a year.
If you are unsure the condition of your in-tank pump and filter sock, I suggest you pull the sender unit assembly from the tank. This is an easy job for the do-it-yourselfer. Be sure you have less than one-half a tank of fuel. Once you have it out, replace the in-tank pump and filter sock for good measure. You may as well, as long as you have it out. Inspect the condition of the filter sock. If you see any holes in it, then I also suggest you replace the main fuel pump as well, since it is mostly likely dirt contaminated.
One thing I must stress to all Volvo owners is to never replace the main fuel pump without inspecting and/or replacing the in-tank fuel pump and filter sock at the same time. I have read at least one post in this forum about someone who had his main fuel pump replaced three times, at 30-day intervals by an independent (non-Volvo trained) mechanic and couldn't figure out why the new pumps were always defective. The answer: His in-tank filter sock was deteriorated and kept passing dirt to the new main fuel pumps, causing them to fail. I am sure that many a Volvo has been sold or scrapped because of this oversite.
If you read through the posts in this forum, you will see that I harp on this subject quite a bit. I do this because I think this is more common a problem with Volvo's than most people, including experience Volvo mechanics realize. You see, if the basic parts on the back end of the fuel system don't work right, the complicated parts on the front end won't work well either. And most people assume any fuel problem is under the hood and ignore what is in the fuel tank. In fact, most people and mechanics don't realize there is a second fuel pump and filter in the tank.
Keep us posted with what you find out about your car. I always like to hear about success stories.
Chris the "K MANIAC"
1986 740 GLE
(5) 1964 Chrysler 300-K's
1986 740 GLE
(5) 1964 Chrysler 300-K's
Hey Chris, thanks for the detailed reply! Sorry I didn't respond sooner, I must have missed the message that the thread was updated.
Today I replaced the fuel pump relay in my friend's car. Upon inspection of the old one, I did find one cracked solder joint on it. I started up the car and it ran with the new one - always a good sign that I got the right part
However, the car seemed to idle a little roughly, like it wanted to stall. I said to my friend, does it always do that? She said, "Yeah. It started doing that when the stalling problem started." Gah! First I've heard of it. We didn't have time to take the car for a drive and see if we could get it to stall again, but I imagine I'll know if it's fixed within the next day or so.
If not, and with the addition of the rough idle symptom, I'm open to other suggestions. Chris, since I'm never the one driving the car, and when it stalls it always happens in traffic, I'm thinking that getting out and banging a rock on the fuel pump is not going to be a practical test. However, if she DOES continue to have problems getting it started when cold, I'll tell her to try that.
Someone on Volvo mailing list I joined just suggested the idle air control valve as a likely culprit. Any thoughts on this?
Today I replaced the fuel pump relay in my friend's car. Upon inspection of the old one, I did find one cracked solder joint on it. I started up the car and it ran with the new one - always a good sign that I got the right part
However, the car seemed to idle a little roughly, like it wanted to stall. I said to my friend, does it always do that? She said, "Yeah. It started doing that when the stalling problem started." Gah! First I've heard of it. We didn't have time to take the car for a drive and see if we could get it to stall again, but I imagine I'll know if it's fixed within the next day or so.If not, and with the addition of the rough idle symptom, I'm open to other suggestions. Chris, since I'm never the one driving the car, and when it stalls it always happens in traffic, I'm thinking that getting out and banging a rock on the fuel pump is not going to be a practical test. However, if she DOES continue to have problems getting it started when cold, I'll tell her to try that.
Someone on Volvo mailing list I joined just suggested the idle air control valve as a likely culprit. Any thoughts on this?
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