Front wheel wiggle, rattle, clunk (1996 850)?

mc510 · Post by **mc510** » 11 Nov 2007, 14:05

Front driver-side wheel wiggles a bit when holding it at 9:00 and 3:00, it wiggles even more when holding at 12:00 and 6:00. Same wheel makes a dull clunking noise on bumpy roads. The disk brake dust shield (at least I think that's what it is) is a little loose and rattles like crazy going over bumps. The front end is a total mystery to me (it's the one part of a car that I've never touched) and I don't see anything under the car that is obviously loose and wobbling around. Do these symptoms add up to something obvious?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 11 Nov 2007, 14:22

Sounds like a bad ball joint. Take the wheel off and move the rotor while looking at the base of the steering knuckle. Any movement there or at the back of the control arm where it meets the frame says its time for a new control arm.

Also grab the tie rod with one hand and feel for movement in either the outer or inner tied rods as your move the disk laterally.

As you move stuff around and look at the joints it becomes fairly obvious. Any movement in any of the joints is bad.

As far as the dust shield goes, just bend it away from things and make sure the bolts are tight.

...Lee

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 11 Nov 2007, 14:23

You probably at least need a new control arm on that side as well as tie rod ends (probably outer but could be inner- a good mechanic could diagnose this). Also, you could be in for swaybar endlinks, but might get by with tightening them up. Volvo front end suspension wear out no matter how anyone drives or how good the roads are. Usually the items I mention are changed out before 100K miles on most 850's as well as the struts, struts mounts and spring seats. Endlinks are known to go before 60K miles.

karageorge2 · Post by **karageorge2** » 11 Nov 2007, 20:41

Definitely sounds like a control arm (ball joint). Check to see the condition of the rubber boot at the ball joint, if slit, the ball joint is probably starting to go bad. They are hard to diagnose by wiggling the wheel unless they are totally shot. A bumpy road is your second best diagnosis tool following a mechanic that can check it on the alignment machine and put pressure on the joint while on the lift.

I just replaced my right side and the tire wiggle test didn't really tell me anything, unless of course you are a Hulk type of guy that can wiggle the schnot out of the wheel. The new control arm made a huge difference. getting ready to do the left side next.

If you do replace the control arm by yourself and have never done this type of work just letting you know that it can be a little hectic separating the ball joint from the knuckle, but sometimes they do come out easy. Some people take the bushing bolts out first then the ball joint.

Another thing to look at is the cv joint (axle) especially if you are hearing a clickity clack sound especially when turning

.

Bmetguy · Post by **Bmetguy** » 12 Nov 2007, 17:31

I had the same problem a little while ago. I went to go home from work Oct 4 while making a left hand turn the right side ball joint broke. Do go far, well actually about 150 feet at 20 mph.

It cost me $3200.00 to get it repaired, looked like the left side was just as bad, along with the CV Boots, Struts and axles on both sides. I had Merchant Tire give me a front end alignment (they never told me the ball joints were bad) and charged me $185.00 to do that.

Lesson learned - Will not go to Merchant Tire again for a front end aligment.

The symptoms of the ball joint steering wheel shaking at the same points and at highway speeds.

Good luck get it replace ASAP!!!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 12 Nov 2007, 17:44

When you say it broke off and caused over 3grand worth of repair bills, what exactly got destroyed by this? Did you wreck?

karageorge2 · Post by **karageorge2** » 12 Nov 2007, 20:16

I know what you mean. A good front end alignment person is hard to find. Its one thing to know how to use the machine and another to effectively diagnose problems. Had a good one at Just Tires but he left. Just Tires is not a bad place because they seem to let you look at whatthey are doing and talk to the mechanic.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 12 Nov 2007, 20:59

I use National Tire and Battery (NTB) and they do a a good job, but it could be specific to the guy who runs the machine too.

mc510 · Post by **mc510** » 17 Nov 2007, 17:31

Would you believe wheel bearing? I jacked the front end up to get a good look, and I just can't see any obvious movement in the ball joint/control arm. But I did find that when my wife steps on the brakes, I can no longer wiggle the wheel. Haynes diagnoses this as a bad wheel bearing, but I haven't noticed any bad-wheel-bearing rumbling noises when driving. I dunno, maybe I'm just going to have to take it in to a mechanic instead of trying to fix it myself.

Post by **pfeener** » 17 Nov 2007, 18:27

If the play goes away when you apply the brakes, it's the wheel bearing. Sometimes the bearings don't make any noise until they are totally shot. The wheel bearing should have no play in it whatsoever. So if you can feel play it's shot.