2000 S40 Electrical Problems?

jlmott · Post by **jlmott** » 18 Oct 2008, 23:12

Actually have a few problems.

The first to occur, and only occurs occasionally is that sometimes I turn the key and nothing happens. Seems to occur more frequently when I have someone with me. So I thought of getting out, locking and unlocking the door. Does not help. If I leave and come back after about 30 minutes, it starts right up.

The second occurred randomly at first but is now constant. The right turn signal flashes faster on the dash and in the back but does not flash at all in the front. I checked the bulb and fuses, they seem to be fine.

The third is that the first setting on the windshield wiper, the intermittent, does not work anymore. This happened after the turn signal quick flash/front fail became constant.

Also, I have a rattle on the front right side, sounds like under the tire, when i go over rough pavement. I understand this could be a cv joint, tie rod, or strut. How do I determine which it is?

One final item - the glass in my driver side mirror is cracked. Can I replace the glass or do I have to replace the whole assembly?

My baby has over 100k miles and I am trying to find the most cost-effective way to make her happy again. Inspection coming up and I have been neglecting this for too long.

Thanks for any advice.

shores · Post by **shores** » 19 Oct 2008, 10:37

I have a 2000 S40 with a 100,000 miles on it. I am having the same electrical problem your having on starting the car. It will start fine for months. Then one day after you stop it, and jump back in to start up, it won't turn over. I have lights, radio, horn, but it won't start. Like you said if you leave it alone for about 30 minutes to an hour, it will start again. My mechanic could not find nothing wrong with it. It has not happen for the past 6 weeks, so probably about any day now.

Also I have the popping noise in the front end. Yesterday when I turn left I am hearing a different pop now. Also there is a rattle in the front right when you hit bumps, think that might be a shock. I have had to replace the front right shock once, but it was making a lot more noise that time.

TMan · Post by **TMan** » 06 Nov 2008, 20:21

I have a similar problem. I go to start the car and it will not start. The car has power but the starter relay will not activate. I'm in the process of troubleshooting the problem. I suspect the starter switch. I will let you both know if I figure it out.

shores · Post by **shores** » 06 Nov 2008, 23:19

mine has not pulled that trick of not starting on me for about 2 months now. (looking for wood to knock on)

shores · Post by **shores** » 20 Feb 2009, 22:25

has anybody figured out this issue yet? my car just pulled this stunt yesterday. let it set for about 5 minutes and it started back up again.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 21 Feb 2009, 07:29

Probably a ground wire somewhere or battery post- corrosion or temperature/moisture dependent- check all of your wires terminating off of your battery cables (and the posts).

tl-s40_2002 · Post by **tl-s40_2002** » 24 Mar 2010, 08:50

I needed to join this conversation about S40's not starting, I own a 2002 S40 and seem to be having the same issue being discussed here. I have own my car for a year now and have experienced the same problems with the car sometimes not starting. When turning the key all lights come on but the starter does not crank, this happens usually after the initial start of the day, and can happen after a few min of driving or after hours of driving-it rears up so sporadically that it's driving me crazy. When this does occur I usually have to leave the car for over 30 min before I can get it started though there have been times when Iit would not start, I then will wait between a 1/12- 2 hours before getting it started. I have replaced the Key and know that the battery, starter, etc are good. I do notice that when the issue occurs it usually is in a place where a lot of electronic signals i.e (automatic doors from a groceries store, controlled parking lots, automatic garage doors, etc) and it seems that these signals are effecting the starting. I am really starting to lean toward the immobilizer as the issue-the signals seem to be effecting the normal communication signal the key sends to the ECM. I have also been told that the antenna ring (the ring around the key slot could be going bad too.
Has anybody been able to actual fix this issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
T

elborba · Post by **elborba** » 26 Mar 2010, 02:50

In my case radio ring, ignition switch, ignition relay and new starter have not fixed the problem. I just put in a new PNP/Neutral Safety switch and the last thing on the laundry list will be the ground wire on the starter if it's not fixed. Do you ever have a problem when driving where your car drives like a slug and the up arrow light is blinking? That is a sign of bad PNP. Otherwise do check the ground on your starter and maybe replace the wire and check the connectors all along the run. If you're having a problem with the immobilizer you will either see the immobilizer light flashing (x through the car light) or you may get some codes that will point you at immobilizer.

Good luck and keep us posted. Shores has had luck so far since replacing the ground wire.

Thanks,

Brandon

mg0698 · Post by **mg0698** » 13 Feb 2012, 12:29

Elbora

You would help me a TON if you can please tell me if that resolved the problem when you swich the PNP switch, I have been dealing with this issue for over a year and I'm on the brink of just selling this thing, But the car is really good besides this problem, And i called my mechanic and the part alone is 250 and another 150 for labor so I don't just want to gamble, I really want to know if that is the problem before changing the part. I read your post I have the same exact problem, and the arrow comes up every now and then and runs sluggish.
Could it be just the switch or the relay also?

I appreciate the help and hope to hear from you.

elborba · Post by **elborba** » 13 Feb 2012, 18:11

Yep, fixed the issue. It was ONLY the PNP switch all along.
I don't believe the up-arrow and sluggish performance are directly related unless perhaps an overheating/malfunctioning transmission causes the PNP, which sits right there on top of the box, to fail.
Good luck!