improving highway mpg S60 R 05 5 sp auto

cryo13 · Post by **cryo13** » 20 May 2010, 22:24

Hey all, I'm new to volvo ownership. bought an 05 S60 R 3 weeks ago. I drive a ton of miles, 3.5 to 5k a month, 90% + freeway miles for work. I really want to see if i can improve on the 23.5 to 26 mpg i get avg, 70-80 mph. I'm in nevada, at higher altitude, 4200-5000'. Car is stock, 38k miles now. I've been reading a lot, all sorts of mods that people are doing to their cars. ECU flashes, in various stages, to downpipes, cat backs, cold air mods, HD TCV's. running uber fluids (Royal Purple), etc.. I don't mind spending some money, i drive so many miles that every mpg i increase, will be like 250.00 bucks in my pocket annually. Gaining performance is fine, but making that mpg get up to 26-29 cruising on the freeway would be awesome. I am not very mechanically inclined and there are no volvo clubs around Reno. Closest is Sacramento, 150 miles off. Any help/ideas on improving those highway miles would be greatly appreciated.

Post by **matthew1** » 20 May 2010, 22:27

Welcome. I'd make sure everything is up to Stage 0, then give the tires a few psi more than is recommended in the owners manual.

Post by **JDS60R** » 20 May 2010, 22:42

There is a sweet spot. I have the 6 speed so I can't tell you where it is in the 5 speed. Try around 72-75mph. In flat conditions I get 28-29 mpg and from all the boards I have read that is pretty good for an R.

If you get an IPD flash and a down pipe the milage is reported to go up about 2mpg. I haven't done this so I can't attest to it yet. Just running a cat back did not help with mileage.

If you are in a high heat area an improved intercooler may help out as well. The upgrade, pipe and intercooler will run far more than you will save so its not a mpg only mod.

Also - use the Volvo air filter. I get better mpg on it than a K&N.

On a stage zero you have to keep up on the trans fluid in the 5 speed auto. Its only good for 30K max unless you move to a top quality synthetic. 5 speed auto's did have a trans overheat issue for long term/high speed runs. They made an additional cooler you can add in or just make up your own.

Enjoy the boost,
John

cryo13 · Post by **cryo13** » 21 May 2010, 00:04

Thanks for the info matt/jd.. i just had the 37.5k service. they checked the tune-up did the oil/brake fluid, new air filter. i as going to go to nitrogen in the tires since i work at Airgas and its CHEAP for me.. I just ordered new vacuum/turbo hoses and clamps. doing the IPD foglight air flow adder also. After i know i am solid on stage 0, will it actually be worth a downpipe and ecu flash? i know it will give more power (HP/Torque), but i am reading and heard on a couple of site.threads that most people claim slightly better mpg on the highway just cruising.. that would be way cool.. Also, i have a buddy who does serious off road racing and he told me to do the Royal Purple in everything.. said would greatly reduce friction whereever its used. just spendy.. at 5+ bucks a quart in any form, engine/trans-differentials.. (does it get used as a cooling/lube item in the turbo also??) Showing my lack of mechanical know how there i'm sure. THX!!

Post by **matthew1** » 21 May 2010, 19:19

Yes, Volvo turbos are oil-cooled. Coking is one reason you want synthetic.

skeeter123 · Post by **skeeter123** » 15 Nov 2010, 15:24

After some maintenance/tune up work on my wife's 2004 S60 (na), including plugs/oil/oil filter/air filter/MAF cleaning, I started paying more attention to the ECM-reported mpg. She was getting ~28 mpg commuting (50 miles/day). When we went for a long interstate drive, I began using the "reset" button to clear out the mpg average, and have it recalculate it for only highway driving. Then, I started watching the instantaneous mpg reported by the ECm as well. Then, just for fun, I decided to see what effect "drafting" off other vehicles would have. It was pretty significant. Basically, normal mpg at 70 mph was 31. But drafting worked like this:

Bigger is better. Getting behind a big 45' semi tractor-trailer would get me up to 36.7 mpg!
Closer is better. Backing off the semi to a more reasonable (wife-approved) distance still got me ~ 34.5 mpg.
But even drafting behind an SUV (like an Explorer) can get me an extra 1.5 mpg.

These are numbers reported by the car's ECM, with cruise control on. Try it yourself. Get up behind a big rig (not too close), and check out instantaneous mpg, and/or reset the average to compute draft-only mpg. Then change lanes into the 70 mph headwind and watch your mpg drop back down. Again, it doesn't have to be a semi to get some benefit, and you don't have to be NASCAR-close to get some benefit. The only drawback I found was that the trucks were doing the speed limit (dang it), and eventually I got tired of playing around and went back to my usual cruising at 75 mph. But if time isn't a factor, it's somethig that really works.

Post by **JRL** » 15 Nov 2010, 15:29

For R owners
www.swedespeed.com
Go to the R forum.
Having owned two modded P2Rs the SMALL MPH gain you may get will not pay for itself
Drive slower, 60-65 is the sweet spot

Post by **priapism** » 15 Nov 2010, 19:45

Good synthetic oil will help. PEople have reported big gains by keeping the MAF clean and fresh. Fresh plugs and wires help efficiency. Oddly, a full trans flush and replaced filter made a big difference in MPG on my truck, but it was 106k and had never had the trans filter changed. Also running the AC makes a big difference in MPG, so turn it off when you can, but keep the windows up on the freeway.

janspeed · Post by **janspeed** » 27 Aug 2013, 09:01

there are some mods that can be done:
- use smaller diameter leightweight closed/flush rims(steelies+hubcaps?) (if fitting over your brake rotors is possible, if not Canopus rims are kinda flush.)
- Use narrower eco-tires for less roling resistance + less aero drag.
- make sure the undertray under the engine is present. Some Turbo and R models came without one. Maybe for cooling purposes? But when you are going for high mileage that will not be a problem.
I am using one under my T5 engine.
- remove the roofrails (V70) (you can fit OEM rooftrim to close the gaps that the roofrails leave behind.) A smooth roof lowers aero drag.
- add the roofspoiler if your car has not have one (V70)
- lower the car, it helps reduce aero drag under the car.
- remove all clutter from the car. it takes energy to get al that extra weight up to speed.
- drive without AC, or if you want to use AC , make sure it is topped up so the compressor has to work less.
- use CC as often as possible.
- if you have the skills, convert your CC to maintain constant vacume as opposed to constant speed. That will improve mileage when you drive over hilly undulating terrain. (going uphill the car will lose speed as opposed to maintaining speed by applying more throttle)
This will take some modding ( you need a pressure sensor in the intake that feeds a useable signal to the CC. )
- maybe put a small solarpanel on the roof to keep the battery fully charged at all times.
This relieves the alternator = less drag on the engine.

ChiNorm · Post by **ChiNorm** » 27 Aug 2013, 12:09

If you are not now running premium gas, switch. More power and mileage.

Good luck.