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99' V70, Runs fine then rough idle and dies with gas press

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nightc1
Posts: 93
Joined: 01 Sep 2009, 07:54
Year and Model: 99'V70 Base 140K+Mi
Location: Alabama, USA

Post by nightc1 »

My car (V70 99' non-turbo Base Model with ~150K Miles) is stuck at work so I have to bring stuff in to work on it (after hours or during lunch) and I can't drive it to an autozone to get the codes read nor do I have a code reader. I figure I'll preface the problem by stating this. If I can get this issue worked out without towing it that would be fantastic.

Ok so the problem.

If I start the car it will start up and idle as normal. In fact I can put it in gear and drive it for about 1 min... after this point it goes into what I call a "rough idle" mode where if I give it any additional gas it'll die. If it's still in gear, it'll die. If the car dies, I can usually restart it immediately and it'll sit there and rough idle seemingly forever, but once I touch the gas it dies. Outside temperature does not seem to affect things one way or another and the car never gets up to running temperature before it enters "rough idle" mode.

At the moment I think it's a bad fuel pressure regulator.... but I would love some feedback as I only have limited time to work on the car since it's not at home in the garage and can only work on it during good weather since it's stuck outside at work.

I disconnected the sensor on the exhaust as was suggested to me by a mechanic where I work because in his experience a clogged up smog pump can cause a similar problem in other vehicles he's worked on. He said it would make the car run loud but if the smog pump was the problem then I could at least drive the car home. This didn't work. It ran the same.

I read on the forums about the MAF and that disconnecting it would allow the car to run if it was the fault... but disconnection caused it to just die immediately (or not start, I forget which). I probably did this check wrong... I was in a hurry that day.

I checked the air filter, it looked clean.

I checked the gas cap, removed it and put it back on.

I replaced the fuel filter Friday (also at the Mechanic's suggestion) and this didn't seem to help. I had never changed the fuel filter the entire time I've owned the car (which I bought used 6 years ago), but it looks like it was changed at one other time before now as there was no tape around the one fuel line connection.

I have searched the forum...

It seems I need to:

Clean the MAF sensor
Clean the throttle body
Check/replace the fuel pressure regulator
Look for vacuum leaks

I live a good 40+ miles from my workplace... so any other ideas on stuff to check is appreciated. If this sounds like something anyone else has had to deal with, I appreciate the feedback. My symptoms didn't exactly match anyone elses I could find on the forum. I found enough stuff close though to build the list above of what to check.

Could it be bad gas or excess water in the tank?

Could it be excess carbon and a fuel cleaner/stabilizer will help?

I have downloaded the 850 zip file full of documents a while back, but I probably need to do so again since I don't have the files at work.

To recount the events that led up to this (if it helps), I was on my way to work the morning this started. I stopped and put about 7 gallons of gas into the tank as it was low. I drove about 35 miles and stopped at a local store to pick up a few 2-liters for work. When I got in the car at the store, the car started but was rough idling and stopped when I pressed the gas. I popped the hood and checked all fluids. Coolant was ok but a little low on the bottle. I added some. Oil was really low... probably 2 1/2 quarts in the engine :o ... as I added about 2 & 1/2 to get it back up to the full mark. This didn't seem to help at all. When a few guys from work and I came back to get the car with a truck and trailer later in the day, the car started and I was able to drive it up onto the trailer. When we got it to my work place (a few miles down the road), when I started it to back it off the trailer it went into rough idle mode so we ended up pushing it off the trailer ... though later on I was able to start it and park it out of the way.

Is it possible the low oil was part of the issue? That was my original thought but I had no issues driving the whole time before that and all temperatures seemed fine engine wise.

It seems odd that it starts and runs fine then it's like it can't handle the fuel flow, gets bogged down and dies. It seems pressure related more than sensor related since I would think a sensor would either work or not work and pressure could build to the point of it running rough (my theory anyway).

I really need to get this car running so I can get it home. I was hoping to get some new tires on it this week due to a good deal through goodyear (my dad is retired from there).

Any feedback is appreciated.

Other issues with this car... I have a leaky heater core which is currently not leaking due to putting some stop-leak in with the coolant. I'm probably due for a timing belt (and related parts) change. SRS light is constantly on (which started shortly after removing carpet as I had to disconnect the sensors in both seats)... and I have taken off (a year ago) and re-soldered the ABS unit (per instructions here) but still sometimes the ABS unit will fail partially (where just the ABS light is illuminated) or it will fully fail (and the abs and brake error lights illuminate and then the speedometer and related components stop functioning). So the car is far from mechanically perfect, though this is the first time the car has given me a serious problem like this.

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

The DENSO system in your V70 functions differently from the rest of them, or so it would seem. Disconnecting the MAF in these cars WILL cause the system to immediately die. I would try this again, disconnect the sensor with the engine off, and THEN try to start it.

Turn the key to Pos II and let it prime itself, then remove the blue cap towards the drivers side of the fuel rail and press the valve underneath. You should get a healthy spurt of fuel. If that's OK, move on to the fuel pressure regulator - it should still be under the fuel rail on your 99, but I'm not 100% positive. It is on my 98. Pull off the vacuum line to that, and watch for a spurt of fuel or a wet vacuum line. If that is the case, it is your fuel pressure regulator that has died.

If everything there checks out OK, pull off the EVAP canister line (the one highlighted here in red) to the intake manifold:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... &mode=view

Right now I'm just throwing possible scenarios at you, but all these checks should take you <20 mins and help you eliminate some possible causes.
So the car is far from mechanically perfect, though this is the first time the car has given me a serious problem like this.
All of 'em have these issues at some point or another. It's just part of owning an older car.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

nightc1
Posts: 93
Joined: 01 Sep 2009, 07:54
Year and Model: 99'V70 Base 140K+Mi
Location: Alabama, USA

Post by nightc1 »

jablackburn,

I'll give that a try. Thank you for the feedback. It is much appreciated.

I read that tapping the MAF Sensor (like with the handle of a screwdriver) may cause some rough idling if it's gone bad.

I'll probably aim at MAF and Throttle Body stuff during lunch (since gas isn't involved) and then try out the other stuff before I head home.

nightc1
Posts: 93
Joined: 01 Sep 2009, 07:54
Year and Model: 99'V70 Base 140K+Mi
Location: Alabama, USA

Post by nightc1 »

Update:

At Lunch time I ...

1. Added some extra gas to the tank (brought 2 fresh gallons in a gas can this morning). Upon starting the car it actually went straight to the rough idling mode .. though it wasn't as bad as previous. I was able to back it up a little but then it started to get too rough so I hit neutral and then to park. I have a can of seafoam with me, I think I have enough gas in the tank to go ahead and use a 1/4 to 1/2 of a can in the tank (incase the fuel is the cause)... I'll add this later today.

2. I disconnected the MAF Sensor. At first the car started and then idled down and stopped. Second time starting it I kept on the gas and was able to get it to rev up nicely, but if I let it drop down to idle it would start to hesitate. I wonder if this is O2 sensor related? Eh, any case I did at least get it to run with the MAF disconnected. I wonder if I could drive it home like that?

After testing I hit walmart and bought a can of carb cleaner (that doesn't hurt o2 sensors) and a can of stuff that is supposed to clean electronic engine components as well as an extra funnel (for the seafoam).

After work I'll...
put some seafoam in the tank (I may do this before the end of the work day and do the rest of the typical seafoam cleaning)
Remove and clean the MAF Sensor (and maybe the 02 sensor if that's cleanable)
clean the carburetor
and try the fuel related tests

I read the article you (jablackburn) did on PVC cleaning and have read a bunch of other stuff since this morning.

Sadly (or not so much), I'm going on vacation soon so I may try to get the car back behind my work place since it's all fensed and stuff. We have security cameras everywhere, but if I gotta leave it here another week I may as well have the extra peace of mind that it's not out front.

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

clean the carburetor
What kind of Volvo do YOU have? :mrgreen:

I think the possibility that you got it to run with the MAF disconnected, although stuttering, suggests that as a possibility, along with another leak SOMEWHERE in the system (vacuum lines?)

The engine will run on its "best guess" of fuel-air mixture with the MAF disconnected. If there is air being introduced into the system SOMEWHERE else, it won't run well based on that estimate, perhaps your car has been running like that for some time and the MAF has finally given out. Try to drive it around the block or parking lot or something, you may have to keep a foot on the gas and brake to keep it from shutting off.

I doubt the PCV has much to do with it, unless one of the hoses has come loose - less likely since you don't have a turbo model.

Anyway, let us know what you find out in the end - if you need any help this evening, shoot me a PM and I can send you my phone # to help walk you through checking some things.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

nightc1
Posts: 93
Joined: 01 Sep 2009, 07:54
Year and Model: 99'V70 Base 140K+Mi
Location: Alabama, USA

Post by nightc1 »

jablackburn wrote:What kind of Volvo do YOU have? :mrgreen:
Um, yeah, total mistype there :lol: ... I mean Thorttle Body.... and I have carb/throttle body cleaner that's safe for O2 sensors.

I have the MAF Sensor out now and am going to clean it. Unfortunately this isn't like all the others out there as it's completely contained in a housing :cry:

Here's the part on ipdusa. ... if their image below doesn't load...

Image

I can see the sensor components through the intake and will just spray em to death (CRC QD Electronic Cleaner) and let it sit and dry a few hours :lol: (The picture shows the exit end).

I may try driving around the parking lot after work and see if I can keep it rev'ed up enough so she doesn't stall out if the MAF Sensor cleaning doesn't help.

Just a few hours to go before quitin' time.

And again, I appreciate all the feedback.

JRL
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Post by JRL »

CODES?
This should throw a code
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

Volgrrr
Posts: 246
Joined: 13 Sep 2006, 20:35
Year and Model: '95 T5 wagon
Location: Near Ararat, Victoria, Australia

Post by Volgrrr »

Why don't you hire a trailer to get your vehicle back to your place and then you'll be able to work on it at your own leisure.
There are only two types of car owners - those who own Volvos and those who wish they did.

nightc1
Posts: 93
Joined: 01 Sep 2009, 07:54
Year and Model: 99'V70 Base 140K+Mi
Location: Alabama, USA

Post by nightc1 »

Yesterday, I didn't have as much time as I wanted for this. The cleaned MAF Sensor and cleaned Throttle Body didn't seem to help the issue much. I was able to get it to where I could drive it around the lot if I kept it revved up (though power was down). I've read the symptoms I'm having are similar to a bad spark plug or wire... I'm going to check the plugs today.

I didn't relieve the pressure on the fuel rail or try the stuff related to that as I ran out of time.

I didn't notice any vacuum leaks or other odd things. Luckily I have 3 cars so it's not mission critical to get this one going. If it turns out this is plug/plug-wire related... I'll fix it today and then I"ll bring it home this weekend.
JRL wrote:CODES?
This should throw a code
I also would think it is. I tried to cover this very point though in the first few lines of the post. Sorry if that sounds rude... and I don't own a code reader (though I'm open to donations :mrgreen: )
Volgrrr wrote:Why don't you hire a trailer to get your vehicle back to your place and then you'll be able to work on it at your own leisure.
I'd rather buy something for the car first and try to fix it on site as I have very limited time this week to even do anything with it. If I can't fix it by the 5th, I'll haul it home with a truck and trailer from work. No one is bothered at all with me having the car at the office. Our place is a combo office building and manufacturing plant and we are on a dead end street that gets very little traffic (mostly just cops as they like to sit on our street and do their reports). Between the police, video cameras, the fence and the guys that work in the plant... I think the car is probably safer here than at home :lol:

If I had more time to work on it, I would have probably hauled it home the 14th when this all happened.

Everyone is in a different situation though... this is just where I'm at this moment... next week I'll put a lot of time into the car (if plugs aren't the issue)

nightc1
Posts: 93
Joined: 01 Sep 2009, 07:54
Year and Model: 99'V70 Base 140K+Mi
Location: Alabama, USA

Post by nightc1 »

CODES!

I got my code reader cable and software in this weekend and brought it to work today. Before the weekend though I disconnected my battery to reset everything. SO the codes posted should be the main ones.

Service $03 Stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes
P0722 - Output Speed Sensor No Signal
P1057 - ?
P1081 - ?

Service $07 Pending Diagnostic Trouble Codes
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1054 - ?
P1057 - ?

The P0722 I believe is due to the ABS unit being faulty

IS the P0135 the sensor on the exhaust near the engine? I can remove and clean that puppy (and will do).

What are:

P1054
P1057
P1081


I've done some research ant it appears the 3 unknowns along with P0722 are related to the speed sensor and transmission control module and appear due to the the ABS module failing.

So can my problem mainly just be the O2 Sensor? Can it make a car stumble really bad? Whatever the case I'm going to remove it, clean it (if it doesn't appear broken), check the wires for voltage and so on. I may go ahead and just disconnect the ABS module since I know it's got issues.

Any other feedback is greatly appreciated.

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