volvofixer1000 wrote:Well, well, well!!!!!! I almost got it. I thought your job looked very much like mine, but from what I found out, the vehicle that I have is slightly different.
I have a 2006 S40 and I just found out that the A/C compressor has to be at least loosened , I just don't know if there is enough room to push the compressor to the side and drop the oil pan.
Has anyone done this job on this model? if so please let me know where I can read about it.
Thank you all for the information - I am ready to tackle this job tomorrow on my 2006 S80 turbo AWD.
When I remove the front engine mount behind the passenger tire will do I have to remove anything else like the compressor or drop the subframe?
the transmission mount does not appear to be in the way and there are no lines under the pan as in earlier models.
Anything you learned from your 2006 would be helpful....
I replaced my oil sump without touching the engine mounts. At 70K miles they where probably less worn making space enough to remove the oil pan without anything more than bending the power steering pipes. However I wasn't smart enough to change the O-rings.
BenF wrote: ↑Wed May 01, 2019 8:02 am
Resurrecting an old thread here, I'm getting ready to do this on an 01 xc. Why it is required to use ramps not a floor jack to put jackstands under the door rails ?
You can raise it with floor jack and set it on jack stands. PRACTICE SAFETY!
A recent 2001 V70XC oil pan and more project viewtopic.php?f=9&t=61449
-- Golden Retriever | 2014D VIDA DiCE | 2013A XC90 +144mi/231km | 2001 V70XC 1st Owner +200mi/ +322km | 1997 Volvo 850 NA 1st Owner +180mi/ +289km Past: German Shepherd | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
So I just got done, thanks to the op for the excellent write up. My 2001 xc is simpler. Didn't even see the power steering lines in this one and I didn't have to mess with the engine mount. It only took a few seconds of wiggling to get it out. My o -rings looked fine and my pick up filter wasn't really clogged. I think someone had already done this job. None of the bolts were too hard.
washdup wrote: ↑Mon Jul 19, 2010 11:02 pm
Excellent writeup! After reading it, I'm glad I had a shop do the job for my car, but someone with more inclination could sure benefit. For anyone wondering, this job will often take care of "ticking" in the lifters. In my case, the ticking would occur if the oil level was a little low. The dried out o-rings make for poor suction of oil up the tube from the pan, so the lifters can get a bit starved of oil.
I've got a bag of o-rings and gaskets and my oil pan on the floor of my shop. Remembering having to re-do the nightmarish heater core replacement, I'm looking at this stuff thinking, "don't move until you're sure you've got it right." Your write-up gave me the confidence to proceed. Thanks!
I did the O rings in my '99 V70 and it didn't help the lifter tick.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (actively for sale)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
smacknab wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 1:44 pm
Anyone know if the process is the same for a m56 transmission? The mating of the oil pan and transmission makes me worry a bit that I don't have the right seals etc
Your photo is looking at the back of the engine. There are no seals back there. All the seals at the front.