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Engine would would stall after few minutes Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Lbert

Engine would would stall after few minutes

Post by Lbert »

'98 S70, 106K, non-turbo. After a period of non use, the car would consistenly restart and idle for about 4 minutes and cut off as if you turned off the ignition. You would not be able to restart immediately. It has to sit for awhile before it would run again. I have bought the following new parts to solve the problem: fuel regulator, fuel pump relay, fuel filter, and fuel pump. I believe it is a fuel delivery problem because the electrical end seems to work fine; battery is good and it would crank fine. I'm out $500.00 and I'm still dead in the water. Thank you in advance for any input.

White850Turbo
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Joined: 11 Apr 2004, 20:13
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Location: Plano, TX

Post by White850Turbo »

Wow, this is a tough one. I don't think I've heard of that before. You may want to post this over in the Maintenance Section on the Volvospeed forums. Rich (Bay13Admin) is a Volvo master mechanic and I'm sure he's probably seen this before. He's pretty good at answering questions over there.

UncleBoost
Posts: 79
Joined: 11 Dec 2004, 13:37
Year and Model: 855 R, 1996
Location: Jamestown, NC

Post by UncleBoost »

Lbert wrote:'98 S70, 106K, non-turbo. After a period of non use, the car would consistenly restart and idle for about 4 minutes and cut off as if you turned off the ignition. You would not be able to restart immediately. It has to sit for awhile before it would run again. I have bought the following new parts to solve the problem: fuel regulator, fuel pump relay, fuel filter, and fuel pump. I believe it is a fuel delivery problem because the electrical end seems to work fine; battery is good and it would crank fine. I'm out $500.00 and I'm still dead in the water. Thank you in advance for any input.

Where does your Temperature hand sit when the engine is fully warmed up? It should be at least 1/2 way or the 3:00 position. If you have replaced all those parts associated with Fuel delivery i would start looking at "Air" delivery in the way of Vacuum leaks and or it could possibly be your coolant sensor. Disconnect your coolant sensor and run the engine and see if the problem goes away. You will probably set a code but at least you can eliminate it as the culprit if it still cuts off. Check all your vacuum lines and hoses for cracks. Hows your plug Gap and condition of ignition components?
Gap should be .028

elbert
Posts: 4
Joined: 05 Mar 2005, 11:09
Year and Model:
Location: Richardson, Texas

Post by elbert »

Engine light finally lit up and had an error code indicating a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor problem-- using a OBD II reader. Engine light only lit up after I replaced the fuel pump and was able to run the engine which later trigger the error code.
Originally, the car stalled and I was able to restart after a short wait and drove to get home (less than a mile). All symptoms indicated a fuel delivery problem. That is why I replaced all aforementioned items. I'm not sure if it was a multiple component failure or what, but the MAF sensor was putting out too much current. I checked the coolant sensor and it is sending the right output.
I ordered the MAF sensor and as soon as the part arrives, I will post the results.

NZ 850

Post by NZ 850 »

Ive got an 850 with the same problem. It runs smooth and powerful but every once and awhile when coming to a stop it dies and will not restart right away....after 30seconds it starts right up and goes like nothing ever happened! I have replaced all of the fuel system bar the injectors and still doing it. The code reader is giving the O.K. but I will check the MAF and see if that works. Cheers

elbert
Posts: 4
Joined: 05 Mar 2005, 11:09
Year and Model:
Location: Richardson, Texas

Post by elbert »

Car is now working. It was the MAF sensor after all. Thanks to everyone who responded.

wayde
Posts: 4
Joined: 05 Jul 2007, 14:24
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by wayde »

UncleBoost wrote:
Lbert wrote:'98 S70, 106K, non-turbo. After a period of non use, the car would consistenly restart and idle for about 4 minutes and cut off as if you turned off the ignition. You would not be able to restart immediately. It has to sit for awhile before it would run again. I have bought the following new parts to solve the problem: fuel regulator, fuel pump relay, fuel filter, and fuel pump. I believe it is a fuel delivery problem because the electrical end seems to work fine; battery is good and it would crank fine. I'm out $500.00 and I'm still dead in the water. Thank you in advance for any input.

Where does your Temperature hand sit when the engine is fully warmed up? It should be at least 1/2 way or the 3:00 position. If you have replaced all those parts associated with Fuel delivery i would start looking at "Air" delivery in the way of Vacuum leaks and or it could possibly be your coolant sensor. Disconnect your coolant sensor and run the engine and see if the problem goes away. You will probably set a code but at least you can eliminate it as the culprit if it still cuts off. Check all your vacuum lines and hoses for cracks. Hows your plug Gap and condition of ignition components?
Gap should be .028
I now have fallen plague to the stalling event. I have gone through the tests with the MAF and it didn't make a difference. The car will start up fresh with no problem, I left it run for about 5 minutes and the it stalled on it's own sitting there at an idle. Makes me think that the car may have just come to temperature and then quit. Will the temp sensor shut the car off? I left it sit for about 2 hours and tried to start it again and it tried to fire but wouldn't start.

I have a 1990 760 turbo - if that makes any difference. The engine runs like a champ never so much as a miss until no.

Plugs look fine, cleaned the MAF, cleaned the Throttle body. Any help would be greatly apreciated.

I tested the MAF according to Erokv11 from VolvoSpeed forum

the MAF test goes like this:

you do the test if your car is running like crap, rough idle and stumbling etc, and you think the MAF is the problem. There may or may not be a MAF code.

the test is to shut the car off, unplug the MAF, then start it back up. If the MAF is the problem, then the car will run better with the MAF unplugged. These cars run OK without a MAF. If it still runs like crap then keep looking, the MAF is not the reason.


http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... l=stalling

elbert
Posts: 4
Joined: 05 Mar 2005, 11:09
Year and Model:
Location: Richardson, Texas

Post by elbert »

Wayde,

Even if you car overheats, the temp sensor by itself will not shut off the car. It will be the warping of the heads, etc. that will kill the car. Since your car will not start, it has to be something else.

You need to expand or explain more what you mean "I have gone through the tests with the MAF and it didn't make a difference". Another test is to do a backprode of the MAF sensor. I no longer have the car and the Haynes manual so I cannot say what the electrical values should be.

See if you are getting fuel pressure and spark to the plugs. When you crank the engine, do you hear the car trying to run or do you just hear the starter turning the flywheel?

MadeInJapan
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Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
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Post by MadeInJapan »

Wayde,
Let me suggest that you post your issue in the 760 section...FWD/AWD Volvo's are different enough that it could make a difference in diagnosis and how to fix it.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

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