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Official Engine Stalling Thread

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Secondary Air Injection System Diagram
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Guest

Post by Guest »

Forgot, losing my mind, but I meant to roll this into the discussion also in previous post,

Quote:

"Interestingly, a coworker with a 740 is an amateur radio enthusiast. He said that RF interference with the computer can precipitate the same symptoms. He had to buy RF shielding for his car. He thought that it was possible for a passing truck with a powerful enough CB to cause this, but that seems a bit far-fetched to me..."

Your friend may not be so crazy afterall. When I had the CMP Cam Sensor problem, on my way home from work I could almost guarantee that the first time the engine would cut out while driving down the road at normal secondary road speed would be just after I had passed under a bridge that an AMTRAK train would cross. I'm not making this stuff up! Crazy, huh?

Electronic parts indeed. Seems possible. Wonder if the EMT is affected in the same way?

Guest

Post by Guest »

Just to get this post from another thread into this particular thread because i feel it's important:

"WhiteTurbo,

Thanks for your help. This diagram is perfect. Just for clarification, so the ETM is part of the throttle body or is it one in the same?

Will take this thing apart and clean it on Sunday if i don't rearend someone or get rearened before then. Let me think about PMing you. My paranoia just might be overcome by my cheapskatedness, however. I should probably spring for the gaskets at least. Assume I can get them anywhere? as I don't really like going to the dealer after stuff like this comes to light.

While researching on other sites, I came across this where victims of newer Volvos (say '99 on have even bigger problems with the ETMs since Volvo swithced suppliers from Germany to Italy. At least mine got to 125k miles (well, I can't confirm that since not the orig. owner, bought with 43k miles, I hope no OD rollback, fuzzy stuff producing a title as different states involved) but apparently they are only getting 10-20k miles for their $1,000 dealer repair. This really is a defect to me. And a "life threatening" one to boot. Should be a recall. I will be sending letter to Volva of America or should I just send it to Ford now? ; )

http://www.v70xc.com/forums/showthread. ... #post47755 "

Guest

Post by Guest »

Hmm... Now I'm confused. According to this expert the EMT can't possiblty be the decelerating/coasting/stopping stalling cause problem in a '94 850 because they didn't start using them till '99 S70? Can anyone clarify?

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... opic=21451

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

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1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
2004 V70 R [gone]

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Guest

Post by Guest »

Guest wrote:Hmm... Now I'm confused. According to this expert the EMT can't possiblty be the decelerating/coasting/stopping stalling cause problem in a '94 850 because they didn't start using them till '99 S70? Can anyone clarify?

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... opic=21451
Well, apparently it still is the problem even for the older ones but not as often according to this:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=3729

Thanks again WhiteTurbo, will report back how this goes.

Frails

Post by Frails »

I have a 1994 850 with 127k miles. If I take my car a down the road for say a trip for lottery tickets, It starts right up when I leave the store. BUT, if I take it on a longer trip, say home from work and on the highway and stop at a store, it will not start if I run right in and out. If it sits for an hour or more no problem. ut if I try to start the car soon after I turned it off, I always have to wait a few minutes for it to start. During this time, t tries to start but appears starving for fuel and never actually starts. Just simply chugs a little and not enough to put the car in drive and go. So many of you have had similar problems and changed fuel pumps, etc to no avail. So while it's never stalled while driving, it's annoying enough on a 110 degree day in Arizona.

Frails

Post by Frails »

So I took the black cover off to clean the ETM unit. What I noticed though was that one of the three small off-white tubes connected to the thottle unit was completely torn off at the right angle boot. It's the bottom tube of the three and the one that looks to have some sort of filter attached further down the line. Can anyone tell me what this is and could it be the culprit of no restart for a few minutes after turning off the car??

Guest

Post by Guest »

Frails,

I don't have a specific answer for you, but I would think that's not a good thing so you probably want to replace the hose/connection or at least try to electrical tape it or something. If it's like the area on my Volvo, it's kinda oily and grimy however which makes that hard to do.

While I'm here, I just wanted to let WhiteTurbo know that cleaning the Throttle Body (ETM)appears to have worked for now. No stalls during deceleration into stops today on the way to work.

I decided not to take the TB off the engine due to having to possibly replace the engine side mounting gasket which I didn't have so I only cleaned it from the flexible hose side after taking the hose/plastic hose elbow off. I used a gasoline soaked rag since it seems to be metal and also a can of rusty bolt lubricant because I have that small straw that comes with the can sometimes mounted to it to direct spray right to the flap (butterfly valve?) hinge area spots on each side. Let it air out a long time before I reassembeld everything. It was crusty looking with that brownish varnish build-up. The plastic hose elow had al kinds of oil laying in it but I didn't want to use gas on that cleaning so I just tried to clean up with dry paper towel.

I also tried to clean out the Flame Trap while I had the hard plastic flexible hose elbow off which I heard may affect this stalling problem but even more importantly will prevent oil pressure build-up in the engine if it gets too clogged (I was having oil seemingly disappear, it didn't seem to be burning but I was filling the level a lot more) . Thing is though, the FT was so old and crusty that the Flame Trap AND the FT housing it was in crumbled apart at the bottom. Since I didn't have a Flame Trap I just put the assembly back together after dry towel cleaning it up WITHOUT the Flame Trap. I was going to run it a week to see if it was OK and then replace it (FT, housing and rubber O-Ring next weekend. The connection is shaky since I only have the top "nob" holding the asembly together since the bottom "nob" is gone. I probably should have electrical taped it for now to beef up the seating.

Is this a bad idea to run W/O the Flame Trap? Will it cause permanant damage to the engine? I thought I read a guy who was a former volvo mechanic saying although there is no official guidance on this, he felt you could probably get away with not replacing it.

Guest

Post by Guest »

And just to close the loop again:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=3830

Day 2 after cleaning and still running OK. Has been unusually cool though past 2 days. Won't really know for sure until it warms to about 65 degrees F. which seemed to make the occurance more frequent unless the outside air temperature was simply a coincidence since the engine itself normally runs much warmer once the thermostat kicks in.

Guest

Post by Guest »

Day 3, ride in to work this morning no problems. Still cool outside though... Fairly warm on ride home yesterday, no problems. The ETM cleaning (or mechanical TM) fix seems to have stuck.

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