Gotta replace the secondary air pump on my 96'850 GLT

Post by **shiloh51933** » 19 Jan 2011, 16:39

I pulled a the code today and the secondary air system gave a trouble code. I searched and found the thread with the VW conversion, which I'd rather not do. Does anyone know who has this pump for the cheapest? I was getting ready to do the PCV system this week cause I've been having an ongoing issue with condensation in oil and white smoke. I never resolved the cause of this but came to conclusion that it wasn't HG or cracked head. I knew it was a little to much water to just be condensation unless the PCV system was causing this. Now I'm thinking it's this secondary air injection system. Any suggestions? I already have all the PCV system parts so I'm gonna do anyway of course.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 19 Jan 2011, 16:56

Depending on the level of scrutiny you get on smog testing you can just trick the system with a diode soldered across a couple of pins on the ECU and forget about it forever. If the test is passed with no CEL being on you will be golden.

There are some differences on which pins to jump based on whether you have a Motronic 4.3 or 4.4 ECU but here is a starting point.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 11#p144311

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... as-delete/

...Lee

Post by **shiloh51933** » 20 Jan 2011, 06:01

Ozark Lee wrote:Depending on the level of scrutiny you get on smog testing you can just trick the system with a diode soldered across a couple of pins on the ECU and forget about it forever. If the test is passed with no CEL being on you will be golden.

There are some differences on which pins to jump based on whether you have a Motronic 4.3 or 4.4 ECU but here is a starting point.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 11#p144311

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... as-delete/

...Lee

I appreciate the response but in the same token I'm not trying to trick the system, I'm looking to replace the pump. I probably should have been more specific in my post, I want to repair/replace pump. My service light comes on for like a minute when first started but no CEL, I pulled the code with my scanner. I've been having this occuring issue with a lot of condensation in crank case and white smoke but never able to resolve. I was told/thought it would burn off after running long enough but that wasn't the case. I figured my PCV system was failing, so I just recently ordered everything to replace but now I'm thinking the secondary air injection system could be the culprit. Any opinions on this theory? What about this VW air pump modification for replacing this pump...is this reliable? I don't like the idea of using a modified part from another vehicle, yeah I know we mod parts all the time for performance reasons but this is no the case.

Post by **jblackburn** » 20 Jan 2011, 06:13

The air pump itself may still be alright, if you hear it activate after putting the car in drive and moving for a little bit. I'd start by replacing the SAS valve (silver canister at the back of the car) and air pump relay. Drill two small holes in the bottom of the existing air pump housing to let any trapped condensation out of the motor.

If it sounds like a leaf blower - a high-pitched shrieking noise, the motor is dying and you will need to replace it.

The service light doesn't mean anything other than "hey, your car needs an oil change" and cannot be reset without a special tool. Your options are pretty much: learn to ignore the light, spend money on a special reset tool (not worth it), or remove the bulb.

Post by **shiloh51933** » 20 Jan 2011, 06:45

jablackburn wrote:The air pump itself may still be alright, if you hear it activate after putting the car in drive and moving for a little bit. I'd start by replacing the SAS valve (silver canister at the back of the car) and air pump relay. Drill two small holes in the bottom of the existing air pump housing to let any trapped condensation out of the motor.

If it sounds like a leaf blower - a high-pitched shrieking noise, the motor is dying and you will need to replace it.

The service light doesn't mean anything other than "hey, your car needs an oil change" and cannot be reset without a special tool. Your options are pretty much: learn to ignore the light, spend money on a special reset tool (not worth it), or remove the bulb.

Sounding like a leaf blower in general(meaning right now), or after I replace SAS valve/air pump relay and drilling the two small holes to let out condensation. One more question Ja, do you think this has any relation to the ongoing issue I've been having with the condensation in crank case? Thanks for tips.

Post by **jblackburn** » 20 Jan 2011, 07:06

If it sounds like that now, the bearings in the motor are shot, likely from water that builds up inside the pump housing. It should sound like a small turbine in operation, but if it is squealing loudly it's done. When/if you get a new one, drilling the holes is still a good idea to let moisture out of the housing.

The SAS system injects air directly into the exhaust pipe - it has nothing to do with condensation in the crankcase, but the PCV could if it is clogged.

Post by **shiloh51933** » 20 Jan 2011, 07:08

a little bit. I'd start by replacing the SAS valve (silver canister at the back of the car) and air pump relay. Drill two small holes in the bottom of the existing air pump housing to let any trapped condensation out of the motor.

If it sounds like a leaf blower - a high-pitched shrieking noise, the motor is dying and you will need to replace it.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... urge+Valve

Is this the valve were talking about?

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 20 Jan 2011, 07:12

I did the replacement of the secondary air pump with a VW pump and it did great. Someone did it on here with pictures and it helped. I didn't drill holes in the right place and after a few months motor went bad. The SAS valve is probably bad, but cost around $90.00 from Volvo. I will head to a salvage yard soon to find a replacement pump or two. I would not hesitate to put in a VW pump. The Volvo pumps are pretty expensive.
Good Luck

Post by **jblackburn** » 20 Jan 2011, 07:14

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... heck+Valve

That one. This is a stupid expensive system - this valve is usually the first part to fail and then floods the pump. If I were to do it again, knowing about the bypass, I would go that route.

Post by **shiloh51933** » 20 Jan 2011, 08:12

jablackburn wrote:http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... heck+Valve

That one. This is a stupid expensive system - this valve is usually the first part to fail and then floods the pump. If I were to do it again, knowing about the bypass, I would go that route.

yeah I read something about the air pump system delete and was thinking the same thing. Only thing is it's cold out and I need to get this thing inspected asap. Thanks for the info, gonna fine comb everything first before buying anything just to make sure it isn't a hose. I probably get the check valve and if I have to modify a VW pump to save some dough.