2001 C70 won't start...doing self repair

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 23 Apr 2011, 16:18

Hi Fellas!!!
Here's the challenge:2 weeks ago, "Vivo", my Volvo C70 2001, died while slowing down to stop. Wouldn't restart. I'm gonna have to be smart and thrifty about this repair as I have very limited funds...Can you help?

The Details:
-Towed Vivo to Shop #1: reported multiple misfires and codes PO236, PO237. Said I should start with the CAM sensor but may want to tow it to the dealership to see if the ETM warranty might be part of the problem (did no repairs yet). Towed it to dealership.
-Towed Vivo to Shop #2: did a sweep test after much debate and said it passed, so no ETM work. instead, get this. they said I should spend >$2000 to do the following: New Battery, New Alternator, 5 New Spark Plugs, 5 New Ignition Coils, New Boost Sensor & a New Timing Belt. Reported that only 3 cylinders were firing up and that the battery voltage was low. Called Shop #1 and discussed it. Then towed the car home where my boyfriend and I are giving it a go. (I thank God that towing is covered by my insurance! And that my boyfriend is a super amazing man to help me with this!)
-Towed Vivo Home: battery is actually dead now for some reason, wasn't dead when we towed it to shop #2. Took battery to AutoZone to charge it. Picking it up tomorrow. Ordered 5 spark plugs and 2 ignition coils from FCP. Boyfriend removed the 5 ignition coils today and we will take ignition coils to Autozone tomorrow to test but first need to know the "resistance/ohm" we should look for if the ignition coils are good vs bad.

Anybody know? All advice welcome!

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 23 Apr 2011, 19:31

UPDATE:
+ 2 new ignition coils installed
+ 5 new spark plugs installed
+ battery charged up and installed

OUTCOME:
The car started once and felt like it was running a little rough. We turned it off to put the covers back over the ignition coils and after that, it wouldn't restart. After periodically attempting to start it over a 30 minute period, the battery appears to be getting low on voltage as the lights are getting dimmer.

What's next? Anybody?

JetMechGAC · Post by **JetMechGAC** » 24 Apr 2011, 17:42

Honestly it could be a bad (weak) battery. If you were able to start it once but ran rough and then not a second time, it sounds like it's the charging system. And, if you have a weak battery, the alternator will be sending more of it's charge to the battery and not the engine computer and it's components which could cause a misfire. A cheap and easy way to eliminate the battery as being the culprit is to replace it. How old is the battery? You can also check the battery and alternator leads to make sure that they are connected tightly and not corroded (this also goes for the engine ground straps).

Post by **precopster** » 24 Apr 2011, 18:44

You'll really need a code scanner/code clearer to get to the bottom of this. Wasn't the diagnosis for three coils??

All these trips to Autozone and back are going to drive you batty. Try and start the car from a jump start, if you can't do this buy an inexpensive battery charger. 2 Amp rating is OK, but will be slow (overnight).

Also buy a voltage/current meter for around $15 which will diagnose the alternator/charging system. When the engine is running you should see 14.0 Volts +or- 0.2V at the terminals. Take it from there & post what you find.

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 25 Apr 2011, 16:06

Thanks guys. So we picked up a battery and a volt meter.

Installed new battery but car still won't start.

Not sure how to use the voltmeter to test the alternator since the car is not running....What do you think?

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 25 Apr 2011, 16:08

Also, to confirm...3 coils were working, 2 were bad. We replaced the 2 bad ones.

Post by **precopster** » 25 Apr 2011, 16:45

Remove each coil as you crank the car and place the metallic spring of the coil which is at the bottom of the coil next to an earth point (any metal part of the top of engine is fine)

You should see a bright blue spark jump across from the spring to the engine.

Do this with all five coils. Do you see a good spark jumping across as you crank the engine?

Also remove the plastic cover (small torx) from the top of the throttle pulley and press the valve that looks like a tire valve. A good flow of fuel should squirt out.

Post back your findings.

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 25 Apr 2011, 17:51

Thanks! working on it ... trying to figure out where the throttle pulley is ....

Post by **precopster** » 25 Apr 2011, 17:54

There's a black cable coming out of the firewall which gets pulled every time you press the accelerator pedal. This cable ends at the throttle pulley a round aluminium item slightly larger in width than a beer can.

This has a plastic cover over it.

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 25 Apr 2011, 19:22

#1 - spark from bottom and middle (original coil)
#2 - NO spark (original coil)
#3 - spark from middle, not bottom (new coil, coil is far down in the the rubber..not close to bottom)
#4 - spark from middle, not bottom (new coil, coil is far down in the the rubber..not close to bottom)
#5 - spark from bottom and middle (original coil)

SO, going to order a replacement for coil #2. Coil #3 & #4 are okay, right? Coils take 2-3 days to receive (not in local stores) but I'd like to continue working on it in the meantime, if the coil alone is not likely to fix it. What do you think?

We're out of daylight and will try the throttle test tomorrow.