Timing belt change success!!!

J_Guynn · Post by **J_Guynn** » 07 May 2005, 12:42

I just finished changing the timing belt on my 98 V70 T5. Really wasn't too bad of a job. The car had just over 75K miles and I didn't know if it still had the factory belt or not, so I figured a new belt was cheap insurance. Once I removed the serpentine belt I was fairly certain the timing belt was the original since the serp belt had no part numbers and was in pretty rough shape. Sure enough the timing belt had the Volvo logo on it.

My only point of frustration was getting the timing belt off and on past the little rubber covered thing behind the crank pulley. I did buy and use the IPD cam pulley tool, it's not 100% necessary but it did ease my mind. I also used the IPD serp belt tool kit...very handy.

To anyone who is considering doing this but not sure...I say go for it. Make sure you've got shallow and deep 10mm and 12mm sockets and/or end wrenches in that size as well as a T30 drive of some sort. If you don't have a 30mm socket to turn the crank with, you can use a 12 inch cresent wrench if you are really careful (the socket will make it much easier though). Also a vise to compress the hydraulic tensioner is almost a must have.

Most important, TAKE YOUR TIME (it took me about 4 hours with a 1 hour break included plus a few short pauses to refer to volvospeed.com) and follow the directions given on volvospeed.com. Anyone near Missouri City, TX that is wanting/needing to do this, get with me I'd be willing to help.

Post by **dosbricks** » 07 May 2005, 12:52

J_Guynn, thanks for posting this. I printed it off to add to my info collection since I am going to be doing the belt change on our S70 next month. I also got the ipd cam lock.

J_Guynn · Post by **J_Guynn** » 07 May 2005, 17:48

No problem, I figure if I can encourage someone to do the work themselves it will help them save money and have something they can take a little pride in. Heck, I've been turning wrenches for over 20 years but this is the first Volvo I've ever worked on...I was a little nervous going into this.

One thing for sure, check and double check your cam gear markings before you start taking anything apart. I probably checked them 3 times before I locked them with the tool. Also after reading the tech article through twice, I referred back to it (especially for the reinstall) often.

Make sure the timing belt is tight on the right hand side of the engine. I had to take mine back off twice before I felt it get tight on that side. When it's correct, there won't be any play in that side of the belt between the crank and the idler nor between the idler and the intake pulley.

Truth be told, reinstalling the serp belt took longer than installing the timing belt.

Post by **dosbricks** » 07 May 2005, 21:14

J, thanks for the additional. I'm going to order the parts this week. Since it will be the second belt change, I'm going to replace the water pump, idler, and tensioner. Looking for reliability through 200K.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 23 May 2005, 15:37

Dos,
The hydraulic tensioner usually does not need to be replaced. The mechanical one does need replacement.

One of the idlers takes a T45 bit, and you may have to grind it shorter.

I used a large socket, inch & something, on the crankshaft nut. Worked fine. Be sure to turn the engine over a couple of revolutions after you're done to check the pulley marks one more time and to be sure the pistons and valves don't hit.

Ken

Post by **dosbricks** » 24 May 2005, 14:22

Ken,
I still haven't ordered parts 'cause I'm waiting for my wife to drive one more k. I was planning to get a 30mm socket for the crank nut, but I had wondered if a reg. socket would fit close enough. I plan to pull the plugs to rotate it so should be fine. Also thanks for the tip on the torx bit.

I plan to replace the hydraulic tensioner while I'm in there since we are aiming at 250K or more trouble free miles.

If I wait long enough you guys will almost have the job done for me

J_Guynn · Post by **J_Guynn** » 25 May 2005, 07:38

30mm converts to 1.18 inches so 1 3/16 inch socket will be the closest. On my T5 I had no problem turning the engine over with a 12 inch cresent and the spark plugs still in place. If I would have had a socket it might have been almost too easy to turn over with a decent length 1/2 inch ratchet.

Having said that, if I ever do it again I'd prefer to have the socket.