Timing belt pulley install question

Post by **bags519** » 07 Mar 2013, 17:00

Is it possible to replace the pulley without having to move the belt excetera?

Everything else was replaced about 10,000 miles ago by the previous owner by mechanic but he did not replace the pulley

Thanks for your help in advance

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 07 Mar 2013, 17:13

The tensioner will need to be released and the the belt slackened to get the roller off. Which one are you changing? I would be inclined to also change the tensioner if it was not changed along with the last belt and that is not the pulley you are talking about.

You will need to go through the CVVT pre-load procedure and have things lined up to the timing marks before you try to remove anything as a precaution.

...Lee

Post by **bags519** » 07 Mar 2013, 18:01

I was planning on both the roller and tensioner if I was in there.

I'm assuming cams will need to be locked.. I've done twenty timing belts through the years. But this is my first with cvvt.

I will look over the tutorials.

Thanks

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 07 Mar 2013, 18:26

The CVVT procedure is pretty easy so long as the CVVT hub is not removed from the camshaft. Rotate the engine by hand, Clockwise) to the timing marks. Continue clockwise an additional 90 degrees.

Rotate the engine back (Counterclockwise) to the marks again. Replace whatever you are replacing and then align the CVVT outer sprocket to the timing mark as the belt goes on.

The cam locker might actually be an impediment but that is your call.

...Lee

Post by **regent** » 07 Mar 2013, 18:39

The cam locker might actually be an impediment but that is your call

The cam tool is totally unnecessary. If you take the plugs out, you can move the crankshaft by hand in very small increments to align the marks

If you are gentle, the sprockets will not have to move more than 1/2 a tooth if at all during the replacement steps.

Post by **bags519** » 07 Mar 2013, 18:54

Well that sounds a lot more familiar.

So the extra 90 degrees and back and realignment gets the cvvt hub where it should be.

Thanks for the clarification on that.

Sounds like maybe an hour to a hour and a half?

Thanks guys.

Post by **Matty Moo** » 07 Mar 2013, 19:14

Don't lock the cams. Do what Lee said and go forward then back. I botched my last t-belt job on a vvt motor by locking them. Out of about 8 t-belt jobs, that was the first and last time I use that locking tool.

It shouldn't take long because you won't have to remove the t-belt or the belt guard at the bottom of the crank.

Post by **regent** » 08 Mar 2013, 16:12

And you can always keep the belt snug with some elastic (or even secure it to the sprockets with tywraps), count the number of cogs between sprockets, etc.

Once you're done, regardless of your hurry and meticulous accuracy, before you even think about the ignition key, always verify that the timing train is clear of loose tools and leftover parts, then rotate the crankshaft a few revs by hand then check, check and then double check the marks - don't ask me how I know

Post by **bags519** » 08 Mar 2013, 17:33

I like the zip tie idea a lot, I can't believe that's the first time I saw that mentioned. Usually mark with nail polish or white out.

Post by **bags519** » 08 Mar 2013, 22:52

On the same note.. when it comes to parts.. I know everybody says stick with the blue box... but the local dealer wants $214 for the timing kit.

With weather being nice this weekend and my son being available (always like to involve him in my mechanical hobby)

My local choices are a dayco kit with the tensioner and pulley for $62 or from the dealer... I am not cheap but the car has 195k on it and I would think the dayco parts should last at least 40-50k.

Thoughts? Anybody use the dayco with good or not good results?