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1998 S70 Tf 357k TRANS LEAK _ RESOLVED with RMS Trans seal

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

backfoot100
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Year and Model: 98 S70 T5, 07 C70 T5
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backfoot100

1998 S70 Tf 357k TRANS LEAK _ RESOLVED with RMS Trans seal

Post by backfoot100 » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:42 am

I am in need of some assistance from the experienced tranny guys here. '98 S70 T5 has 357K miles. Been well maintained its whole life. Runs awesome. Tranny has been flushed every 30K miles and have had no problems at all. PNP, shift solenoids, and anything else you might be thinking are all OEM.
Just started leaking trans fluid from the weep hole between engine and trans. The last flush was 25K miles ago. Fluid is clear and clean. I'm guessing a torque converter or pump seal? Any other possibilities?
Next question is how to fix. I assume I have to remove the tranny completely. Do I remove from the top or bottom? With or without the engine? My mechanical abilities aren't an issue as well as having the tools I need but I haven't tackled anything like this before.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice and/or assistance.



cn90
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Re: Auto trans leak and fix help

Post by cn90 » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:49 am

Leaking from weep hole...
No. 1 suspect = Rear Main Seal
No. 2 suspect = Trans Input Seal.

No matter what, you are looking at a 9-10h job replacing the RMS and all 3 seals in the trans.


2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

jpr0204
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Re: Auto trans leak and fix help

Post by jpr0204 » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:58 am

Hi backfoot100,

"Just started leaking trans fluid from the weep hole between engine and trans."

This could also be the rear main crankshaft seal on the backside of the engine as well...

Either way, it would be a good idea to replace BOTH seals while everything is apart.

Engine would stay in the car using a suitable holding fixture from above. Tranmission would come out through the bottom.

Standard book time for this operation is 10.5 hours. That is will ALL proper tool and A LIFT. So allow yourself a bit more extra time. Not difficult but VERY time consuming.

We are all here to help and offer pointers if you so need.

- Joe


Current Vehicles:
00' Volvo V70 X/C SE (girlfriend's car) Currently at 112K miles
12' Yamaha V-Star 950 EFI Tourer (My daily summer crusier) Currently at 7K miles
95' GMC Yukon SLT 4x4 4-Door 5.7L 350 V-8 Currently at 120K miles

backfoot100
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backfoot100

Re: Auto trans leak and fix help

Post by backfoot100 » Mon Jul 01, 2013 9:07 am

Thanks for the replys guys.

FYI, the RMS was replaced several years ago by my indie Volvo shop. The experience I've gained over the last several years is the reason I'm considering doing it myself now.
The leaking fluid now is definitely not engine oil. It's tranny fluid. I was figuring to replace the RMS again anyway.

CN90,
By all three seals in the trans, I assume the input, torque converter and pump? Anything else that I should consider replacing?

Joe,
I have a hoist to hold the engine from above. Not a problem. I assume I need to remove the subframe from below, but I seem to remember a post where the subframe was just loosened up instead of completely removed. Any thoughts?
Loosened or removed, if the subframe does have to be disturbed, I'll have to remove a couple of engine mounts. I'll figure on replacing those too. With exception of the one under the crank pulley and the top mount, they're all OEM.



jpr0204
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jpr0204

Re: Auto trans leak and fix help

Post by jpr0204 » Mon Jul 01, 2013 9:19 am

Okay...

Here are the steps for my 00' V70 Cross Country AWD, all these steps should be very similar to yours except the AWD components (Bevel Gear, Propshaft, Etc...)

The below steps are Courtesy of ALLDATA:

Remove:
•Battery
•Battery Shelf
•Air cleaner (ACL) housing complete with intake manifold.
•Remove turbocharger (TC) control valve from ACL housing.
Remove:
•Throttle pulley cover. Unhook throttle cable from control pulley and bracket
•Charge air pipe (assembly with hose) between the turbocharger and the charge air cooler (CAC) . Remove the bracket at the torque arm support.
Reinstall stay and tighten nut.
•Air intake pipe (from ACL) to turbocharger.
Disconnect the charge air pipe (1) to the throttle body (TB)
•Hold the lower pipe to the charge air cooler (CAC) (2) to the side with a tie strap.
•Disconnect the upper engine oil cooler hose (3) from the radiator.
Remove transmission cable and connector
•Remove: Transmission cable from transmission
Connector from transmission. Remember rubber seal.
Clamps to the cable harness and ground lead on the transmission and sub-frame.
•Unhook the cable conduit from the transmission.
•Detach the H02S connector/connectors from the bracket on the transmission. Disconnect connectors.
Remove the following pipes to the transmission oil cooler:
The inlet pipe at the cooler upper quick-release connector.
The return pipe at the transmission.
•Remove oil dipstick pipe.
•Seal all openings with plastic plugs.
NOTE: Cars with EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation System: Detach hoses from the converter.
Remove screws between transmission-engine and transmission-starter motor (5 x)
•Lift radiator expansion tank from mounting and let it lie loose.
On Left-hand drive models: Remove lower steering shaft joint
•Turn the steering wheel so that the screw/nut to the lower steering shaft joint is as accessible as possible in the passenger compartment and in the engine compartment. Remove the ignition key so that the steering wheel is locked in that position.
•Remove the nut and screw from the joint in the passenger compartment. Remove the joint from the steering shaft.
•Remove screw and nut from the joint in the engine compartment. Press joint off steering gear. Remove joint.
NOTE:
•The steering gear position must not be changed so that the pinion is turned a revolution.
•The SRS-system contact reel can be damaged if this occurs.
Remove connecting components. Install lifting beam
•Disconnect ground strip from firewall.
•Remove screws on upper torque rod - torque arm at engine.
•Install lifting fork 999 5534 onto the engine torque rod.
Install lifting beam and lifting hook
•Install: Lifting beam 999 5006 on fender edges.
Locate the beam directly above the eye on the lifting fork.
Lifting hook 999 5460.
NOTE: When using the early version lifting hook (A), hook 999 5186 should be connected between the lifting fork and the lifting hook. Illustration (B) displays the late version lifting hook.
•Lift hook approximately 5 mm (0.196 inch) to relieve engine pads slightly.
•Measure and record the distance between lifting beam and sparkplug cover.
Remove:
•Front wheels
•ABS sensors from stub axles on both sides.
NOTE: Do not disconnect connector.
Remove:
•Brackets from brake pipes and ABS wiring (both sides). Detach the brackets and let them hang loose.
•Links to anti-roll bar on both sides.
•Remove screws to left engine mounting.
Remove:
•The front plastic nuts to the left-hand side fender liner
•Front Splash guard, both screws. Press the splash guard forwards to free the guides at the rear edge.
Free splashguard at front edge.
Remove it
•Drive shaft nuts on both sides. Use counter hold 999 5540. Remove nuts.
•Detach drive shaft end in the hub.
•Knock the end of the drive shaft approximately 10-15 mm (0.393-0.590 inch) into the hub. Use a rubber or copper mallet.
Remove:
•Tie rods from stub axle. Use puller 999 5259. Unhook the stay from the stub axles
•Control arm/ball joint from stub axle (both sides). Install protective sockets 999 5562.
On the right-hand side: Install holder for control arm
•Install holder 999 5563 to hold down the control arm.
•Press the drive shaft in to its inner position. Turn and fold out spring strut.
Remove the drive shaft from the hub.
Remove right drive shaft Remove:
•Drive shaft bearing cap
•Drive shaft. Carefully pull it straight out from the transmission so that sealing ring is not damaged.
•Clean off traces of metal adhesive from the spline joint (hub-drive shaft).
Disconnect/remove other components Remove:
•The charcoal filter holder with hoses (A) from the subframe. Cut off tie straps to hoses.
Hang up reservoir in bodywork.
•Connector (B) to the accelerometer
•(Remove) the cable conduit (c) mounting screw on the sub-frame. Unhook conduit from sub-frame
•Exhaust pipe clamp behind three-way catalytic converter.
Drain the oil Remove:
•Screw for the oil pipe bracket in front edge of the frame
•The two bolts securing torque rod mounting support on transmission.
•Drain transmission oil.
•Remove front engine pad screw.
NOTE:
•The oil should only be changed if the transmission or the oil is being changed.
•Tighten the drain plug to 40 Nm (29.5 ft 1b).
WARNING: Oil may be extremely hot.
Remove sub-frame from car
•Position mobile jack 998 5972 to support the left-hand side of the sub-frame, slight pressure.
•Remove the sub-frame support brackets screws (A) in the bodywork (both sides).
•Unscrew the two screws (B) between the frame and the bodywork (right-hand side) maximum 5 turns.
•Remove the screws (c) on the left-hand side.
•Lower sub-frame. Remove:
•Vibration damper (D) on the bevel gear
•steering limiter (E) from the sub-frame.
Remove left drive shaft
•Turn and fold out spring strut.
•Tap in drive shaft end.
•Use a rubber or copper mallet.
•Withdraw drive shaft from hub
•Remove drive shaft from transmission.
•Use jimmy bar tool No. 999 5462 between transmission and inside of drive shaft.
NOTE: Take care that the seal rings in the transmission and the boot on the drive shaft are not damaged.
•Install plug 999 5488 in transmission.
•Clean off traces of metal adhesive from the spline joint (hub-drive shaft).
Removing Bevel Gear
Mark up flange
•Mark the position of the propeller shaft flange in relation to the bevel gear flange.
NOTE: Mark up only if reinstalling the bevel gear,
•Remove propeller shaft screws.
•Use counterhold 999 5561. Tool modified for clearence as required.
•Remove shaft from bevel gear.
•Tie up the shaft to the front exhaust pipe.
Remove bevel gear
•Remove exhaust pipe bracket
•Remove other screws holding bevel gear.
•Lift down bevel gear
Removing Transmission
Lower engine and transmission
•Lower the lifting hook until the distance between the lifting beam and the spark plug cover is approximately 320 mm (12.298 inch).
NOTE: Make sure cables and hoses are not pinched or stretched and that the engine dipstick is free from the fan.
Install transmission fixture
•Install fixture 999 5972 and transmission fixture 999 5463 on the mobile jack.
•Install transmission fixture on transmission. Use torque rod stay screws.
•At the same time locate support plate (marked 999 5463-1) on the fixture. Install mobile jack lightly.
Remove torque converter and transmission screws
•Install counterhold 999 5656 onto the transmission as a sealing plug.
•Remove front lower plastic nut and fold out right fender liner.
•Remove torque converter screws (6 x). Use socket Torx TX 50.
Rotate crankshaft using a socket wrench.
This is to access all the torque converter screws.
•Remove the screws between engine and transmission (7 x).
Remove transmission
•Ensure that torque converter is removed with transmission and does not slide off stator shaft. Use hole in torque converter cover to press the torque converter down.
NOTE: Do not pry toward flange rim for the flywheel sensor.


Hope this helps and explains it a little better in detail for you...

- Joe


Current Vehicles:
00' Volvo V70 X/C SE (girlfriend's car) Currently at 112K miles
12' Yamaha V-Star 950 EFI Tourer (My daily summer crusier) Currently at 7K miles
95' GMC Yukon SLT 4x4 4-Door 5.7L 350 V-8 Currently at 120K miles

backfoot100
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backfoot100

Re: Auto trans leak and fix help

Post by backfoot100 » Mon Jul 01, 2013 12:54 pm

Thanks so much Joe.

I found something very similar to your instructions for 95-96 850, 940 and 960. Between the two I should be able to figure it out.

Very much appreciated.



wheelsup
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Re: Auto trans leak and fix help

Post by wheelsup » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:08 pm

This writeup is for a 95 850 but your 98 should be extremely close.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=53437

If you have air it will make it almost easy, if not I would buy a compressor and impact...

A hoist/cherry picker is needed to lower transmission down unless you think you can do it with a jack, personally I wouldn't recommend it.

Spend the $40-$50 at Harbor Freight for their engine support, it works fine and does the job.

Pump seal is ridiculously easy to replace...once the tranny is out :)

Image


1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 185,000 miles

wheelsup
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Re: Auto trans leak and fix help

Post by wheelsup » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:17 pm

Oh and 357k miles...congrats...


1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 185,000 miles

backfoot100
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backfoot100

Re: Auto trans leak and fix help

Post by backfoot100 » Tue Jul 02, 2013 7:54 am

Holy Crap Matt....Awesome write up. That's exactly what I needed. That will help me tremendously.

I do have air, a hoist and jack stands. I was originally thinking that I could just use my hydraulic jack to balance the tranny on from below. I can now see where that engine support would be the cat's nuts to free up my hoist so I can use that from above like you did. I'll definitely stop and pick one up.

I can also see what the RMS and pump seal look like. I assume the converter seal would be similar so no problems there either.

Yeah, 357K miles. It runs way too good yet to retire. I've run several vehicles welll over 200K and as they started getting up their in miles, you could feel that they just didn't have the snap that they used to. Not this car. It runs as strong now as it did the day we bought it with only 40K on it. I drive 100 miles a day and I just keep running the piss out of it to see if anything breaks, and nothing (so far....knock on wood). I really believe that I'll get 500K+ out of it. The engine, tranny and turbo have never been touched with exception of the usual things (seals, oil traps, radiators, struts, control arms, axles, hoses, etc.). Really normal wear and tear stuff but nothing major mechanically speaking.
It's not the prettiest looking any more. Quite a bit of road rash after that many miles (clear coat is starting to peel in several places) but the interior is still very good all things considered. Certainly not worth repairing at indie shop and/or dealer prices, but if I can do it myself, well worth every penny I can get out of it.



wheelsup
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wheelsup

Re: Auto trans leak and fix help

Post by wheelsup » Tue Jul 02, 2013 9:02 am

I'm not sure what a converter seal is

The only seals I know of are the RMS and pumps seal in that area unless you are taking the entire pump off and putting a new gasket behind it


1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 185,000 miles

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