1994 Volvo 850 ( Stall then no start )

mmd94 · Post by **mmd94** » 17 Aug 2013, 21:02

Hello, im posting real quick as im sure this is something stupid but yet i have never had this happen. I was driving home from work (10 miles) and about a mile from work, someone nearly hit me coming up the highway on ramp...I slammed the brakes Hard, meaning i left skid marks, but didnt hit him. I didnt see a problem at the moment, and nothing untill 4 miles from home, where i made a turn, slowed so a car may turn, and it shutoff. It has fuel, oil, and power(battery). The spark im unsure of, I tested it with no spark, but figured this may be an error seeing how i have had same issues and no spark was present. Coil, spark plugs, wires, Camshaft sensor, and air filter(if it matters) are new. I will check for codes tommorow but i do not believe its something mechanical or even a part. Any advice will help! Thanks!

1994 Volvo 850
Non-Turbo
DOHC - 20 Valve
2.4

mmd94 · Post by **mmd94** » 19 Aug 2013, 09:26

Hello, Im adding to my post couple things that I have done and noticed. The first is there are two codes. I believe i fixed them but still no start. The first code was, [A1 223 - TPS signal to low]. and the second, [A7 113 - Fuel gauge open circuit]. These are the only codes it shows. Also, I have tried starter fluid and it still has not worked or tried to start. I had a friend say it could be the alternator, however i thought u would atleast get a puff or some sort of start from it, i could be wrong. And lastly, i still get a small amount of whiteish vapor/smoke from the throttle body, from inside it. I believe its vapor not smoke, and it smells like fuel. any clue? could i have sticky exhaust valves or intake valves?

Post by **abscate** » 19 Aug 2013, 11:13

No cough or sputter with starting fluid points to either ignition trouble or major engine damage.

I think your near miss incident is irrelevant to the no-start condition. Work on diagnosing your ignition side.

Post by **jblackburn** » 19 Aug 2013, 11:22

I believe i fixed them but still no start. The first code was, [A1 223 - TPS signal to low]. and the second, [A7 113 - Fuel gauge open circuit].

How did you fix them? Did you replace the throttle position sensor?

If there were no check engine lights/codes before this incident, I would look towards an electrical problem causing both of these codes.

IF you are getting spark (please check - remove a plug, disconnect the leads for the others, and ground that plug to the head while having someone crank the motor over), then the throttle position sensor could very well be screwing up the fuel/air ratio. It sounds like fuel's being injected, though...it just might be too much.

mmd94 · Post by **mmd94** » 19 Aug 2013, 12:12

Im adding things as i go, I didnt replace the TPS however its terminals were dirty and i cleaned them. It seemed to get rid of the issue for now. I also noticed my check engine light doesnt turn off after couple seconds while the key is in position 2. Does this point to anything?

Post by **jblackburn** » 19 Aug 2013, 12:15

mmd94 wrote:Im adding things as i go, I didnt replace the TPS however its terminals were dirty and i cleaned them. It seemed to get rid of the issue for now. I also noticed my check engine light doesnt turn off after couple seconds while the key is in position 2. Does this point to anything?

That is normal unless the engine is actually running.

It got rid of the code, or you cleared the code? That one also might not re-appear until the engine is actually running.

mmd94 · Post by **mmd94** » 20 Aug 2013, 09:03

I have been testing some more, and possibly found a reason it stalled and will not start. I have not replaced the Crankshaft Sensor since I had the car. Could this fail while driving, and cause the car to stall, and later not start? When I get my battery charged again I will have the car test the sensor (OBD code reader).

Post by **jblackburn** » 20 Aug 2013, 12:21

Yes.

But many of the sensors will not throw codes unless the engine was running when it happened.

Test the resistance with a charged battery. Should be >200 and <400 ohms.

mmd94 · Post by **mmd94** » 20 Aug 2013, 15:14

I tested the Crankshaft sensor, and my Meter read 400 Ohms. would you replace or conisider this bad or good sensor.

nedro018 · Post by **nedro018** » 20 Aug 2013, 17:31

I have to no good ones on my bench stock one reads 3.89 M ohms other 3.99 M ohms. M means millions so 389,000,000 ohms etc. sorry, "2 known good ones"