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1999 S80 Oil Pan Removal

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on the Volvo S80 model. Sometimes called an "executive car", the S80 was and continues to be Volvo's top-of-the-line passenger car.
tbonemarelli
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Year and Model: 1999 S80
Location: 61764
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tbonemarelli

1999 S80 Oil Pan Removal

Post by tbonemarelli » Sat Mar 08, 2014 7:38 am

Hi, I am attempting to remove my oil pan(to replace sump orings,,,) and I'm having trouble removing the oil pan. I have the car on ramps with the bottom transmission mount removed, the passenger side engine mount unbolted, and the passenger side of the engine raised about two inches. I cannot get this oil pan out from under this engine. Has anybody else ever removed an S80 oil pan, and what am I missing? How far up goes the engine have to be raised and is there a trick to this??? Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks

Hitchensthinksnot
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Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:15 pm
Year and Model: S80 2000
Location: North Carolina
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Hitchensthinksnot

Re: 1999 S80 Oil Pan Removal

Post by Hitchensthinksnot » Thu Apr 03, 2014 4:14 pm

I'm replying in hopes that the next person attempting this can learn from my struggles. A volvo mechanic showed this to me. Crawl up into the engine compartment, like you're trying to look at the driver. Now, with a flashlight, look down on the firewall and you'll see a 15mm nut inside of a pie shaped hole. That's holding down the transmission to the body of the car, and will not let the motor raise enough to get the pan out, or in. You'll need to link all of your extensions in your garage together and you will probably drop the nut. I put a piece of paper in the socket to tighten the grip on the nut, and lifted it right out. Don't, DON'T mess with all the other stuff people are telling you to. You do NOT need to drop the sub-frame, mess with steering column, etc.
Here's what you'll need to do, and I won't write this like a repair manual. Harmonic balancer comes off, remove the two 14 mm bolts and the one 12 mm bolts holding the passenger side mount to the engine. There are two bolts, top and bottom, about an inch apart, those don't need to come off. Loosen the 17 mm bolts holding the mount to the frame, but only remove the forward-most bolt. Now, rotate the mount toward you and you'll see the fuel line, remove the 12 mm bolt from the two retaining clips, one on the oil pan, another by the ac pump. There's another mount on the sub-frame on the front of the engine, that's easy to remove the bolt, 14 mm I think, but it is attached to a bumper kind of mount. Tranny bracket comes off. Now, slide a bottle jack to the side of the transmission closest to the fire-wall, just in front of the back part of the sub-frame, use a block of wood so you don't punch a hole in the tranny. Strap oil cooler out of way, don't DON'T drain coolant. Oil will leak from the two holes, big deal, you're a nasty sight by now anyway. Bolt removal is what it is. When the pan drops free, you'll think you're home free, PSYCHE ! ! Now is when the real cussing begins. Ok, now back up top. I ran a couple of 2x4s across the width of the engine, and used boards along the inside rails, where the hood closes, and used a scissor jack under one side, passenger side, of the board, and put a strap on the eyelet on the front of the engine. Then, with everything free to move, I slowly jacked the engine up, and pushed the rear of the tranny up. I've read all kinds of posts telling people to undo all kinds of junk, it's not necessary. The sealant and o-rings you should know about by now, but, there's a check-valve inside the pan, right over the oil filter, that should be replaced too. Remove the oil tube, inside the pan, and pick-up tube and clean the pan. The o-ring on the pick-up tube is green (I think) not black. Might be good to write colors down as you remove them. You will only use 7 o-rings and 0 gaskets, unless it's a turbo. Hold the o-rings on the block with the pink goo. Yes, I would recommend a couple of dry practice fittings first. But I'm tellin' ya just jack the tranny up by the driver's side fire-wall, and the loop and it goes in better than the horror stories I've read online. Have fun...
These users thanked the author Hitchensthinksnot for the post:
bvit84

hobie18sx
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Joined: Mon May 05, 2014 2:34 pm
Year and Model: s80 2000
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hobie18sx

Re: 1999 S80 Oil Pan Removal

Post by hobie18sx » Mon May 05, 2014 3:24 pm

Hitchensthinksnot:

This is a lifesaving tip. After 4+ hours under the car with no results, I found the 15mm nut and had the oil pan out in 10 min. Thanks for keeping me sane.

neworion
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Year and Model: 2000 S80 T6
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neworion

Re: 1999 S80 Oil Pan Removal

Post by neworion » Sat Jun 28, 2014 9:37 pm

Below is a diagram of the oil pan and parts (for 2000 S80 T6 - probably identical to the '99) See this link for the parts list, description, part number. from http://www.volvopartswebstore.com

Below that a diagram, from http://www.volvopartswebstore.com, of the engine mounting hardware. Could anyone (Hitchensthinksnot) throw some arrows and circles on this diagram to illustrate Hitchensthinksnot's great write-up?

I'm going to be pulling my oil pan soon and with the above instructions this would be a great help!
Attachments
oil pan.jpg
Engine mount.jpg
2000 S80
2000 S80 T6

neworion
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Year and Model: 2000 S80 T6
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neworion

Re: 1999 S80 Oil Pan Removal

Post by neworion » Sun Jun 29, 2014 8:14 am

Has anyone used Permatex 518 / LOCTITE 518™ for oil pan instead of the Volvo version? Reviews on Amazon make it look like a viable and inexpensive alternative.

Anaerobic gasketing technology. Forms a flexible, solvent-resistant seal that will not tear or decay. Seals to 300°F and fills gaps to 0.050". Can be used on flexible metal assemblies, including aluminum surfaces. Easy disassembly and cleaning.
2000 S80 T6

bvit84
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Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2019 11:48 am
Year and Model: 2002 s80
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United States of America
bvit84

Re: 1999 S80 Oil Pan Removal

Post by bvit84 » Sun Mar 01, 2020 4:43 pm

Let me share my experience.
So in 2019 my Volvo S80 2002 (not Turbo, business class model) that I owned for 2 years was leaking some oil, it came with the small stains on driveway and buring oil smell after driving the car. Selling it didnt work (engine and airbag lights on) nobody wanted it for $1500.
That didnt stop us (2 adults and 2 kids) moving from Illinois to Washington... with a trailer through mountains:
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My 1st atempt to take pan out failed due to frame in the way, I was already counting the money to pay the repair guy. Afte bolting all back I heard a loud rambling noise. I found out later it was one of the long bolt near the tran that I missed the hole, this mistake made me actually to finish the DIY project:
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It took me about 2 weeks to fiish, after work or in weekends:
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The "Hidden" pie shaped hole:
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Harmonic balancer off (only the disc), to get access to engine mount:
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Thanks to this forum and Hitchensthinksnot the oil pan was out without dropping subframe:
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Attachments
20190807_185039.jpg
20190806_210105.jpg

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