'99 S-80 T-6 Replace left control arm
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SimLyons
- Posts: 806
- Joined: 3 April 2011
- Year and Model: 2001 V70 T5
- Location: Newberg, OR (Portland)
'99 S-80 T-6 Replace left control arm
I'm going to replace my driver side (Left) control arm. Does anyone have experience with this and have any tips? I've heard it's not difficult "if you have the right tools". Sure, I'd love to have a lift in my shop, but my jack and jackstands are going to have to do. What I see is a disconnect at the ball joint and the 2 bushings attached to the engine/trans cradle. Is that it? Thanks for any help!
Sim
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Oly_850
- Posts: 114
- Joined: 6 February 2011
- Year and Model: 2000 S80 T6
- Location: University Place, WA
- Been thanked: 1 time
This isn't a horrible job, just requires physics. Here's what I do:
Jack up the car, take off the wheel.
Use a 19mm 1/2 drive socket to remove the bottom bolt on the steering knuckle
Use a large pry bar or massive screwdriver or some instrument inserted into the circular hole in the control arm.
Pry downwards with a mighty shove, as the ball joint end comes out of the control arm, push it and the steering knuckle out of the way towards the right, you may have to disconnect the steering arm from the steering knuckle to move it far enough to work comfortably.
Release pressure on the control arm.
Unbolt at the subframe.
Install new arm.
Volvo probably calls for new bolts at the subframe which isn't a horrible idea considering what happens if they break.
I usually replace them in pairs.
Hope that helps?
Jack up the car, take off the wheel.
Use a 19mm 1/2 drive socket to remove the bottom bolt on the steering knuckle
Use a large pry bar or massive screwdriver or some instrument inserted into the circular hole in the control arm.
Pry downwards with a mighty shove, as the ball joint end comes out of the control arm, push it and the steering knuckle out of the way towards the right, you may have to disconnect the steering arm from the steering knuckle to move it far enough to work comfortably.
Release pressure on the control arm.
Unbolt at the subframe.
Install new arm.
Volvo probably calls for new bolts at the subframe which isn't a horrible idea considering what happens if they break.
I usually replace them in pairs.
Hope that helps?
'12 Ford Focus SE - Black Pearl
Owned:
'00 Volvo S80 T6 - Maroon
'98 Volvo V70 - Red
'90 Volvo 740 GLE - (sold, too far gone)
'96 Volvo 850 GLT - (totaled) :\
Want - A6 Quattro, XC90, C303
Owned:
'00 Volvo S80 T6 - Maroon
'98 Volvo V70 - Red
'90 Volvo 740 GLE - (sold, too far gone)
'96 Volvo 850 GLT - (totaled) :\
Want - A6 Quattro, XC90, C303
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
- Location: Melbourne Australia
- Has thanked: 8 times
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Yeah the clearance is bad at the transmission side however there are plenty of low profile ratchet sets on the market that can overcome this.matt5112 wrote:"Unbolt at subframe" required me to unbolt the engine mounts and jack the engine up off the subframe. This was to get the trans pan high enough that I could back the bolts out.
Ring spanners generally won't clear the subframe lip either.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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kahl
- Posts: 943
- Joined: 27 October 2012
- Year and Model: 2000V70XC
- Location: columbus ohio
- Been thanked: 10 times
use a offset box end wrench. these will get you around the oil pan or other items with no problems. No need to lift engine etc. several of the bolts you will not be able to remove. those are the bolts that should go in first to the new control arm.
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