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2015 s60r "big decision" time

How to go faster, stop quicker, and turn harder. Chips, exhaust, larger turbos, bigger/slotted/drilled rotors, high performance brake pads, manual boost controllers, performance shocks/struts/springs, airbox mods and more! Also discussion on HID and Xenon lights, aftermarket foglights and other exterior lighting.
05rfastr1234
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Year and Model: 2005 S60R
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05rfastr1234

2015 s60r "big decision" time

Post by 05rfastr1234 » Wed Jun 25, 2014 4:52 pm

I presently have a 2005 S60R (6-speed manual, of course), with approximately 225K miles on it. It runs well, still has good-to-very good performance, has always had Mobil1 synthetic in it from "day 1" and has had all factory-scheduled maintenance timely performed including a very recent install of new front adjustable struts (and I do love the four-c button-adjustable chassis). It has recently undergone a full PCV and "fire trap/box" service/parts replacement performed (to correct the usual crank-case pressure problems fixed). It does use about a quart of oil every 750-850 miles, though. I am not certain if it is time for the (also usual) valve sleeves / valve stem seals service, or if it is experiencing oil ring "blow by." The block oil seals also have not been checked. However, my dealer told me just today that with my existing car, and considering the mileage it has on it, the amount of oil use above is "not unusual" so long as the performance does not seem to be noticeably affected. So, first of all, is that statement true?

However, I only see a little bit of "blue" oil smoke on start-up when cold -- and never at all when driven only up to around 5K RPM at any speed up to, you know, "reasonable" speeds of, say, 100-120 mph or so. There IS a bit more of a "smoke trail" when driven "near yellow-line" / to "approaching redline" in 3rd and 4th gears, but not too much. There does not seem to be ANY smoking at high speeds in 5th or 6th gears. There also is no oil visibly leaking from anywhere, at any time, that leaves any visible oil on the driveway or when parked after use. It has NOT had the turbo connecting hoses removed to check for oil in the turbo, etc., and/or any bearing wear in the turbo itself, either.

Based on the above, it is time for "the big decision" -- 1) perform the valve-related services (or at least have a "visual inspection" done with the valve cover removed; I do not know, however, if the valve issues can be spotted that way, of if the Head must come off to be certain), have the turbo removed to see if that is causing any of the oil issues (and repair any issues that come to light), and have a compression test to see if the oil rings are bad; or 2) to start thinking about getting a new, 2015 R-Design (I believe 325 h.p. and 345 ft. lbs. of torque), while I still can before the "dreaded" 4-cylinder engine line "trickles down" to the S60 Line?

If I opt for no. (1), I would likely, in connection with any of the repairs required (or as an alternative to the applicable issues outlined above), install an aftermarket or used turbo, and "Polestar" the car with the cold-air intake, bigger down-pipe, aftermarket exhaust, a new "chip" and/or software -- which I have read can get me near or slightly over 400HP and a fairly significant torque and turbo pressure boost too (and, if I opt to keep the stock turbo, I know that, while it is out of the car for servicing, I can also install new IPD hoses and lines, etc., and also increase the boost to about 7-7.5 or so), thus providing some added power that way too. The only expensive unknown to the "rebuild-and-improve" route is, of course, the oil ring job.

If I opt for no. (2) -- while it would cost me up-front about the same as the above list of maintenance and performance add-ons to my existing ride, it would also leave me with monthly new car payments again!!! (although, surprisingly, under $400.00 per month). And, we all nonetheless hate new car payments!!! I am also a "little concerned" about how the new R "sport chassis" / suspension compares with the four-c adjustable chassis in my existing car too. But, I cannot help but think that, after almost ten years of driving my existing R, the technology in the new R chassis set-up must adjust itself via the computer on its own based on how it "senses" I am driving, as well as the road surface conditions?

So, to all of you other "R-Heads" out there, I need a little help deciding what to do!!! I would greatly appreciate at least a few helpful opinions.

I do know that my existing R is getting rare (with the 6 speed manual), and it still seems to run almost like it did when new (but for the above issues, which are all fixable). But, a car with 225K miles on it is, how do you say, still "a car with 225K miles on it" -- and even if the above issues are fixed, and the aftermarket stuff is done, other unknown issues are obviously going to come up.

Accordingly, some help definitely is needed, and I am sure that a few other high-mileage R-Heads are likely thinking about these same issues at this time, as well.

Thank,
05RFastr1234

jimmy57
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jimmy57

Re: 2015 s60r "big decision" time

Post by jimmy57 » Wed Jun 25, 2014 5:11 pm

No electronic suspension system on the new R Design. Just well tuned suspension and well selected struts and shocks.
Not that it isn't a very capable car.
The variable damping rate suspension system stuff never got huge. There are some cars using it but a lot of very expensive cars do not have it.

I have a 210K mile R and I'm about to do rings, head rebuild, turbo rebuild. Mine uses oil, has leaks at exhaust manifold, front and rear cam seal leaks, and needs crankcase vent box service. I'm going to be so close that it makes no sense for me to NOT put exhaust valves, valve stem seals, and since head will be off it will get rings. BUT just as you said i will still have a 210K mile car and there will be yet more stuff to do.

Not an easy decision for you. My R is my normal daily driver and a 2007 BMW 550i 6mt is the go to car I use for velocity therapy.

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