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1999 s70 battery drain

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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1997 - 2004 C70

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Re: 1999 s70 battery drain

Post by BEJinFbk » Thu Aug 28, 2014 7:34 pm

It looks like Fuse #6 also feeds Fuse# 10, and that shows as an ignition switch supply.
What happens to the current draw at slot# 6 when you pull fuse# 10?


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Re: 1999 s70 battery drain

Post by plettplett » Tue Nov 05, 2019 2:53 pm

Hi Folks,

Similar problem with my 2000 xc70. With a battery at 12.45 V, and the amp meter across the battery's negative stump & battery's ground terminal, fuse 6 is draining around 1.5 Amps. With fuse 6 pulled, the draw drops from 1.739 Amps to 0.296 Amps (296 mA), and with fuse 6 & fuse 15 removed it drops down to 25 mA (normal parasitic draw). Fuse 15 can remain out when starting the car, but fuse 6 can't. Fuse 6 is labelled "Central locking", fuse 15 is labelled "Glove compartment lamp, courtesy lamp, door warning lamps".

Some history... when it's cool outdoors the door & trunk locks fairly reliably open / close OK (using remote & on the drivers door Volvo OEM control panel. But when it gets hot outside most doors work erratically, they become "lazy". Some may push the lock button half way up, others may not push the button up at all even though they sound like they're trying! It seems the current draw should be attributed to at least 1 door lock.

So does anyone know how to go about isolating the problem to a particular door without removing the lock assemblies? Or is there something I'm missing here?

Thanks



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Re: 1999 s70 battery drain

Post by abscate » Tue Nov 05, 2019 4:06 pm

We have a couple of threads open on this issue. My S70 has this main fuse 6 drain and also a central locking problem

I’ll be deep,troubleshooting this over Thanksgiving when Evita comes home from college break


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Re: 1999 s70 battery drain

Post by plettplett » Wed Nov 06, 2019 8:48 am

Hey Captain,

Very funny. As a kid I used to bolt out of the house the moment my older sister started warming up her vocal chords. You wont be alone over Thanksgiving... my 2 teenage sons will be back from college.

I'm really forced to deal with a battery drain issue. My wife refuses to drive this thing, so I don't give a sod about the door locks, especially now that I've read that the real culprit are the resistors in the actuator motors. Living with the Miami heat, the car has had 6 to 7 locks replaced over 19 yrs or so. Currently - ONLY WHEN ITS COOL OUTSIDE - all open/close fully using both remote (keyless entry) & through the Volvo OEM drivers control panel. My wife reminds me the battery still gets replaced - on average - once per year. So now I've decided to try take things into my own hands - I bought a digital multi-meter.

Yesterday I posted the current draws. So I now see from the above post Fuse #6 also feeds Fuse# 10, so today I measured the current draw again, hoping to find out whether Fuse 10 is contributing to the draw. Now, not even Fuse #6 draws. Nothing, parasitic draw is 5mA. So I'm stumped - thinking is this an intermittent problem? Could it still be the lock actuators? Fuse # 10 (Keyless entry)?

The car starts after a long crank when battery is at 12.34 Volts. The alternator is putting out around 14.8 V. After 15 minutes idling, the battery is now at 12.75, and cranks up right away. The starter motor was erroneously diagnosed and replaced 3 weeks ago with a brand new Bosch motor.

Any ideas as to where I should turn next?



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Re: 1999 s70 battery drain

Post by RickHaleParker » Wed Nov 06, 2019 9:40 am

abscate wrote:
Tue Nov 05, 2019 4:06 pm
I’ll be deep,troubleshooting this over Thanksgiving when Evita comes home from college break
Where are the others?

Fuse #6 (11A/6) in the engine compartment?

Feeds fuses 11C/5 - 11C/10 in the CEM. (Under dash)

11C/5 Engine cooling fan (FC), Diagnostics, Standard heater, Manual climate control MCC, Electronic 15 climate control ECC
11C/6 Anti-theft alarm, Interior lighting, Central locking 20
11C/7 Radio, Radio with 4x50 W extra amplifier (S70N70) 15 (20 S70N70 DENSO/ME7 )
11C/8 Light switch, Instrument and control panel lighting, Immobilizer, Combined instrumentpanel 15
11 C/9 Radio (C70), Heated rear seat 20 (30 C70)
11C/10 Anti-theft alarm, Central locking

Pull 11C/5 to 11C/10 one at a time to isolate the parasitic current.


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Platform: X40 (Nedcar) 2003 S40, B4204T3, AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000. Plant: Born Netherlands.

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Re: 1999 s70 battery drain

Post by plettplett » Wed Nov 06, 2019 12:10 pm

Hi Rick,

Yes, Fuse 6 from the 2 x 18 bank fuse box under the hood. There's another fuse box next to it with some relays & 50 & 60 Amp fuses, and around 5 of 25/20 Amp fuses.

Interesting, I wasn't aware of there being more fuses under the dash. So the next time there's a healthy draw from fuse 6, first remove fuse 10 in the same bank (to see if its contributing to current draw), then - one at a time - pull fuses 5-10 under the dash. The battery has been replaced 3 times since last December, so I'll definitely let you know the outcome.

Thanks very much Rick,



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Re: 1999 s70 battery drain

Post by abscate » Wed Nov 06, 2019 1:37 pm

That 1.7 Amp draw will kill the battery quickly. It will take it to dead in about 2 days max, and a lead acid will only survive about 10 full discharge cycles before it croaks.

Im going to guess your parasitic is a lock motor in one of the doors sticking and straining to close - that would match the 1.7Amp draw roughly

My draw is only 200 mA - still about 5x too high - I suspect its the digital lock controller.


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Re: 1999 s70 battery drain

Post by plettplett » Wed Nov 06, 2019 2:25 pm

Hi Capt.

Well, very, very interesting. I'll buy it - your free logic - not more costly actuators. Of course a new starter motor was a non-starter. I have 3 cars, and the 2 of us at home don't drive much at all. That means the Volvo sits idle, a lot. For the past several months I have had to start/idle the engine to charge the new battery every 3 to 4 days. But more recently, like every other day. That confers with your knowledge of battery lifespans. Once done finding the problem, it will surely be time for yet another battery.

I'm wondering if there's a separate fuse for each actuator, or would they all be on the same circuit. Would each door panel need pulling to disconnect the actuator, one by one, until the intermittent draw stops? The thing is it will be very difficult to ascertain which locks are the culprits as they all misbehave when its hot outside. As we've been plagued with these door lock problems for so long, it would be nice if it could remain disconnected (as I can live with manual locking/unlocking on all doors - with the trunk being an exception -and have the $1K for 4 locks go to tuition bills). It seems like you've ruled out the digital lock controller.

I'm heading out now to see if the drain is back. Just a quick question - I've been disconnecting the neg terminal from the battery & measuring the current draw across the neg terminal & battery ground cable. Instead, would it be OK to leave the battery connected and measure voltage across the inserted fuse, and convert that to amps drawn?

Thank you very much Capt,



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Re: 1999 s70 battery drain

Post by abscate » Wed Nov 06, 2019 3:30 pm

I'm heading out now to see if the drain is back. Just a quick question - I've been disconnecting the neg terminal from the battery & measuring the current draw across the neg terminal & battery ground cable. Instead, would it be OK to leave the battery connected and measure voltage across the inserted fuse, and convert that to amps drawn?
No, that won't work. The voltage across the fuse will be zero, or very close. The fuse is just wire, and to a very good approximation voltage on a wire in between loads is constant.

You could measure the current with the fuse removed, but BE CAREFUL. Without the fuse, if there is a fault, you will pull full battery current of 100 Amps+ and that will be a really bad day.

You should be able to find the wiring diagram on line -see the MAJOR TOPICS thread above for info on that.


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Re: 1999 s70 battery drain

Post by plettplett » Mon Nov 18, 2019 7:14 pm

Hi-gh,

Well, the battery drain is still intermittent on my 2000 volvo xc70. Although I have not been able to duplicate the current draw, and in turn remove fuse 10 (as some one suggested) to see if that circuit is related, the problem does seem to be fuse 6 : "Central locking". When fuse 6 is in, it seems to take around 2 to 3 days to drain the battery from 12.6 to 12.24 Volts. With the fuse out, the drain is like from 12.5 to 12.48 Volts. Problem is the car won't start with the fuse out. Can the motor be trying to work even when the door knobs have been manually fully depressed / down?

One thing is for sure - the remote key fob & drivers door control panel (brand new from Volvo) do open ALL locks when the air is cool outside. When hot, all sorts of irregularities with the door knobs (sorry, have not verified turning the drivers door key twice to lift the other locks). I am not using the remote key fob at all, as I'm only opening & closing the drivers door in trying to isolate the problem. I'm now manually pushing the door knob down when locking the car.

I was wondering if anyone may have an idea what my next step should be.

Someone mentioned fuse 6 feeds other fuses, but I could not find any fuse boxes under the drivers side foot area. Could the key-less entry receiver be intermittent, drawing power, even when not being used through the remote?

Thanks for taking a peak at this.



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