98 v70GLT Front Caliper toast? Leak when depressing...

[TRuck]

Today I began to replace front rotors & pads on my 98 v70.

When slowly/carefully pressing piston back in to caliper brake fluid began oozing..then dripped from around seal. I cleaned it off with rag. It is not continuing to leak....unless, of course i push on the piston more.

ALSO, there was no evidence of it leaking prior to this.

BUT....safe to assume it is toast?? or needs to be rebuilt. I am holding off going forward with the install. Because I am pretty sure it is not good.

what are the chances a rebuild kit from fcp would work? The piston moved pretty easily back into caliper.
Outside rim of piston is fairly rusty as is caliper istself. But has been working fine.

Would I dare get a Duralast or some-such from autozone?....it is holiday weekend....was planning to use car...oh, well, guess I will be laboring....

thank you in advance.

[Ozark Lee]

If the leak is occurring without the piston being near the very end of its outward travel, the last 1/8" or so, then it indeed is a serious problem.

As far as a replacement goes you can buy rebuilt calipers from about any of the chain auto parts stores and they will be just fine. They are rebuilt OEMs. The last time I bought a caliper, I think it was from NAPA, they actually charged me a couple of dollars more for the core than they did for the caliper itself. I guess they really want the core back.

...Lee

[rmmagow]

I feel for you, I'm jammed up brake-wise this weekend too. The caliper is toast. The seal kits are more work than they are worth. A rebuilt caliper from AZ or NAPA or Advanced auto parts would work fine. I've used duralast before, they're OK. Rebuilt is rebuilt and probably all from just a couple of main line rebuilders. Price is good, warranty is good. Make sure you have good flare wrenches for removing the line. Buy a set at AZ if needed. The rebuild kits really need to have a clean piston and in my limited experience, just plain not worth the effort. Speaking from experience, check your brake hoses. I stuck trying to get them off my car as I type here. Good luck.

[TRuck]

Thanks both, for your replies.

I take back the part about not continuing to leak. just went to look at it, and it is slowly leaking fluid.

drip drip

Lee, when you say "core" you mean the...?

[TRuck]

ok.
just called them....i get the "core" deal. $50 in addition until you take it back......but have to order, so not possible til wednesday....
thanks guys

[j-dawg]

i used duralast calipers on a couple of old maximas and they were fine. nissan-stamped factory calipers with fresh paint, seals, etc. certainly better than i would have done with a rebuild kit, and not too expensive.

even besides rebuilt calipers, parts-store bits are generally fine for brake components - autozone isn't going to sell you anything that will get you killed. squeaky or dusty brakes are one thing, but when lives are lost, big lawsuits are filed. because of that, any extra money you pay for brake components usually doesn't improve braking performance or safety. there may be other benefits, but you're not putting yourself at risk by buying inexpensive parts.

[Ozark Lee]

Since you are going to need to bleed the system anyway this is a great time to do a full brake fluid flush. A flush is on the recommended service interval charts but it often gets ignored since you can usually change the pads and rotors without opening the system.

...Lee

[TRuck]

@ maggow: i am now in same boat as you. got hoses and calipers....but to get the hose off the brass cuppling..ugh ..got some flare wrenches from harbor freight...they suck. going now to get better ones from lowe's....pblasted the bi-jeezus out of it....heated it....no luck. just trying not to completely round off the pieces.
what a drag.

page two of this great write up has a tool. going to see if lowe's or the depot has something like it.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 1&start=42


lee, thanks....okay...yes, will do. I need to bleed the back brakes also?
I tried to bleed the brakes about 6 months ago with a friend helping and couldn't seem to get a constant flow in the tube. though i did siphon out much of the cloudy fluid from the reservoir. Also, one of the bleeder valves on back broke off. So I gave up.
thanks all

[Ozark Lee]

I need to bleed the back brakes also?

You should. The way I do it is to suck everything out of the reservoir that I can get with something like a turkey baster (Be sure to replace it before Thanksgiving or you will get caught) and then fill it with fresh fluid. I start at the right rear and purge it until it has the fresh fluid and then progress to the left rear (which will go much faster) and then right front and lastly left front. I use a Mityvac, pulling out the old from the wheels but it is easier with a Motive Power Bleeder. I chose the Mityvac since I can also use it to test other vacuum related systems while the power bleeder is a one trick pony. Just make sure that you don't let the reservoir run dry as you are pulling in the new fluid or you will need to start over again.

Here is a link to a video that shows the Mityvac in operation (the video version has a fancy one compared to mine).



I think I bought mine at Harbor Freight.

There is, of course the old school, pump up the the brake pedal and open and close the bleeder method but my assistant (wife) usually has had enough fun by the time I am halfway through the right rear. You can't properly bleed them without pressure in one direction or the other.

Be very careful with the brake fluid, it will eat the paint right off of the car if you spill it.

...Lee

[DML]

I have had great success rebuilding my VW calipers. Pretty simple really. The inner "O" ring and the outer dust shield. I make sure the cylinder and piston are clean. I keep a set on hand for emergency and that has paid off a few times.

On the bleeder valves you can insert a drill bit (the shank) and this helps as a stress relief and keeps the bleeder from crushing. Sometimes if they are really corroded I have had to just bit the bullet and remove the caliper and extract the bleeder with the caliper in the vice.