2001 volvo s60 stalled and wont start

tyronekndrck · Post by **tyronekndrck** » 28 Sep 2014, 00:49

i was parking at a gas station earlier and while parking my car stalled. started it twice right afterwards it started both times but died 1 sec afterwards. 3rd time it wouldnt turn over, my battery was dead which i knew was going bad. so came back with new battery still no start. so tried jumping but a no go. now im thinking my engine is shot because when getting off the highway i noticed oil light came on when making a really tight right turn. car actually drives like a brand new car no other lights ever came on my dash. now when i try to start it it sounds as if it can be a starter issue but it was just so sudden but why would the car stall in the first place. it looks like im going to lose my job now omg i need my car. but have any of you ever experienced this before or have any thoughts plz and thank you

Post by **abscate** » 28 Sep 2014, 04:39

Tyrone ..please don't use text talk on MVS per our TC

Good job topping off the oil, that will kill your engine quickly. Keep an eye on that at least weekly until you find out if your are burning,leaking or other.

No starts are often a failing fuel pump relay , I'll find a link to checking this and jumping this with wire to see if this will cure this. There is a great video on this posted by a Robert, aka rspi

Post by **precopster** » 28 Sep 2014, 15:40

P2s aren't commonly affected by a fuel pump relay issue. This was a P80 issue.

Is this a turbo or non turbo? ETM failure (electronic throttle) is more a nagging issue with this MY.

Check for fiel at the rail by pressing the small valve at the end. Fuel should squirt out. You have coil packs on this car. You can remove the covers and sit a coil pack atop the engine while cranking to check for spark. You will need a T30 torx for the cover & a 10mm socket for the coil packs. Depending on if it's a turbo or not you may also need a T25 and a 7mm socket.

Lowmiles · Post by **Lowmiles** » 03 Oct 2014, 10:51

hey guys I'm new here, and I dont want to hijack this thread only add to it if possible...

[quote="precopster"]
Check for fiel at the rail by pressing the small valve at the end. Fuel should squirt out...

The rail with the fuel injectors?
I have same symptoms btw (2002), but where is this in engine compartment? right, left, easy to see? mines a 2.4 non turbo, also why would I do this to see if the fuel pump is working?
thanks in advance

Lowmiles · Post by **Lowmiles** » 03 Oct 2014, 10:59

Post by **precopster** » 07 Oct 2014, 05:28

Yes the rail with the injectors is the one. There is what looks like a tire valve cap usually blue in colour on the right side of the rail. Unscrew it. The cap has an indentation which helps press the valve head. Fuel should squirt out.

gizmokip · Post by **gizmokip** » 07 Oct 2014, 12:44

This happened to me some months ago. I did a lot of work before finding out what happened to mine. Visually check your timing marks. If they don't then then your crank pulley gear may have wore off the crankshaft. Mine is the second 02 s60 that I know that had happened to this year. There are many other things that may have happened as well. Clean your throttle body, make sure you have spark on all plugs, doubt it's your fuel injector rail, but no harm in checking that as well. If you need more info look at my posts and follow the threads they are in as well to learn more.

Post by **precopster** » 07 Oct 2014, 14:43

Location of the tire valve cap is a test for fuel pressure from the fuel pump; not a test of the fuel tail itself.

gizmokip · Post by **gizmokip** » 07 Oct 2014, 15:33

but you can push it to drain the fuel in the rail, then turn the key, don't try to start, wait 10 seconds and then push it again. if fuel comes out then you are getting fuel TO the rail. no need to look at the fuel pump or filter. you can check flow through the filter simply by disconnecting the line (its a QD) on the filter, put a bucket under, and repeat the process.

Post by **precopster** » 08 Oct 2014, 06:37

On these P2s there's another shraeder valve at the filter near the right rear wheel. I'm not sure if the valve is pre or post filter (I suspect it's pre-filter) so you could compare the force of fuel flowing out of this one as well. If it seems much stronger than the fuel rail squirt you may have a blocked fuel filter.....worth a try and costs nothing.