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1995 850 GLT Save My Car - No Start

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Simply_Volvo
Posts: 9
Joined: 2 October 2014
Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
Location: Utah

1995 850 GLT Save My Car - No Start

Post by Simply_Volvo »

What Happen:
- Everything works except interior lights, 2 days prior it passed Safety and Emission inspection only needed both control arms for the front replaced with brand new ones.

-Left my job started right up no issues drove about a mile as I got on the on ramp to the highway I suddenly lost power as if my engine choked or I would of removed the ignition key stepped on the gas but to no avail i made it to the shoulder. Turned off the car puzzled and confused alternator maybe?

-I tried cranking the car and could here a grinding noise hmmm.... bad starter? I got a jump from a stranger and then my friends but nothing. they towed my car with a honda, a piece of me died that day =( hahaha...

What I've Found:
OBDII Codes: P0120// P0500
-Injectors work how do I know i pulled them out turned the ignition and I had fuel come out.
fuel check

-Compression it was working fine I don't know how to check but I assume it should be okay.
Compression maybe?

-no spark checked by grounding spark plug to my engine my spark plug didn't make and arc or spark

What I've done:
-Changed ignition coil when i check the voltage blue wire to ground I get 11.5 volts same as battery charge? should be .7-1.3 right? (Changed my ignition 3 times already all give me the same reading)
-Replaced cam/camshaft sensor tested with multi meter forgot the readings but i can post if it will help diagnose.
-Throttle position replaced reads 1024 ohms when turned off I belive it should be 900-1000 at idle but i don't think 24+ ohms should affect it correct me if i'm wrong.
-VSS (Speed sensor) on the bottom of the transmission was replaced as well ohms on old and new one read about 1800 Ohms? I think it needs to be 200-400 ohms
-Replaced the rpm sensor I thought this was the speed sensor at first sensor on top of transmission tested and works.
-erased all dtc codes from OBDII and P0120 keeps coming back?

I know this is a lot to read thank you for your time any help would be appreciated I know everyone takes time out of there busy lives to help on this forum umm.. I Love this car I put in a custom roof top new seats from v70 and I want to keep it on the road so I can pull the honda next time to redeem myself =)

JDS60R
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Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
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Post by JDS60R »

Ok - 2 things stand out.
The grinding noise ??????
and No start

With the ignition on, we need to see battery voltage on one side of the coil and then a pulsed ground on the other(these are the terminals on the coil next to the ignition wire that goes to the distributor). It sounds like you found the battery voltage on one side (B+) but we need to check for the pulsing ground ( this pulse is what makes the coil fire its energy). Take a test light and hook the clip to the positive lead of the battery, then hook the other end to the ground pulse terminal on the coil ( not the battery voltage one - the other one) . Have a friend turn over the engine and see if the pulse is there ( by checking the test light for flickering).

Let us know.

If the ground pulse is there then the coil, distributor, wires or plugs are at fault. We will go down the line and test until the spark stops jumping .

To rule out the coil pull the coil wire from the distributor and place it very close to a ground ( do not use the battery ground terminal as some batteries vent dangerous gasses). Use the engine or a clean bolt near the coil. You can test if the ground is good by taking your test light ( still hooked to battery positive termial and touching the bolt in question to see if the test light illuminates.
Retired

Simply_Volvo
Posts: 9
Joined: 2 October 2014
Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
Location: Utah

Post by Simply_Volvo »

Thank you for your reply JDS60R

-I did Try grounding the wire (going from the ignition coil to the distributor) had a friend start the car and did not see a spark.

But I will give it a go tomorrow & I'll post pictures in case I'm doing it wrong. I will also be replacing the pnp switch, I had a bad battery which leaked acid and I'm afraid it could have damaged it and may be part of the problem.

tryingbe
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Post by tryingbe »

Did you check the timing belt and make sure it is still intact?
85 GLH, 367 whp
00 Insight, 72 mpg

Simply_Volvo
Posts: 9
Joined: 2 October 2014
Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
Location: Utah

Post by Simply_Volvo »

Thanks Tryingbe

No haven't checked the timing belt will check it today as well. would that cause no spark?

JDS60R
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Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
Location: Mount Juliet, TN
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Post by JDS60R »

Yes -timing belt being broken would cause many issues including not turning the cam which is where the cam sensor gets its signal. No signal= no spark . This is where the coil pulse ground test is important. If the pulse is there then the belt is turning the cams . ( belt still may have slipped - grinding noise)

Test for the ground pulse and let us know.
Retired

Simply_Volvo
Posts: 9
Joined: 2 October 2014
Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
Location: Utah

Post by Simply_Volvo »

Used a test light to check the pulse

What I found:
Battery is hooked up/ connected and when I tested it while the car was off I had a solid light no pulse when I had my friend turn the key the light went away and I had no pulse, as soon as he took the key out i was back to the solid light. I'm uploading the picture showing where i was testing the positive lead on the battery and the Blue wire which I believe is the one that sends the signal to the coil?

Let me know if i did it right/wrong and I will be checking the timing belt to see if it's broken. Thank you everyone for all the help.
Attachments
my setup
my setup
blue wire on ignition
blue wire on ignition
positive lead on battery
positive lead on battery

Simply_Volvo
Posts: 9
Joined: 2 October 2014
Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
Location: Utah

Post by Simply_Volvo »

Used a test light to check the pulse

What I found:
Battery is hooked up/ connected and when I tested it while the car was off I had a solid light no pulse when I had my friend turn the key the light went away and I had no pulse, as soon as he took the key out i was back to the solid light. I'm uploading the picture showing where i was testing the positive lead on the battery and the Blue wire which I believe is the one that sends the signal to the coil?

Let me know if i did it right/wrong and I will be checking the timing belt to see if it's broken. Thank you everyone for all the help.

Simply_Volvo
Posts: 9
Joined: 2 October 2014
Year and Model: Volvo 850 Glt 1995
Location: Utah

Post by Simply_Volvo »

I think we might have found the problem guys :D
Timing belt was loose and when I pulled it out I had a couple pieces, I will be replacing this today hopefully done by tonight and will be holding off on the pnp switch for the moment.

Really appreciate everyone's help and input very hopeful but I'm not calling it a victory until it purrs and runs.
Attachments
DSCN0004.JPG

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Don't move that engine with the belt out!!!

How many miles are on this car?
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