2000 V70R - Rear brake rotor removal

Post by **scot850** » 23 Nov 2014, 17:39

I decided for the hell of it to remove my rear brake rotors to check the rear e-brake system and also do a write up for the forum. So far the brakes are different to what I remember for my 1998 V70 XC. I had difficulty removing the rear caliper as it uses the same 7mm 'Allan' key locating pins as the front caliper. There is insufficient room to access the pins with a 7mm 3/8" socket and wrench due to the proximity of the rear coil spring. Typically all my Allan key sets omit a 7mm as an option. Used a Vice wrench gripping the socket to remove for now, but will have to find a better option for re-assembly (Suggestions??).

The point of the thread is how are the rotors held in place? Once the mounting bracket for the caliper was removed, (I have loosened off the adjuster for the e-brake), but can't get the rotor to budge even carefully whacking with a hammer and a block of wood. Is the rotor on this car unique, and is it held in place with the center nut for the rear axle shaft?

Thanks,

Neil.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 23 Nov 2014, 18:26

Have you removed the locating dowel for the wheels? This dowel screws into the rotor itself and is used to orient the wheel correctly.

Post by **kahl** » 23 Nov 2014, 19:59

Don't ask how I know, is the emergency brake off?

Post by **scot850** » 23 Nov 2014, 21:02

There is no location pin or bolt in this case. I may fit one but you can't use a location pin as the wheels I am using don't have the deep pocket for the pin. Good point though!

In my original post I did say I had backed off the adjuster (hard to do if the park brake is on), but again it is worth a note as I plan to do a write up on the process so I'll try to remember to add that in also.

I did eventually get the rotor off. Took a lot of work, but I scraped the build up of rust that had built up around the edges of the lug-nut holes. This meant I could see there appeared to be a gap between the rotor and hub. Sprayed a lot of PB Blaster around the holes (carefully) and scraped with a fine scraper around the center hub recess and could see no evidence of a join. Sprayed with PB again and left for a while. Remembered I had a 3 legged puller in a draw (bought 'just in case"!). Not ideal as it is a little narrower than I'd like, and carefully positioned it in the cooling slot (can't get behind the rotor because of the dust-shield). Carefully tightened the puller to give a slight strain, then gave a few taps around the hub edge of the rotor. Repeated a few times and noticed a slightly larger gap appeared in the lug-nut holes. Hit with a hammer again, and re-tensioned. Finally gave the back of the rotor a hit with a hammer (block of wood placed on the rotor for protection) and with a clunk it came off. The back of the rotor was rusted to the hub. I'll show pictures in the write up.

Just hope I haven't damaged the rotor, but at least if I have to remove again it should be easier!

When I re-install, would you put any Vaseline or a layer of WD40/PB blaster between the faces of the hub and rear of the rotor to try to prevent the rust re-occurring?

Appreciate the advice and support as always!

Neil.

Post by **taxi** » 24 Nov 2014, 04:03

Hi! I am just going to address the last question: All surfaces between hub-rotor-wheel must be clean with no grease or dirt of any kind on reassembly. Otherwise too much force will be transferred to the wheel nuts/screws.

Post by **abscate** » 24 Nov 2014, 05:58

You can wire brush off the corrosion and grease them lightly to stop them from freezing up again, especially in salt/slush/snow environments. Don't coat, just sort of 'wet' them with grease.

Keep grease away from the rotors and the braking surface of the parking brake shoes of course.

Grease up those adjusters heavily so you can turn them when needed. If you put new shoes on, it will be another 10 years before you have to go inside this wheel again.

Post by **mecheng** » 24 Nov 2014, 06:22

Use anti-seize. Grease, oil, anything else all eventually evaporate/dry up/ wash away.
Anti-seize works by having a layer of nickle or copper remain between the metals once the carrier grease dries away to prevent seizing.

Its like Franks Red Hot sauce: I put that shi* on everyting!

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 24 Nov 2014, 07:55

I would use high temp brake grease, a very thin coat.

Post by **scot850** » 24 Nov 2014, 10:52

Again thanks to all who responded!

I plan to wire-brush the rust and carefully sand to clean. I planned to use a tiny film of either brake silicon grease or anti-seize. Just enough to seal the surfaces and keep some of the moisture out if possible. Having said that, the car will be going up for sale once I've completed a few more small jobs, so the next removal will be someone else's problem!

Neil.