DIY: 1998 S70 GLT Ignition Tumbler FREE Fix! Topic is solved

[cn90]

Just replaced the ignition switch (electrical portion) on my 2005 XC90 2.5T.
While there I removed the bottom plate on a preventive basis.

The XC90 setup is virtually identical to the 1998 S70.

- Removed the bottom plate, now key cannot go past position 0 and SW is locked!

- I thought I bricked the tumbler! After some thinking, I did the following:

* Get a pick tool and a pair of pliers (small tip) and grabbed the small little pieces out. Still no go, key still stuck.
* Now I decided to remove the tumbler: dremel tool to cut slots on the tamper-proof screws, used punch/small hammer to tap it out.
Sweet surprise, the XC90 used no Loctite, so it came out nice.
* Once the tumbler is out, use a small hammer and tap the SW Lock Rectangular Piece down.
* Re-install everything.

All is well now.

So if you think you brick the tumbler, you did not. Do exactly as shown and you will save the tumbler.

[cn90]

I did the plate dremelling method and unlocked my SW lock function, thought I fixed the problem but the issue still persist.

I cannot turn my key at all and it is stuck in position '0'.

If someone have something like this happened with you too, care to share how you solve this problem?
I'm a college student in Pensacola and money is not my strong suit, hence why I'm looking for DIY fix unless there's no other way.

Simple solution:
- Remove the tumbler (use a dremel to cut slots in the tamper-proof screws, then use chisel/hammer to drive it out with screwdriver).
- Use a small hammer and tap the SW Lock Rectangular piece down while wiggling the key (the Rectangular piece was somehow locked into the vertical position).
- Then re-install everything.

So, if you think you brick the tumbler, you did NOT.
Just follow the instructions as mentioned above.

[baxtex]

...Anyone having success with this method for when the key just spins 360 degrees?...

Old post but important for future reader re "360-degree spin".

If you ever open the Ignition Switch (Electrical portion on the LEFT side of steering column), then you will see the inside anatomy of it.
There is the "Start" and "Stop" detents on the inside. This allows the key to stay at "0" position and to stop at Position III or "Starter Motor".

If you are too rough on the key (turning it with too much force), eventually, the inside anatomy is screwed up and now you can turn the key 360 degrees. When you get to the stage, the only solution is a new ignition switch, which is about $55 for Volvo Genuine part. Do NOT buy aftermarket.

Anyway, take your time and READ this nice ignition switch DIY by abscate:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=80191


PS: The FREE fix is still going strong since I did it in Dec. 2014!

I just opend the box and it seem to have helped, haven't had the key spinning issue for 2 months.

[GoldCO]

good info here...
FWIW i was able to simplify even further, as i wasn't parked near garage (for power or air tools) -- instead of dremel, i just used a chisel and was able to tap lightly with hammer back against the crimp, peeling away the soft material around the perimeter. then wedging a screwdriver in the valley of the plate on the backside i was able to torque it enough to also get a flatblade along the front edge. levered the plate down slowly (straight out) enough to be able to get the broken tab out. at that point i realized i could now tap the plate back into place since it wasn't damaged and still fit snug.

here's my question though: no spring fell out for me, and upon closer inspection of the OP photos i'm thinking it is because the spring is actually directly under the plate (which i didn't remove fully). so, what is that spring pushing up against (purpose-wise)? during the hammer/chisel phase the "relocker pin" (as i've seen it called) fell to the floor. do i need to go back in and remove the plate completely to also get the spring out of there? or can i leave it be?

key seems to be working fine now (i had the dreaded no-turn-at-all issue), but i haven't put it back together just yet.

i do have to go to work soon though, so i suppose if nobody responds soon i'll just put it back together and try my luck as-is.

thanks in advance.

[GoldCO]

well, seems like all is good!
put it back together and key turns smoother than ever. and, i still have wheel lock.
thanks for the intel, CN90.


P.S. i'm in an '05 V70T5 so this fix isn't just limited to S70s..

[GoldCO]

well, too good to be true... after ~3 weeks working fine, key once again stuck in position 0 and steering wheel is locked.
pulled the bottom of the column off again, and pried the plate once again. nothing fell out this time. i used a small screwdriver to snag the spring in case that was causing the issue. still nothing.

so now i'm wrestling with the d@mn security bolts. maybe i have the wrong cutting disc, cuz it isn't working so well, mostly sliding around. using a chisel i've got one side to spin just a bit (1/2000 at a time!) but at this rate this is gonna take 4 days.

i'm hoping that if/when i get this out that the advice above will work: tap that rectangular piece down (will it come out now with no spring below?) and whatever else might be jamming the tumblers still.

[GoldCO]

* Once the tumbler is out, use a small hammer and tap the SW Lock Rectangular Piece down.
* Re-install everything.

FINALLY got the security bolts out...

Important question: what pushes that SW lock block ("rectangular piece") up to lock wheel? Is it the spring in the assembly, which I've now removed? I really don't want to put this all back together only to have the wheel lock on me again.

Please advise ASAP.

[chrism]

I just went through this issue a couple days ago on my 2003 V70 235,000 miles.

Starting into it, I didn't know if the problem was within the steering lock assembly or within the tumbler. Once I had it out on the bench I realized the cylinder would have to come out before I could isolate the problem. Even though this video was created to explain a different fix, it was my savior in that it shows how to get the cylinder out:



If you notice in the video, when he drills the four holes, he locates them at a 45 degree rotation relative to the lock assembly. That's important I found out the hard way - ended up having to drill two more holes in order to release the keeper ring.

As it turned out, I found that my key would get stuck in the OFF position simply due to the wear of sliding the key in and out for the last 15 years. When the key is inserted it causes 8 "blades" or "pins" to retract into the tumbler and release their grip in the channels inside the cylinder. When the key is inserted it slides through slots in each of the 8 blades, Well, over time, those slots get worn (elongated) so when the key is inserted it doesn't fully retract the blades out of the channel in the cylinder. So then the key won't turn out of the OFF position. When you get ready to pull the tumbler out of the cylinder make sure you have the key inserted so that the 8 blades and 8 tiny springs don't spill out. Once the tumbler is removed from the cylinder, make note of which blades are protruding beyond the outside diameter of the tumbler, and by how much. I pulled each of the blades out of the tumbler, one at a time, with a couple short lengths of heater hose holding the remaining 7 blades in place. (You have to remove the key to remove any of the blades.) I then filed each blade down a bit at the protruding tip, retaining the original arced shape. Test fitting the blade and spring back into the cylinder and inserting the key told me whether I needed to remove any more material or not.

Then it was back together again, which goes quicker than the disassembly.

[erikv11]

FYI for anyone not wanting to shell out the $$$ for a diamond cutting wheel that you may never need again:

I did this fix today with just a standard Dremel cutoff disc, one of the thicker ones. In the case of my V70 the key wouldn't return back to position zero, so it was stuck in the tumbler. I could still turn the car on and off. I made cuts, pried the plate down with a screwdriver placed around the edges at a few spots, pried enough to release a small broken piece, now the tumbler turns freely again.

You will still need to buy a Dremel if you don't have one, but at least that's a tool you will find many future uses for.