I am stumped. I have never had so much trouble changing a door latch in my entire life! Until I get this resolved, I have no way to get to work. I've been searching for hours for any possible solutions, to no avail. This seems like a very unique problem.
Ok, here's the story. Bought a 98 S70 a couple months ago, and it came with two keys: one for the door/trunk, and another for the ignition. The key fob unlocked and locked the doors (sometimes it takes a few button presses to get it to lock, but it will...), except for the driver's side door, which it would lock, but not UN-lock.
Taking things apart to try and get the window back (that's a whole other story, I may make another post on) after it dropped out of the track (problem from the start) I found that the lock actuator moved in an attempt to unlock the door, but something was broken and it can only lock the door. So I figured, since I was going to the scrap yard for the green window rollers, I would get a new latch assembly to replace this one. Not too hard of a job, right?
I tear the door down, change out the latch, reassemble everything. I was listening to the radio at the time. At one point, I had seen the emergency flashers flash for a little bit, but I figured one of my tools had slid down and hit the button, and continued what I was doing, not paying attention to my car. Apparently, that was the alarm system, because now, I have NO power locks whatsoever on either side - with or without the remote; its like the remote no longer works, but the battery is fine; no under-dash courtesy lights, can't open my trunk, can't open my fuel door, and last, but not least, CAN'T START MY CAR!
I made sure that the manual lock in the door handle was working properly when I put it back together, and I can lock/unlock that door with the key or the knob, as well as the trunk. I can also bump-start my car (5 speed), but it won't engage the starter. The security LED light in the center top of the dash does nothing; the Anti-Theft light on the stereo is flashing until I put the key in, but the radio works just fine.
HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I took the door all the way apart.... AGAIN.... and hooked up the original actuator just to see if the system was pissed about the new latch, since I have no idea what these things are capable of, though it seems to be a lot of things.. Nothing. Wish I wouldn't have bothered, now I have to put everything back together.
All the connectors and wires to the door panel, etc, seem fine, so I don't think I screwed anything up removing the panel. My scan tool shows nothing outside of what has already been there (P0133 and 2 other related codes), so I'm assuming if there would be any special codes, I'd need a Volvo scan tool.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! I'm stumped. I disconnected the battery just for S's and Grins, been disconnected an hour or so now, think I'll just leave it and try again in the morning. Maybe someone will have seen this and responded.
Oh, and yes, I've locked/unlocked the door with the key when it was in the car, and a screwdriver since I pulled the latch out of the door and nothing.
Thank you for reading my novel, hopefully it gave enough information to be useful, and this is an easy fix. Can I bypass the alarm system somehow so I get everything but the alarm back, and still have remote unlock capabilities?
1998 S70 T5 - Cannot disarm VGLA after door latch install
- BEJinFbk
- Posts: 4070
- Joined: 05 Jan 2008, 22:32
- Year and Model: '98 V70 R
- Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
- Has thanked: 94 times
- Been thanked: 146 times
I may be wrong, but aren't there two connectors to
the actuator that, IIRC, are the same? Any chance
that you swapped them? Maybe unplug the unit
completely and see what happens?
the actuator that, IIRC, are the same? Any chance
that you swapped them? Maybe unplug the unit
completely and see what happens?
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... 
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bigt8r
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 03 Feb 2015, 13:55
- Year and Model: 98 S70 2.4l T5
- Location: Portland, Oregon
Yes there are, one has 3 wires, the other has 4, and the connectors are the same way, one has a pin missing and 3 wires, the other has 4 pins. I did attempt to reverse them, and it fits, but the courtesy light on the door jamb stops lighting up when I do that. BTW, that (door) light only works when the latch thinks the door is open; spin the wheel, like it would if shutting door, and it turned off. None of the other courtesy lights work when door open.
- misha
- Posts: 5437
- Joined: 07 Dec 2008, 16:09
- Year and Model: 2010 Volvo S80 D5
- Location: Serbia
- Has thanked: 155 times
- Been thanked: 432 times
Did you check the fuses?
If they are ok,immobiliser is kicked-in.
If they are ok,immobiliser is kicked-in.
2010 S80 D5 / restyling / fully equipped / Twin turbo / Savile Gray Metallic (492)
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
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bigt8r
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 03 Feb 2015, 13:55
- Year and Model: 98 S70 2.4l T5
- Location: Portland, Oregon
Wow, do I ever feel like a moron... Lol! It was fuse number 6 for the central locking system. Immobilizer fuse #4 was good to go, but number six was done for. Well that cost way too much time to fix, and I still have to put the door back together, but thankfully, it was a quick and cheap and easy fix. Thank you for reminding me to check the simple stuff first!
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