1999 V70 N/A ETM replacement

Shappy · Post by **Shappy** » 12 Apr 2015, 08:04

Posted yesterday on Don's ETM room but thought I'd try here also in case someone has done this ... A couple of questions - yesterday I bought a used ETM (white label), said to be good, from a turbo '99 V70 to use as a spare for my '99 N/A V70 FWD auto trans. Will it just plug'n'play? Does it matter if the spare came from a V70 with different trans or AWD? If it won't work would XemodeX be able to use the spare as a core for rebuilding for my V70 or would I have to disable my wagon for a while and send in my ETM as a core? I've recently had the surge idle symptom and I'm just preparing for the anticipated need to replace or repair. I bought this V70 a year ago with 80,000 original one-owner miles and complete service history from new. It now has 85,000 miles, very well maintained and runs sweet with the one recent exception of the idle issue. Any help or suggestions welcome. Thanks!

: VolvoRF.jpg (641.66 KiB) Viewed 1245 times

Bob

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Apr 2015, 10:00

I guess you already bought it so that is water under the bridge. A white sticker ETM is trouble but it is a fine candidate to replace the position sensors on.

If the ETM came out of a car with the exact same engine (another N/A) it may work or it may not work - it may require a software download. If it came out of an XC or a turbo it will not work without a software download. Software downloads are expensive and I would not get a download to a white sticker ETM that had not had the Sacer position sensors installed on it.

...Lee

Post by **kahl** » 12 Apr 2015, 10:17

I have installed two ETMs in cars with no issues or plug and play. Donor car matched install car. If you install the cars original ETM a with the XemodeX mod it should be a direct install without software flashing. This is based on the 4 2000 V70XC that we have in the family out of the 8 family Volvos.

FWIW fellow member Carboncow who is just down the street had similar surge issues. He was thinking ETM until he found the Temp sensor in the lower turbo pipe had popped out. Meaning vacuum leak. His car did not throw a CEl.

Shappy · Post by **Shappy** » 12 Apr 2015, 13:35

In my case the donor vehicle and mine are not the same - donor was turbo mine is N/A. Would anyone be interested in swapping this 'spare' turbo ETM (said to be from a good running car but at worst good as a core) for one from a N/A car?

Post by **precopster** » 12 Apr 2015, 15:04

You really need to read codes on your existing working ETM before planning any upgrades for it. Once you have some codes from the engine ECU post them in.

It would be pointless to buy one from the same engine type because there are around 8 program variations that Volvo released for the auto transmission 1999 models.

If you can get hold of a Dice scanner and laptop (you don't need to install Vida at all) there's a member here on MVS that can program ANY ETM over the internet for not a lot of money.

XeModex only need your VIN; just leave the rest up to them.

Shappy · Post by **Shappy** » 20 May 2015, 19:39

In preparation for replacing my ETM with the XemodeX unit I wanted to move the ETM cable from behind the starter for better accessibility. I attempted to remove the bracket attached to the block at the end of the starter. When attempting to remove the 2 nuts that hold the bracket to the starter the 2 long bolts turned with the nuts. Rather than have the starter come apart I tightened everything up again and came here to see if anyone has a suggestion as to how this can be done successfully. Are those 2 long bolts just studs that are threaded at both ends? Or is there another nut lurking between the bracket and the brush end of the starter? Are the studs/bolts tightened into the bendix end of the starter by fingers or by double nutting, or ?? I'd like to know what I'm dealing with before having it come apart on me. Also I found the ETM cable connector to be so tightly connected to the chassis connector that it would not budge. I don't want to break the connector so would like some tips on that also. Everything else looks pretty straightforward but this is as far as I got. Thanks!

Bob

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 20 May 2015, 20:27

There is a single tab that needs to be depressed to release the connector. The locking tab goes through a loop on one of the long sides of the connector shell. That tab may have a secondary lock that goes through the tab, I can't remember for sure but if it does be sure to remove the secondary lock first.

Even with that tab depressed though the connector tends to come apart hard. At least it isn't one of those connectors that has multiple locks that need to be simultaneously released while pulling the connector apart.

...Lee

Post by **precopster** » 21 May 2015, 03:39

Left side is engine loom side. Press the raised far left area.

Doesn't hurt to use some WD40 because they attract a lot of grit low down in the engine bay.

Post by **scot850** » 21 May 2015, 23:53

Mike knows how much I cursed when I tried to remove that connector on my car. Eventually tearing off half of my thumb-nail in the process. Use plenty of either silicon spray or WD40. You have to push down on the tab in the middle between the 2 fingers in the picture to release the tab. With dirt, heat and time the connector becomes a devil to undo. Just work on it with time and patience. I used 2 pairs of adjustable pliers to give me more grip.

The 2 rods in the starter motor if you undo them will allow the starter motor to separate and come apart. I gave myself some room and just loosened the 2 main starter mounting bolts enough to allow it to move enough to let the wire come out from behind the motor.

Neil.

Post by **E Showell** » 22 May 2015, 06:24

The connector is a bear. I just kept pulling harder. Does a job on the hands, I will say.