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1998 v70 Accessory Connector 24/35 under dash

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
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MrAl
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1998 v70 Accessory Connector 24/35 under dash

Post by MrAl » Thu Apr 23, 2015 10:44 am

Hello there,

I was advised a while back to look for the accessory connector on this 1998 v70 under the dash, but looked under the panel on the drivers side and cant find it.

Unfortunately, the drawing in the manual is very very vague, and of almost no help.
It looks as though it is on the drivers side so i looked there first, but to no avail.

Does anyone know exactly where this is, and maybe an actual photograph of the connector rather than a very vague drawing?

Is it even possible that not all cars had that?

Thanks a lot.


I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
1998 v70 on the road since April 2nd, 2015

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Re: 1998 v70 Can Not Find Accessory Connector

Post by Ben850 » Thu Apr 23, 2015 11:00 am

If you mean the OBD II connection, it is under the arrest in the console. there is a small plastic cover that pulls off. It says OBD II.


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Re: 1998 v70 Can Not Find Accessory Connector

Post by 850 LPT » Thu Apr 23, 2015 11:18 am

I don't have a photo, but the accessory connector is yellow and attached with a white clip.
It's an 8 contact connector with 5 or 6 spaces occupied and it is located on left side of the steering column.

Hope this helps


96' 850 sedan, base, auto, pewter/charcoal, 111k miles
99' S70, base, 5-speed manual, nautic blue/ tan, 213k miles
04' V70, auto, ash gold/ tan, 225k miles, daughters car
05' V70, 5-speed manual, loaded, mistral green/ tan, 146k miles
79' Ford Capri S, Euro Spec 2.8 V6, T9 5-speed manual
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Re: 1998 v70 Can Not Find Accessory Connector

Post by erikv11 » Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:11 pm

I concur. Driver's side, attached by a clip to the main connector block, closer to the outside of the car, like directly underneath the temperature gauge in the dash. Sometimes it is tucked away somewhere.
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Re: 1998 v70 Can Not Find Accessory Connector

Post by 850 LPT » Thu Apr 23, 2015 1:10 pm

Not to hijack this post, but I'm looking for a pos lead that turns on and off with the ignition (Pos. II). I don't think this connecter has one. I want to connect my driving lights to that.

Does anyone have an idea where to hook into?


96' 850 sedan, base, auto, pewter/charcoal, 111k miles
99' S70, base, 5-speed manual, nautic blue/ tan, 213k miles
04' V70, auto, ash gold/ tan, 225k miles, daughters car
05' V70, 5-speed manual, loaded, mistral green/ tan, 146k miles
79' Ford Capri S, Euro Spec 2.8 V6, T9 5-speed manual
58' Porsche Diesel Junior
13' Honda Odyssey :oops:

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Re: 1998 v70 Can Not Find Accessory Connector

Post by MrAl » Thu Apr 23, 2015 5:27 pm

Hi,

Wow thanks very much guys, and i dont know what to say about those incredibly nice pictures which pretty much says it all! Thanks so much. I'll take another look under the dash tomorrow when i go back out there.

As far as the connection that turns on and off with the ignition switch, i dont know if this is optimum but both cigar lighter jacks turn on and off with the ignition key, and that was actually what i DID NOT want :-)
If you dont need the connection inside the interior of the car, the fuses for the two cigar lighters are easy to find in the fuse box with the large number of fuses in it. That might help you find the wire to tap into, in case you cant find anything else. Of course the lights will take some current so you'll have to watch out how much you draw from that line. The fuses are normally rated at 15 amps, and that means that the wiring to and from those fuses are designed for 15 amps but no more too.
I hope this helps, if you cant find any other solution.


I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
1998 v70 on the road since April 2nd, 2015

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Re: 1998 v70 Can Not Find Accessory Connector

Post by 850 LPT » Thu Apr 23, 2015 7:44 pm

Yeah, erikv11 is always super quick with posting photos, I don't know how he does it :shock:

I know about the cigarette lighters, that's actually where I tapped into for my DRL's (and other stuff too).

But that means I have to actually turn them off when I turn the engine off but want to listen to the radio. Otherwise they are still on in the Aux. position (Key Pos. 1) and will drain the battery. Plus, I have to remember to turn them back on again, which is a pain.
It would be much better if they turned of with the engine (Key Pos. 2). I wonder if I can tap into the headlight switch?


96' 850 sedan, base, auto, pewter/charcoal, 111k miles
99' S70, base, 5-speed manual, nautic blue/ tan, 213k miles
04' V70, auto, ash gold/ tan, 225k miles, daughters car
05' V70, 5-speed manual, loaded, mistral green/ tan, 146k miles
79' Ford Capri S, Euro Spec 2.8 V6, T9 5-speed manual
58' Porsche Diesel Junior
13' Honda Odyssey :oops:

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Re: 1998 v70 Can Not Find Accessory Connector

Post by MrAl » Fri Apr 24, 2015 4:19 pm

Hello again,

I see what you mean about the possible modes of operation and you are certainly right that there should be a better way to do it.

Being involved with electrical engineering for some 30 or more years now (yikes) i can say that it should be possible, but depending on the current requirements of the lights it may not be a good idea to wire them directly to the lights but rather use a relay and wire the coil to the lights and use the relay contacts to switch the lights themselves. For example, if the headlights draw 29 amps each and the circuit is for 60 amps then that only leaves 2 amps left for something else, assuming we could really get away with that. We dont want to max out the current capability anyway though because that circuit would have been designed specifically for that headlight load with some overhead margin for error, and so we dont want to take up the slack and risk overload during some environmental extreme. Adding a new circuit and using a relay will allow the extra current without any problem, depending on the new lights current draw.
But the relay coils are typically pretty low current and you could test that before you install. The relay also puts the switch electrically tighter into the circuit so the new lights dont suffer from unnecessary voltage drops (contacts can be place close to the power source for example while a driver operated switch would have to be much farther away).


I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
1998 v70 on the road since April 2nd, 2015

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Re: 1998 v70 Can Not Find Accessory Connector

Post by MrAl » Fri Apr 24, 2015 11:06 pm

Hi,

I should have a wiring diagram soon if you can wait till then i'll check it out to see what might be done. If everything goes as planned, i should have it by next Friday. Unless of course someone knows of one online we could look at.


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1998 v70 on the road since April 2nd, 2015

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Re: 1998 v70 Can Not Find Accessory Connector

Post by MrAl » Sat Apr 25, 2015 3:49 pm

Hello again,

I was surprised to get the wiring diagram just a couple hours ago, ahead of schedule.

I see that fuses 21 and 22 are for the left and right low beams, and these fuses will not be active when the low beam headlamp turns off, so anything connected to them will turn off when the low beams turn off, and turn on when the low beams turn on. I would think that when the high beams are turned on the low beams stay on too, but you could wire up a small bulb to find out, or try to view the low beam inside the actual headlight bulb.

These fuses are rated for 15 amps each and i bet the headlamps take a significant amount of that current (havent measure that yet, if i can even get to it of course). But a relay coil would not take too much current so should not blow the fuse. A new set of lights however could easily blow the fuse(s), depending on the current draw of the new lamps. If you post the current draw or the model of the lamps we could figure out what might be done. If they draw 1 amp or less the chances are good that you would not need a relay, but if more i would feel much more comfortable with a relay, especially if they take 5 or 10 amps or more. And an added inline fuse would help too, in line with the relay contacts, to protect the wiring from overload should something go wrong (ie no melted wires).
They sell general purpose relays on various auto parts sites you might check there, or check out an electronics parts site which will carry all kinds of relays. The coil you need is 12 volts, and the contact rating should be twice the current draw of the new lamps for good safety margin. If that is too expensive for both lights, then maybe two relays one for each light.

I hope this helps, and good luck with it.

Note i didnt think you wanted to dig into the wiring itself so i suggested using the fuse itself and making a little connection to the bottom prong of one side of the fuse (the side that connects to the headlamp if possible). This is usually done with a thin piece of copper strip that folds around the fuse prong before it is plugged in, and then the wire is connected to the copper strip (soldered). The wire to the relay coil only has to be AWG 22 or better, but the wiring to the contacts has to handle more current so 16 gauge or better most likely, but if you can find out the current draw of your new lamps we can figure this size out for sure.
They also make fuse adapters that allow hooking wires up the fuses, but i dont remember where i saw them a long time ago.


I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
1998 v70 on the road since April 2nd, 2015

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