2000 v70 replacement head compatability

[zlrig]

Hi Everyone!
Well I picked up a 2000 V70XC ES AWD for $475. A little ratty, but since I will be doing the work maybe worth it?
Well it is one thing after another as always! It has a burnt exhaust valve accompanied by a nice size hole alongside the valve seat. Long story short, I need a replacement head.
Thought I found one for $125 with 175K on it, only to find the engine in the car has been changed!
I noticed the "R" on the plastic valve cover and started doing some research. Come to find out the engine family should be a 5244T, but is in fact a B5234T! CRAP!!!!
So I am wondering what my options are as far a head interchangeability?
What could this engine have come from (B5234T)?
The body has no rust and is not bad enough to write off yet,but I am wondering how far to go!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
I am new to these newer Volvo's ( although I had a 240 (a great tank) and a 260 (that engine was a piece of@#$% ) )
Thanks JB

[Ozark Lee]

The head should be the same between the 5244T and the 5234T but there were some changes specific to the 2000 model and I am not real sure how it impacts the interchangeability. Specifically I believe the 2000 had solid lifters and the earlier models have hydraulic lifters. For 2000 the CVVT was still on the exhaust cam only for the turbo cars.

What year was the 5234T head?

Mike has quite a bit of experience with this generation of engines and specifically mixing and matching pieces between them so either Mike or Jimmy57 can likely give you the definitive answer.

...Lee

[precopster]

As far as I know the heads are good to swap if the same year and both should be turbo heads. In fact you could put in a 1999 head with hydraulic lifters if you can score the lifters as well. The cam sensors are shared.

Just be sure the replacement has CVVT on the exhaust side. If you get a non turbo 2000 head it will have CVVT on intake side which is no good for you.

The solid lifter heads can be identified by having 4 torx bolts near each plug hole as well as all the 10mm retianing bolts (42 of them)

[zlrig]

Mike, Lee
Thanks for the quick replies!
OK, I did some research and I am hoping it is correct!
I have located a head from a 2002 S60 with an engine B5234T, same as what is in the car. Of course the engine in the car is not correct for the car (2000 V70XC) as I have said. But it is the same engine family and I am assuming the 23 in the family designation B5234 stands for 2.3Litre.
The head (A) from the one engine in the car has I guess hydr. lifters. There are rubber seal like things on the underside and some of them have a spring action ( maybe the good ones?).
The head (B) I found has solid lifters with no seal thingy under them. I want to use this complete head on the engine. I am assuming I am right in identifying them!
The Hydr. ones also have oil fed holes in the head, that feed the lifter bores and the solid ones do not from what I can see. Correct me if I am wrong please!
Ok, so my ultimate question is, will head (B) with the solid lifters replace head (A) with the hydr. lifters?
I found the cam lift to also be different between the solid and hydr. lifter styles. I am hoping and thinking as long as I change the complete head it will not be a problem.
Hopefully I did not totally confuse you!
Thanks for the help and if any clarification is needed please let me know!
John B.

I included a picture of the burnt exh valve. Nice hole huh!

[zlrig]

Oh,
The VVT is on the exhaust side only. The one has no spring return in the cam VVT sprocket and the newer one does not. Any problems with which one I use?
Thanks, JB

[precopster]

If they share the head gasket then all the oil feeds wil work properly.

I haven't heard of any issues with going solid to hydraulic and vice versa on 99 plus turbos.

[zlrig]

Mike,
I did some comparing today with the old head gasket and newer good head. All looks OK.
I pulled the valves out also and for 175K miles on the replacement head, it looks good. No oil leaking past the valve stems and It looks like I can get away with lapping the valves. Only a few seeped cleaning fluid when I put it in the intake and exhaust ports.
I am a little bummed about the amount of coking I see in this engine.
What is with these hot running Volvo's anyway? I realize the turbo generates quite a bit of heat, but wow! For those of you reading this, does long term synthetic oil use keep the coking at bay?
The 264 with the Peugeot engine was a real bad coker! It would eventually loose cam lift after the dry rockers ate into the cam lobes. Quite a sight to see. Looked like the cams were put on a lathe!
Thanks for the advice and help!
One more thing, can some one explain the engine family"T" identifer and where it can be found. for example; T3 T5 etc.
Thanks!

[precopster]

Regular use of fuel system cleaner would also help the cleanliness factor in the ports areas and in the chambers.

Are you asking where the engine number is stamped?

[Ozark Lee]

As I look at the picture I'm not so sure you can't just lap in a new valve. The seat itself doesn't look that bad but it has some of the carbon burnt away from the top of the chamber around it. You can obviously see more than with it in front of you than I can with a picture.

I would be inclined to run it by a machine shop and get an opinion. Fixing the old head is less brain damage than getting another used head that really would need a once over by the machine shop anyway.

...Lee

[zlrig]

I have a better picture of the burnt valve below.
As you can see, it burned into the head itself. What you can't see due to my bad photography, is that the hole in the head is larger than the one on the valve. It goes right around the seat and into the port.
Yes, it could be repaired by a competent shop. But I found another head for $150 and I am sure the repair would be somewhat more.

Also, I have found the engine number no problem.
Just curious what the digit (3,5,etc.) after the "T" on the engine number is designating? And is it just a model year thing possibly?
Thanks