98 S70 T5 Turbo Drain Pipe Seal

[mecheng]

I've always noticed a bit of oil coming off the turbo and the car doesn't seem to lose much oil. Next time I am under the car I will have a closer look at the source but I came accross the Turbo Drain Pipe Seal being a common problem.

Has anybody experienced this pipe leaking and is it as easy to replace as this IPD guide shows?

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5352/111 ... e-seal-kit

[Ozark Lee]

It is a known leaker and the gasket and O ring isn't impossible to change but it isn't a picnic either.

I don't have one but the IPD swivel socket likely would make it easier. You can''t really get a straight shot onto the allen screws with a standard hex socket. Once the screws are removed the pipe just slides back and out. About half the time the O ring comes with the pipe but if it doesn't you need to fashion a hook to yank it out.

...Lee

[jreed]

I agree with all of the above... just wanted to add that the last time I did the job three years ago I used a ball-end hex key (I think it was a 5mm) to help make loosening the bolts easier. I used o-rings from IPD. It may not have been necessary, but I also put a little "Ultra Black" oil-resistant RTV on the o-ring and pipe to help keep it sealed. So far, so good.

[mecheng]

Thanks guys. What about using a universal joint on the 5mm bolt?

[Ozark Lee]

The problem with using a swivel joint with a hex socket is the depth of the combination of the two. The IPD (and I think Harbor Freight makes the same thing) socket has the swivel nearer to the end so that you can sneak it into the head. The ball type allen sockets seem to work OK as well since you can get them into head without actually having to get a straight shot at the bolt.

...Lee

[mecheng]

I just completed this on both my 850 and S70. The gasket was rock hard-brittle and you can tell it was leaking from both ends. So long to an oily pan and turbo; hopefully!

Overall, it was not hard but as always there are some tricks not mentioned in the guide, here they are to help the next DIY guy or gal:

1)I used a 5mm allen socket to apply more torque, a simple allen key can be too mickey mouse to loosen the bolts or will hurt your fingers. Torque rules here.

2)One screw you have direct access, the other screw you do not so I used a UV joint. First, install the allen socket. Ensure it is seated properly by taping it lightly with a brass/nylon hammer. Once the socket is connected snug to the screw, connect the UV joint, extension and ratchet. It should come off easily. I used some penetrating oil to help.

3)The gasket will probably remain stuck, like on both of my cars. Apply some electrical tape to the end of a screw driver and use it to free the gasket, don't use too much force or a naked screw driver as the surface mares easily.

4)For my S70, I was able to remove the line but on my 850 I had to slightly loosen the 17mm Turbo coolant line, but only slightly. It was maybe half a turn and only a table spoon of coolant leaked out. Once it is removed, tighten the bolt by hand until you re-install the drain line. During re-installation, again loosen the bolt only enough to get the drain line installed, you do not need to drain the coolant but be careful it could be hot and you are in the direct path.

5)If the o-ring is stuck inside the engine, use a pick to free it. One car it stuck, the other it did not.

6)Ensure you get the revised gasket PN: 31251456, it has a extra feature to grab onto so you can position it. The PN for the o-ring is 31251439

7)lubricate both seals before installing and remember to use anti-seize for all fasteners.

*Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any personal or material injury, including getting burned by hot coolant, be smart and safety first.