1998 xc-70 turbo return o-ring
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Clockboy
- Posts: 105
- Joined: 13 Jan 2015, 21:24
- Year and Model: 05 xc70, v70 2.5t 06
- Location: New york
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 1 time
Well I started the process of replacing the gasket and o-ring for the turbo lower return line and ran into an o-ring issue. Got the old part out with little problems thanks to all the write-ups within the forum. Unfortunately I could not get the tube back in. It was always off by 1/2 hole at the flange below the turbo. I tried 5 or 6 times which accumulated into 3 hours until I started thinking about loosening the turbo. I decided to stop and ask my indy mechanic. I explained the problem and he said if it was there before it should go back and asked which oring I was using. I had gotten it from fcp and had noticed right away that it was the wrong color and was dimensionally slightly off. I had attributed this to an old ring, but I'm not so sure now. I'm going to get one from volvo and see if I have better luck. Hopefully this is it and the old adage 'only put volvo seals and orings back in' will have been proved again. Some of us just take longer to internalize it.
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Ozark Lee
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14798
- Joined: 07 Sep 2006, 08:24
- Year and Model: Many Volvos
- Location: USA Midwest
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Did the old one come out with the pipe? It is a 50/50 proposition as to whether they come out with the pipe or not.
...Lee
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
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Clockboy
- Posts: 105
- Joined: 13 Jan 2015, 21:24
- Year and Model: 05 xc70, v70 2.5t 06
- Location: New york
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 1 time
The old one did come out. When I took it off the pipe it cracked in half. When I put the pipe into the hole it would drop down almost to the lip on the pipe, but not flush. I also noticed a difference in the width of the orings. The width of the new black ring was slightly thicker, but I had attributed this to the orange ring being compressed for 17 years. Time will tell.
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Clockboy
- Posts: 105
- Joined: 13 Jan 2015, 21:24
- Year and Model: 05 xc70, v70 2.5t 06
- Location: New york
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 1 time
Stopped by volvo this morning and got 2 o-rings and the gasket. I had the gasket from FCP, but I was at the parts counter and wanted to avoid any additional issues with a bad gasket. I took a picture of the two o-rings together.
The volvo one was definitely not as thick and the edges are rounded. The volvo gasket has an elongated side that allows you to position it even when it is seated between the flange and turbo, but on my car the turbo coolant hose was just enough in the way as to push up against that elongated end and the gasket was slightly out of alignment. I ended up clipping part of the gasket away and it worked fine. When I got the tube in the hole and positioned it against the turbo it was off by about 1/2 a hole again. I checked at the bottom and could see it was not completely seated. I took a screwdriver, put it against the flange edge up top and tapped with a hammer so the holes aligned and at that point the bottom just dropped down and was perfect. I had tried this with the other o-ring and it just would not move. There was just no other way as my hands would not fit in the small crevices and gain enough purchase on the tube to force it down. Some things that were helpful:
1. I did everything from below. Took the wheel off to see the bottom of the tube and came from the top to clean out the hole, but everything else was done from the ground with the help of my son's camping mattress.
2. Did not have to touch the turbo.
3. I used two 6 inch 1/4 in. extensions with a 1/4 inch swivel socket and short 5mm hex bit for the screws and a 10mm swivel socket for the clamp. I also used a 3/8 ratchet with a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter. This was needed to break the tube and clamp bolts loose. I just could not get enough torque with the 1/4 ratchet. I also wrapped the hinge of the socket with some electrical tape to stiffen it up and keep it from flopping around.
If I were to do it again I think it is about a 3 hour job for me. The volvo parts made a big difference and just knowing where everything is and the best positions to attack each part would make a huge difference. Whether I remember any of this for the next time is the big question.
The volvo one was definitely not as thick and the edges are rounded. The volvo gasket has an elongated side that allows you to position it even when it is seated between the flange and turbo, but on my car the turbo coolant hose was just enough in the way as to push up against that elongated end and the gasket was slightly out of alignment. I ended up clipping part of the gasket away and it worked fine. When I got the tube in the hole and positioned it against the turbo it was off by about 1/2 a hole again. I checked at the bottom and could see it was not completely seated. I took a screwdriver, put it against the flange edge up top and tapped with a hammer so the holes aligned and at that point the bottom just dropped down and was perfect. I had tried this with the other o-ring and it just would not move. There was just no other way as my hands would not fit in the small crevices and gain enough purchase on the tube to force it down. Some things that were helpful:
1. I did everything from below. Took the wheel off to see the bottom of the tube and came from the top to clean out the hole, but everything else was done from the ground with the help of my son's camping mattress.
2. Did not have to touch the turbo.
3. I used two 6 inch 1/4 in. extensions with a 1/4 inch swivel socket and short 5mm hex bit for the screws and a 10mm swivel socket for the clamp. I also used a 3/8 ratchet with a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter. This was needed to break the tube and clamp bolts loose. I just could not get enough torque with the 1/4 ratchet. I also wrapped the hinge of the socket with some electrical tape to stiffen it up and keep it from flopping around.
If I were to do it again I think it is about a 3 hour job for me. The volvo parts made a big difference and just knowing where everything is and the best positions to attack each part would make a huge difference. Whether I remember any of this for the next time is the big question.
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